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Diamond Clothing Buco J100 review.

nick123

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,371
Location
California
Again, it's just a lovely, lovely jacket in my eyes, despite whatever imperfections are present. I hope you enjoy it. (That Shinki closeup is currently my phone wallpaper btw)...what a creep Nick.
 
Messages
10,181
Location
Pasadena, CA
If you actually look at WWII era jackets, you'll see even the ones worn by some Generals had wonky stitching, etc. They were assembly line jackets. A modern high-end repop is probably 10x nicer than anything that rolled off the lines in 1940. This is to offer something more inline with that era.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,081
Location
London, UK
In re Combat Clones at Good Wear - Go to this link. Scroll down until you see Combat Clone jackets. There are 10 examples.

http://www.goodwearleather.com/photos/

Ah! Thanks, yes, I see what it's about...

Since my interest in leather jackets is directly tied to my vintage/WW2 aviation hobby, this Combat Clone look is my ideal look/style of a leather jacket/A-2 jacket...

Some of the CC jackets are looking VERY convincingly like 70 year old originals (and I have owned many originals over the years)

Yeah, I get that. I've seen quite a few of John's jackets that realy are indistinguishable from the real thing. I agree, it's about what different folks want...

Interesting, though, that you mention the difference in aging. I've seen that in guitarworld too. There are a lot of folks therec who will buy a guitar purposefully beaten up as new because they want one that looks immediately like a seventy-year old guitar, while others want one with old-style finish which starts looking new, but wears much fastwer than modern finishes. As ever, a market for everything...

My horse ELC broke in very quickly. The Aero, which I wear far more anyhow (should really get around to selling the ELC, I just don't wear it), has stayed much 'tidier' looking, though it's goat. Of the originals I've seen, the goat does seem to stay 'unmarked' to a much greater degree than the horse.

The combat clone is not just about the ageing the leather, but also include the imperfect swing, uneven cut etc.
View attachment 34700

Ah, yes... That's definitely a new marketing angle I've not seen anywhere else.

+1
What's the point of this? I mean, if I really wanted such extreme accuracy, I'd buy a vintage A2. Repros are great but that combat clone stuff is entering cosplay territories.

I'd say it will appeal to the A2 hardcore that either want a jacket that's identical to their prized originals but which they can wear out without the same worry, and/or in a size which they can wear (bearing in mind that most of us in this 'jacket hobby' are probably too big for most surviving originals...).

If you actually look at WWII era jackets, you'll see even the ones worn by some Generals had wonky stitching, etc. They were assembly line jackets. A modern high-end repop is probably 10x nicer than anything that rolled off the lines in 1940. This is to offer something more inline with that era.

It was logical somebody would do this eventually, I suppose - given how many conversations we've all had over the years about the differences in quality expected of a premium, custom jacket as compared to the way the originals were churned off a production line to be worn by kids who had much worse to worry about that a few untidy stitches. As you say, it's another option for those that want it, while the more polished style is also available for those of us who prefer something else. Never hurts to have more choice.

It would be fascinating to see the process of cloning a very specific, individual original jacket... though I suspect some original quirks like misaligned pockets are details that most would rather pass on. ;)
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
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6,868
Location
East Java
but those generals were wearing their wonky jacket while pondering the battle map, trying to find weakness in enemy line... while Today's leather jacket aficionados are wearing one of their many jackets while pondering upon their newly bought jacket, trying to find wonkiness and uneven lines. :D

both feel rather similar feeling perhaps and higher heartbeat rate than normal.
 
Messages
10,181
Location
Pasadena, CA
I can see reenactors and others (film) looking for a more less-perfect jacket at times.
It's not like JC is trying to pass off one of his regular jackets with bad stitching this way - it's a sub-lineup with intentional "character".

And Edward, yes, my son went nuts when he saw Fender do a Joe Strummer remake - wear and all. Even at 15, he was p*ssed off! That to me really does ride a fine line between poser and musician. What's the difference? Dunno. Me brain I guess.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,081
Location
London, UK
Ha, I'm not big on the Relic line, but I'd have bought one of those like a shot, had they but done a lefty. Uncle Joe remains probably the only man I'd even consider following into battle.
 

CBI

One Too Many
Messages
1,419
Location
USA
In regards the guitars, at least a poser gets his due if he gets asked to play it!
 

el_gato

Familiar Face
Messages
55
Location
Europe
I like relic'ed guitars, first dent/scratch won't hurt as much as with a brand spanking new looking guitar. :D
 

Cyber Lip

Practically Family
Messages
782
Location
Seattle
Ha, I'm not big on the Relic line, but I'd have bought one of those like a shot, had they but done a lefty. Uncle Joe remains probably the only man I'd even consider following into battle.

I saw one in a shop. They're really cheesy in person. The relicing/wear was super artificial and fake looking. It didn't look like an actual painted finish that had been relic'd but looked more like some sort of silkscreen or decal or something
 
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Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,081
Location
London, UK
I saw one in a shop. They're really cheesy in person. The relicing/wear was super artificial and fake looking. It didn't look like an actual painted finish that had been relic'd but looked more like some sort of silkscreen or decal or something

I think there have been a couple of variations on this one. The main line was done at the Meixcan plant, under the 'roadworn' label. These can be very nice, but they are definitely much more uniform (and so a bit less convincing) than you get from the US custom shop. (Hell of a price difference, of course!).
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,081
Location
London, UK
Squier Classic Vibe. Great broke man's guitar. Now I need a '63 reverb unit....

