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Did Schott buy Shinki? Another Shinki STYLE: P617H

MattieXMoto

A-List Customer
Messages
309
Location
NYC
Came out this week...
Japanese Shinki Horsehide Perfecto Jacket
STYLE: P617H

Overview
Imagine for a moment, the tingly sensation you get when running your hands through sculpting clay. The finishing process makes this Shinki leather feel soft and malleable from the moment you try it on. The combination of oils and waxes in the leather allow it to hold its own shape while being ready to mold to your body. From the first wear, it feels like it's already broken in.

  • 25" Back Length
  • Vegetable Tanned Shinki-Hikaku Teacore Horsehide
  • Clean Front with no Belt or Coin Pocket
  • Hidden Snaps Under Lapel and Collar
  • Sleeve Gussets
  • Inside Chest Pocket
  • Deadstock Glenplaid Wool Lining
  • Bi-Swing Back
  • Kidney Lower Back with Belt Channel
  • U.S.A.
 

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Tom71

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Yeah, saw that. Not a bad looking jacket at first glance. TFL will be happy to note that back-lenght is less than 25" for the size "L", so a step back from the elongated cuts of the past two years or so.

Unfortunately no fit-pictures, so it´s a bit hard to judge.
 

MattieXMoto

A-List Customer
Messages
309
Location
NYC
Schott posted fit pics
5 ft 9 180 lbs size medium.
 

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Aloysius

I'll Lock Up
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4,109
Yeah, saw that. Not a bad looking jacket at first glance. TFL will be happy to note that back-lenght is less than 25" for the size "L", so a step back from the elongated cuts of the past two years or so.

Unfortunately no fit-pictures, so it´s a bit hard to judge.

Seems to be using the Sears Allstate and Hercules inspired pattern they did earlier this year as an homage to the vintage Hercules in the Bikeriders film, except with a three pocket layout.
 

Canuck Panda

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4,790
The overall fit looks very similar to the current length 613/618. Very nice. I always wondered why they didn't use the 613/618 fit more often on other models, this may be it for me.
 

Tom71

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Just saw that. Not overly impressed, sadly. Not a flattering silhouette at all, IMO. Also, looks surprisingly long on the fellow. I will give this one a pass…
 

Aloysius

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4,109
They actually do make the 613 in Shinki, but only in Japan, and it isn't the really bad old Schott Japan pattern, although unfortunately the bicep area is still slimmed so it limits movement. The product number is 613SJH.

That said, I actually prefer the black Italian horsehide to the Shinki on Perfectos, comparing both while broken in.
 

MattieXMoto

A-List Customer
Messages
309
Location
NYC
They actually do make the 613 in Shinki, but only in Japan, and it isn't the really bad old Schott Japan pattern, although unfortunately the bicep area is still slimmed so it limits movement. The product number is 613SJH.

That said, I actually prefer the black Italian horsehide to the Shinki on Perfectos, comparing both while broken in.
Might go check it out at the at store. But at almost $2k I am thinking why not get the RMC or order the Field Leathers Manhattan
 

Aloysius

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4,109
Might go check it out at the at store. But at almost $2k I am thinking why not get the RMC or order the Field Leathers Manhattan

Schott has better patterns than RMC and Field, for a start. But like I said instead of this I'd get the Italian horsehide in the 613SH or 618HH. (Yes, even if I was given all five options at the same price.)
 

Aloysius

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4,109
Yes and no. The RMC J-24 currently sells for EUR 3.300 in Germany (ca. USD 3.500).
Seriously no idea what happened there. I seem to remember it has been 30% less only one year ago.

I can second this. I remember looking at it on a German seller’s site a year ago for less than 2/3 that, since they were the only dealer outside Japan with it in the black chrome tan option. I passed because that was only in the old pattern.
 

Canuck Panda

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4,790
1700 dollars is a bit steep but they will eventually show up used for a lot less. And I also remember seeing screen shots of the last Schott factory sale, the special MOH and SJH jackets went for about 1,100 dollars if I remember correctly, which I think is more than fair.

