Dating a Vintage Western (Cowboy) hat

[Mr. 'H']

I have advanced searched the lounge with google and cannot get the info I'm after on this topic.

My query is: how do you date a vintage western hat? See this hat for reference....

With my fedora knowledge and experience I would look first at the sweatband and see that it is brown leather not black, which came in to fashion more in the 50s. For me a black sweatband is a tell-tell sign that a hat is too modern for my tastes. I am wondering if the same applies here.

If I had to hazard a guess I would probably say this hat dates from the 50s or 60s despite the lack of a black sweatband. Maybe it's the double gold line at the top of the sweat that looks more 50s/60s to me.

Fact is, I've always wanted a nice Western for very occassional wear, and I would much rather go vintage pre-60s, but ideally 40s.

What say you on this topic?

 

[Dinerman]

That one's probably eighties or nineties. The sweatband's a newer type. It has a lot of x's which usually designates a newer one. The self felt band with the buckle is also a newer style.

 

[feltfan]

My vote is with Dinerman on this one (though I bet
you'll find 60s and 70s cowboy hats with self felt bands).
The Xs and the way they are printed is the giveaway,
as is the block.

Generally, I look at the clarity of the printing on
the sweatband when in doubt. But you'd be better
off looking for particular models you know to be
superior and no longer made. Some of the ones
I have are:

- Nutria Quality
- Clear Nutria
- Clear Beaver
- Cavanagh 55
- Number 1 Quality

In addition, look for signs of great hat making.
These are not guarantees of age, but they are
a good sign regardless. Stuff like really good
shackle curl or stylish casting on the band buckle
or embroidery rather than printing on the liner.
Look for very tall crowns and unusual dents.

Ideally you'd have access to old catalogs. I have
a western wear catalog from the mid-30s that is
handy. I should get around to scanning some pages.

You have a big head. But if I can find a few good ones,
you can, too. You might have to get it stretched.
Man, I'd love to see you out on the town in Dublin with
a Stetson Number 1 Quality ... My Irish friends HERE
make fun of me for my hats.

 

[majormoore]

My thoughts are if you like the hat and it fits, and meets the needs of why you are a buying the hat, don't worry about what year the hat might have been made.

The hat looks very nice, seems clean and no flaws, what are your plans with this hat? making a dress hat out of it, or will keep it as a western style hat?

You have a nice hat.

Major Moore

 

[carouselvic]

I agree with all the replies. When it comes to "old" Stetson cowboy hats, black sweatbands where used in the 1920's. There is a wealth of info written on this subject. Check out THE COWBOY HAT BOOK by Reynolds & Rand. Also STETSON HATS AND THE JOHN B. STETSON COMPANY by Snyder.

 

[Uncle Vern]

I agree with Major Moore. It's nice to have the vintage westerns, but in truth, there are lots of worthy newer cowboy hats floating around. Early 80's Resistols would be good examples, and then there are the hat makers like Major Moore himself, who can give you the look you want. I never let anything get in the way of buying a western that seems to look nice on me, provided I can buy it cheap!

 

[Mr. 'H']

Man, I'd love to see you out on the town in Dublin with
a Stetson Number 1 Quality ... My Irish friends HERE
make fun of me for my hats.

Man that would be soooo cool. I would take photos in Trinity College and post them here!

 

[Mr. 'H']

Some great advice here. Thanks guys (Major Moore :eusa_clap ).

The idea is just to have one good quality western hat that can wear when the mood/occasion suits. I would not turn it into a fedora, I prefer to keep it in its original state.

 

[Mr. 'H']

The self felt band

Would you mind clarifying what this term means?

 

[majormoore]

What it means is the hat has a hatband made out of the felt cut from the brim, most of the time it is 3/8" wide, then a three piece buckle set is used and it is then placed on the hat, the buckle sets can be low cost a few dollars to several hundreds based on what the buckle set is made of ( gold, or silver) some western hats look good with a buckle set and then some look better without, but it all boils down to is what the person who has the hat made or bought off the rack wants

Mike Moore