Denim Jackets - New or Vintage

[Sonero]

Sonero,
You might want to check out Ciano Farmer. I have one of his type 3 denim jackets that I ordered in 19oz Japanese selvedge with a wool blanket lining.
View attachment 77792 View attachment 77793
It is a beautifully made jacket and the fit is just about perfect. Ciano has an option that allows you to customize either individual measurements (shoulders, length, etc) or to go entirely with your own measurements when ordering the jacket. There is a fee for each modification of course. I added 1" to the shoulders and 1" to the length and I am very happy with the jacket.
Having recommended Ciano I have one word of caution that I must add, he is very busy and your order will almost certainly take longer than was promised. I waited 17 weeks for my jacket and during that time I spoke to Ciano 3 or 4 times by phone. He has a great energy and enthusiasm, You can tell that he is very into his work and to making sure that his customers are completely satisfied with their clothing (when it finally arrives). If patience is not your strong suit, then this may not be the guy for you. If you don't mind a wait, however, I can almost guarantee you were going to be happy with a Ciano Farmer jacket made for you

I'm down !

I just got off the phone with them and they said a Regular Fit XL is a 52 ! This translates into a XXL in most commercial brands. The guy on the phone was 6" Tall at 250 lbs and he wears an XL in the regular fit.

Will be ordering for sure. I just need to figure out which one.

Can you add anything to the sizing ?

Thanks for the information.

 

[El Marro]

Sonero,
That's awesome, they make great jackets!
Regarding the sizing, I ordered a size large in the regular fit. I asked them to make the shoulders 20.5" wide (+1.5" from the stock pattern) and to add 1" to the length. I am really happy with the fit, it could be a little more trim at the waist but it is a very comfortable jacket to wear.
For reference I am 6'1" and I weigh around 210 lbs, my chest is 45" and I wear 36" waist in Levi's and most other brands of jeans and slacks.
Ciano has a great selection of denim and much of it is not posted on the website. Be sure to ask them to send you some samples, that's how I settled on the 19 oz. that my jacket was made from.
One more bit of advice that I picked up here on the lounge is to call and check in with Ciano from time to time. I think that helps to keep you and your jacket on his mind and that way it will get done sooner rather than later. Plus he is real character and a pleasure to talk to about all things denim related, the man knows his stuff.
I think you're making good call here and I can't wait to see the finished product!

 

[ButteMT61]

^^^ Yes, with Ciano, patience and persistence is a virtue. It's not due to not caring or avoiding, the guy is a master and gets distracted. You just need to be ready to put in some effort, but everything I've seen says it's worth it. He also posts on the http://selvedgestyle.com forums. Good luck.

 

[Sonero]

I ordered a Type 3 in 23 oz Indigo Japanese Selvedge with handmade copper buttons and copper thread.

And since it takes so long to make I added another one.....The Field Jacket in 23oz Black Japanese Selvedge with black stiching and black buttons.

Plus a pair of jeans.

A splurge but no one else to my knowledge makes my size in japaese selvedge. I also have faith in Ciano. He sounds like he knows his stuff. Thanks again for the info.

 

[Edward]

Daniel from Helston responded to my size question. A XXXL is equal to a USA 46-48 chest size.

There it is.

Sounds about standard for Europe.

I would also like to bring the Prison Blues Western Jacket to everyone's attention. 14.75 oz cotton produced by prison inmates in Oregon.

I owned one at one time but gave it away because the sleeves were too long for my chest size that I needed. Fit is wide in the shoulders.

Nice Quality though.

View attachment 77770

These look really well made. I wish they did one in a more Type 1 or 2 pattern. I had some of their jeans a few years ago, great stuff. Compared very well to a lot of brands at several times the price. If they did selvedge too they could make a killing.

The guy on the phone was 6" Tall

Is he one of the Little Children of Stone Enge?

View attachment 77902

Nice design. Looks like a combination of Type 2 and 3; I like the higher handwarmer pockets. Also a fan of the one closed pocket / one open look; has a nice, vintage workear vibe to it, and very practical as well.