618/613 in current 25" length (it's actually more 24.75" in reality because of the metric conversion) is about as good as it can get for pattern goes. It's got the 4" V taper from chest to hem, very flattering fit. So 23" P2P has 21" hem. I've seen the same jacket fit on different shaped guys and they all look better than the fashion cuts. The current RMC Buco-J24 (BJ21101) is 23" P2P and 22" hem, one of the older versions I believe has the 4" drop but bigger size are hard to find.

Anyways, 613/618 current length in Shinki or Horween horsehides would be nice addition to their core line, and not just for overseas retailers or special one offs.

***Edit. This is very exciting... In a perfect scenario for me. A fashion xzips that looks good needs a few things for me. 1, Front drop, like the current J-24, so it can work with both tucked and untucked shirts. 2, Removable belt, like the current J-24, so there is no need to cut off the belts and commit heresy. 3, Nice contouring silhouette, like the current Perfecto 613/618.
J-24 vs Perfecto.jpg
J-24 vs Perfecto back.jpg

I never figured out why the Perfecto insisted on this little panel under the arm on the side until I compared the fit pics of all the xzips I had. Very neat trick to give the wearer more shape, but this feature is missing on their fashion cuts. Their fashion cuts are more or less lengthened version of the tubular J-24 without any action pleats, not the most flattering cuts and only works for untuck shirts because the back is lengthened so much to get that front length.
J-24 vs Perfecto back additional panel design.jpg


So ideally for me a perfect perfecto for fashion would include these things. No such jacket exist off the rack at the moment. But perhaps it can get there eventually. This P617H at least came with the removable belt so there is no need to cut anything off... And maybe on the next one they will do one with front drop and removable belt. Evolution...
 
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MattieXMoto

A-List Customer
Messages
309
Location
NYC
So I went and tried it on. I def lost weight. 15ish pounds in the past yr. So the medium was bigger than Schott 519 medium. The 519 is broken in and fits me like a glove now.

The medium Shinki was just too baggy from the getgo. It would never break into my shape. The sleeves were too long too.

The small fit a little tighter than my 519 medium did when new. But I have no doubt it too would break in nicely. The sleeves are perfect. The back was pulling as you can see in the photos. But I bet 2weeks and that would be looser.

I am passing on it. Lovely dress up version but @Aloysius was right. The 613sh in size 40 was NIICE!!! fit me even better than my 519 in medium. FYI it is for Sale here: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/fs-schott-519-medium.116945/

I may look for a pristine 613sh in size 40.

I swung by S&S and the 40 J-24 is now too loose after dropping weight. I would now need a 38 in that. But still a 40 on the 613SH.

Size medium
 

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MattieXMoto

A-List Customer
Messages
309
Location
NYC
Size small
For reference
I am 5 ft 8 150 lbs
39 chest
Size 33 waist
cafecto 40
519 medium

Hope this helped online shoppers.

My pick would be size small and break in if you forced me to buy. But the 613SH was a better value and fit for my frame.
 

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Aloysius

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4,109
I am passing on it. Lovely dress up version but @Aloysius was right. The 613sh in size 40 was NIICE!!! fit me even better than my 519 in medium. FYI it is for Sale here: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/fs-schott-519-medium.116945/

I may look for a pristine 613sh in size 40.

Also check out the 618HH, which has changed to use a thicker version of the hide, more like the 613SH. However the pattern seems to have been redone because I could not fit into it in 42, when my 613SH is 42. Might just be a matter of break in, so should I decide to get it I'd have to decide between that and 44. But really my 613SH covers the bases.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,420
Size small
For reference
I am 5 ft 8 150 lbs
39 chest
Size 33 waist
cafecto 40
519 medium

Hope this helped online shoppers.

My pick would be size small and break in if you forced me to buy. But the 613SH was a better value and fit for my frame.
Thanks for sharing these fit pics. It's not a bad looking jacket by any means, but it doesn't stand out either. I'm with @Aloysius , I'd go for that 613SH.
 

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