Deadstock

[Paisley]

Check this out from Manolo for the Men:

A macho boutique might sound like a contradiction in terms, but one new shop in New York is trying to do just that. Part haberdasher, part barbershop, Freemans Sporting Club aims to be all things masculine. Whether they’re able to achieve that, Izzy doesn’t yet know, but he is definitely excited by the fact that they are offering suits tailored by the illustrious Martin Greenfield out of deadstock. According to this article about one of the store’s owners:

Durability of material and shape underpins his decision to use vintage deadstock, most of which dates to the ’40s and ’50s. Unlike Super 180s and other popular high-twist wools, FSC’s vintage stock is often only 70 or 90 twist, and, therefore, much stronger. Greenfield’s son, Jay, explains that “most suits today are designed to be made by machine and glued together,” and the fabric is therefore very light. “Because we make it by hand,” he says, “we can use fabric with more body and shape.”

FSC‚Äôs emphasis on durability translates into a crisp, structured suit body that will soften with age, but will always maintain its form. The suits are built around Swiss cotton and black horsehair canvas with black gossamer linings that reveal the basting and other remnants of construction.​

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Yeah, well, the owner's appearance doesn't exactly inspire confidence.

 

[herringbonekid]

i wonder where they found enough 40s and 50s deadstock fabric ?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

"Enough" is a relative concept. They found some, and they'll squeeze the juice out of it by charging insane prices.

.

 

[GateXC]

Having been in the shop, I'd never buy a suit from the guys they have working there. They're all lower east side hipsters who couldn't even tell me what the cut on theirs shirts was when I asked. After that I didn't even bother to hear what they had or didn't have to say about the suits. And for this they charge $2000 a suit. Granted it's a Greenfield suit so it's very well made, but not having staff that has no idea about clothes kinda kills it.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

And for this they charge $2000 a suit.

Like I said ... it's all about squeezing the juice out.

.

 

[Senator Jack]

Stopped in at Duncan Quinn yesterday, GateXC. Can you get me a good price on that red pinstripe?

Regards,

Senator Jack

 

[Matt Deckard]

the red striped one was my pic... awsome... The man in the shop at the time... well his suit was top drawer, very John Steed in appearance... I will have to say you guys need to make your armholes much higher to match what's been done in the past with Off the rack and is being done by Savile row, though the styles are very 60's and look very nice.

 

[Matt Deckard]

If you want to check out a really good shop where they match the stripes in the shop and... well the stuff was pretty nice and they do bespoke, check out Phil's 1908. Jack took me to the shop and they're starting to introduce beltbacks as well and the prices are almost impossible to beat.

 

[Jovan]

Yeah, well, the owner's appearance doesn't exactly inspire confidence.

He looks like a friend of a friend I saw, wearing a dark green shirt untucked with cargo pants and a satin silk black tie. Only difference was that he was wearing a leather jacket. Honestly, it would have been fine if he had tucked in his shirt at least. :eusa_doh: Ties always scream for it.