 

[El Marro]

I ordered a Type 3 in 23 oz Indigo Japanese Selvedge with handmade copper buttons and copper thread.

And since it takes so long to make I added another one.....The Field Jacket in 23oz Black Japanese Selvedge with black stiching and black buttons.

Plus a pair of jeans.

A splurge but no one else to my knowledge makes my size in japaese selvedge. I also have faith in Ciano. He sounds like he knows his stuff. Thanks again for the info.

View attachment 77902

That sounds like an awesome haul! I have the handmade copper buttons on my type 3 and they are really nice, very heavy and rustic. I might have to follow your lead and order one of those field jackets. I bet the 23 oz. denim will stand up on its own when it's new!

 

[Sonero]

Nice design. Looks like a combination of Type 2 and 3; I like the higher handwarmer pockets. Also a fan of the one closed pocket / one open look; has a nice, vintage workear vibe to it, and very practical as well.

Thanks.

This will be the black denim version with black buttons. I was on the fence whether or not I wanted to purchase a black denim jacket.....too young too racy but my shopping addiction got the best of me. I also think this version in all black will look like something you might see in a high end mens department store like Barney's in NYC. If it comes out the right way I could easily see this look like it runs into the $1000US range.

My other idea was doing this with black denim , copper buttons, and copper thread. I finally decided against it because the design is so intricate as it is the contrasting thread might have distracted from it. All black will make you look harder for the design, then when you see it "pow" that's really unique...WE HOPE.

Ciano said I could always add the copper buttons later if I wanted to.

 

[Trenchfriend]

Woohoo, type IV-jacket is finally invented!!

Great piece!

 

[Trenchfriend]

@Sonero

23oz? I calculated, the jacket probably weighs around 1,3 kilogramm.

 

[Sonero]

@Sonero

23oz? I calculated, the jacket probably weighs around 1,3 kilogramm.

I hope it looks like this !

 

[Atticus Finch]

Yesterday, I went digging in my storage room, looking for this. My old Levi's Trucker with Buffalo Plaid lining. Much warmer than a unlined Trucker.

AF

 

[Trenchfriend]

@Atticus Finch
Man, that's a fantastic piece!!

 

[Atticus Finch]

@Atticus Finch
Man, that's a fantastic piece!!

Thank you! And the great thing is, I've lost a few pounds and it fits me again. I'm looking forward to wearing it this fall.

I don't know much about these jackets. I bought this one used and wore it until I outgrew it. Not even sure what decade it comes from. The 1980s, maybe?

AF

 

[Sonero]

Levis 3XL. New Trucker Sizing.

I haven't washed it yet but I plan on trying the freezer method with this one. I really like it stiff as a board.

 

[Atticus Finch]

I dragged another denim jacket out of storage. It's a Wrangler Wrange Coat from the 'seventies or 'eighties. I have to admit, I've never much liked this coat. Not sure why I bought it. Sure, it's warm and tough. But I don't like how it looks on me. I guess I've never seen myself as the Marlboro Man's more rotund, older brother.

AF

 

[Trenchfriend]

@Atticus Finch
Yeah, more sherpa-jackets! Thanks for showing.

 

[HanauMan]

That Wrangler Wrange coat is a pretty cool item. They were a very popular PX purchase when I was growing up. The young soldiers always wore them when off duty teamed up with boot cut jeans, boots and big hats. That longer style was real popular back then, mid 70s to early 80s. Yours is a nice vintage jacket, I would be happy to own one like it.

 

[Bushman]

Because I now have a full record, I'd thought I'd share this. Times may have changed, but my tastes haven't.

Age 5:

Age 12:

Age 24:

 

[Thuggee]

Mine

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[JVanBro]

View attachment 78574


Yesterday, I went digging in my storage room, looking for this. My old Levi's Trucker with Buffalo Plaid lining. Much warmer than a unlined Trucker.

AF

That's a great jacket!

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