Yes, lovely stuff. Squier are often too good for Fender's own comfort, imo.... mind you, the best of the Squiers are also far closer to Leo's original vision than anything Fender have ever done.
 

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,422
Seeing this jacket is a bit disappointing to me to be honest. I have a DD jacket, and while it isn't as perfect as an RMC, it doesn't seem to have the problems that Carlos' has which is strange because mine was made at least a year before his was! I could show pics to prove it, but my jacket's lining looks far closer to the RMC shown than Carlos' DD. I am no expert and this is the only leather jacket I have owned. However, I will say that MY jacket was worth what I paid for it absolutely. I paid around $950 for a perfect fitting shinki leather jacket of excellent quality. The stitching is not perfect, but it is definitely excellent and the fit couldn't be better. I don't fit into an RMC jacket properly at all so I would have to either pay almost $2300 for a Himel (can't afford that and not sure I would pay that much if I could) or wait two years for a JC jacket. I went with Dave and I am pretty satisfied to say the least.

Do I wish the finishing was just a little bit tighter? Yes. I do. Do I necessarily wish it was as perfect as an RMC? Not really. I honestly go back and forth on my jacket a bit. I love it, but at times I wish the finishing was just a bit better. On the other hand, I have yet to see an RMC jacket in person or on the internet that is actually truly perfect. I think actual perfection in jacket making is impossible, even for the Japanese. However, even I would've noticed the lining on Carlos' jacket and would probably have said something.

Again, I can post pics if you guys want to analyze and compare mine. Like I said, I'm not really an expert. My jacket would be perfect if it was just a little bit better finished, but honestly there are no better options right now unless you're willing to wait for a Chapman jacket. If only there were as many great leather jacket makers as there are great shoe makers... if only Aero were as good and as well priced for jackets as Carmina is for shoes/boots:D
 

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,422
What do you mean by better finished? I love your jacket, it's awesome.

I mean it isn't as well stitched as it could be. It is done VERY well, just slightly not as well as it could be in my opinion. Certainly better than Carlos' jacket which isn't an attack on him, more of a comment that I am disappointed. Carlos' should be BETTER than mine.
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,944
Location
London
Seeing this jacket is a bit disappointing to me to be honest. I have a DD jacket, and while it isn't as perfect as an RMC, it doesn't seem to have the problems that Carlos' has which is strange because mine was made at least a year before his was! I could show pics to prove it, but my jacket's lining looks far closer to the RMC shown than Carlos' DD. I am no expert and this is the only leather jacket I have owned. However, I will say that MY jacket was worth what I paid for it absolutely. I paid around $950 for a perfect fitting shinki leather jacket of excellent quality. The stitching is not perfect, but it is definitely excellent and the fit couldn't be better. I don't fit into an RMC jacket properly at all so I would have to either pay almost $2300 for a Himel (can't afford that and not sure I would pay that much if I could) or wait two years for a JC jacket. I went with Dave and I am pretty satisfied to say the least.

Do I wish the finishing was just a little bit tighter? Yes. I do. Do I necessarily wish it was as perfect as an RMC? Not really. I honestly go back and forth on my jacket a bit. I love it, but at times I wish the finishing was just a bit better. On the other hand, I have yet to see an RMC jacket in person or on the internet that is actually truly perfect. I think actual perfection in jacket making is impossible, even for the Japanese. However, even I would've noticed the lining on Carlos' jacket and would probably have said something.

Again, I can post pics if you guys want to analyze and compare mine. Like I said, I'm not really an expert. My jacket would be perfect if it was just a little bit better finished, but honestly there are no better options right now unless you're willing to wait for a Chapman jacket. If only there were as many great leather jacket makers as there are great shoe makers... if only Aero were as good and as well priced for jackets as Carmina is for shoes/boots:D

Honestly, the more i wear the jacket the more irrelevant these problems are.
I have been living in this jacket since it arrived 2 weeks ago, and i love it.
Yes, it's not perfect, but it is breaking in so beautifully i don't even care anymore.

On a side note, i went to the Real McCoy London store today and handled one of their Buco J100!
It was thoroughly underwhelming...
The construction was average, with a LOT of sewing machine scratches where the black top coat was taken off and you could see the brown underneath.
Some pretty wonky/wavy stitching, and a pretty obvious defect at the sleeve, where the lining was badly folded and was hanging out of the sleeve.
The leather was also average, it was reminiscent of the ELMC californian, very matte, very waxy and thin, but without any grain or character, not bad, but nothing special, it reminded me of my steerhide Schott.
I didn't try it on as they only had a size 40.

Considering the RMC went for £300 more than the DD, there is no question in my mind which jacket is the best deal, and even the best jacket. IMO DD wins this.

They also had a few A2s and A1s, they were nice, but not nice enough for their price tags IMO, for the money i would rather have 2 Eastman or 2 Aero jackets.
 
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Bunyip

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,069
Location
Australia
That's great to hear Carlos! Once you mentally take ownership of a jacket, it becomes part of you. Then, it's a great feeling when you see another high end jacket, and you wouldn't swap it for quids! Then the real happiness kicks in. A bit of perspective I guess.... I would always rather deal with a smaller set up like Dave than a bigger company that just does off the rack. Good result I think mate.
 

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