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CXL Horsehide VS. Vicenza

Messages
17,475
Location
Chicago
I much prefer the grain on the Vicenza. The pictures are taken in very different lighting so it's tough to compare the color depth. Aging cannot be called from those photos obviously.

If I'm being honest, Vicenza doesn't excite me as far as veg tanned leathers go. You make a good point that Vicenza does not show the great advantages over chrome tanned leather that it should, but other vegetable tanned leathers do. I think just about every other veg tanned horsehide I've seen looks nicer. Shinki, what Eastman uses, what Fine Creek is using, even Badalssi cowhide. I found out that Aero has some Badalassi now. If I were to buy an Aero, that would be the leather I would buy.
I would agree there. Shinki has far more "genuine grain" where vic looks embossed (at least what I've seen of late). Entirely too uniform. Vic also seems to vary more dramatically from batch to batch.
 

mygar

A-List Customer
Messages
384
This is absolutely up to the wearer and which characteristics they prefer...that said:

The property that CXL exhibits best is depth of color. No other leather on the planet has anywhere near the level of pull-up that CXL displays. If people can't see that they are blind. Really. Look at a brown or cordovan cxl jacket and compare it to any other leather available, you'll quickly become educated as to what pull up effect is. As carlos mentioned it is wax and oil stuffed. If this type of marbled appearance appeals to you, look no further. It is a heavy leather and for some that is a detriment (that's why God made skirts). Take it easy that was a joke...you whom are mad know who you are...:p

Vicenza certainly shows more immediate grain but much of the stuff I've seen lately looks printed and low res to boot. It is quite a bit lighter in my experience. My brief encounter with a size 42" 30's HB, weight-4.5lbs (that's around half my cxl equivalent). It is certainly far easier to wear, requires absolutely zero break-in and is super comfortable out of the box. The color is flat and uniform and there is zero pull-up. It's certainly not a weak leather but for me it's just a bit too flat in color to be very interesting (except for the olive and navy blue, I really like those).

When worn CXL feels like a jacket, Vic feels like an over-shirt. The climate where you live will dictate how much wear and which hide will suit you best. Both are fine hides and each one has it's positives and negatives.

So the Aero 50s halfbelt i just got... in tumbled brown fqhh ... i see what you are saying. This morning looking looking at it... there is a rich deep brown color that is very appealing.

Im not sure how to judge weight... never handled a comp vanson, etc

I can tell you the cordovan cr i had was pretty thick for hh... even @Monitor would agree... it was around 5.6 lb or so..

But this halfbelt is 5.5 lb... seems like a lead dentist jacket around you. :) Now.. although the weight doesnt seem too heavy ... the size of this jacket is 36. P2P 21.5, back 24.75, etc... its a small sized jacket. So when we talk about weight... the size of jacket is a big factor ...
 
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16,790
Another solid option - I was just settling on CXL Horse, and now I am reminded of this. Do you know if the "Jerky" HH is Chromexcel, or some other type? Is the color as rich as CXL, or more even like Vicenza?

If I'm not mistaken, Jerky HH is veg tanned. That's how it behaves in the rain, I can tell you that. It's not overly water resistant but it dries quickly.
What I know for sure though is that the colour is very rich. Looks unbelievably good in the sun. Leather itself is considerably stiff and definitely doesn't age as quickly as CXL. It's actually very hard wearing, honest leather.
 
Messages
17,475
Location
Chicago
Another solid option - I was just settling on CXL Horse, and now I am reminded of this. Do you know if the "Jerky" HH is Chromexcel, or some other type? Is the color as rich as CXL, or more even like Vicenza?



That cross zip (bootlegger?) is stunning - is that Horse or Steer? It looks like it's wearing in beautifully.
That's steer. I meant to mention. If you opt for CXL consider steer. Belly up to the table and eat some ribeye. All my CXL jackets are steer. It's a fantastic hide.
 

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,397
I would agree there. Shinki has far more "genuine grain" where vic looks embossed (at least what I've seen of late). Entirely too uniform. Vic also seems to vary more dramatically from batch to batch.
Yeah and not just Shinki. I have Italian leather boots that have a lot of beautiful variation and natural grain as well. Vic doesn't look like other veg tanned horsehides which is why I'm excited that Aero is looking into Badalassi.
 
Messages
16,790
Yeah and not just Shinki. I have Italian leather boots that have a lot of beautiful variation and natural grain as well. Vic doesn't look like other veg tanned horsehides which is why I'm excited that Aero is looking into Badalassi.

Shame only those two or three leathers get all the attention. You wouldn't believe the kind of leather that comes out of Italy. They make absolutely insanely beautiful stuff. Maybe more will get exposed with time but Italian leather jackets from the 70's, man... Not all of course, but some that I've seen...
 

mygar

A-List Customer
Messages
384
That's steer. I meant to mention. If you opt for CXL consider steer. Belly up to the table and eat some ribeye. All my CXL jackets are steer. It's a fantastic hide.

Lol... you know im not sure that anything thicker would look good on me.

I mean everything has to have a sense of scale right? You take me 5' 7.5" (yes, .5 important... as i used to be 5' 8" :() and a buck 50... i mean i probably will start looking like a cartoon character in comp weight..
 
Messages
17,475
Location
Chicago
i mean i probably will start looking like a cartoon character in comp weight..
You might
IMG_2220.JPG
 

willyto

One Too Many
Messages
1,616
Location
Barcelona
If I'm not mistaken, Jerky HH is veg tanned. That's how it behaves in the rain, I can tell you that. It's not overly water resistant but it dries quickly.
What I know for sure though is that the colour is very rich. Looks unbelievably good in the sun. Leather itself is considerably stiff and definitely doesn't age as quickly as CXL. It's actually very hard wearing, honest leather.
I just quoted the maker of such suits in my previous post:

Jeremy Appleton: We choose the best quality leather hide. In most cases we use cowhide, but we do use kangaroo as well. Bovine is used mostly though because it is very wear resistant, and it's usually between 1.2 and 1.4 millimetres thick.
The leather itself is of a very good quality so the filaments in the leather retain a lot of strength, and therefore provide a good deal of abrasion protection.

I'm not making things up. I researched what leathers were used and the weight and thickness. It's just a kind of leather resistant for abrasion.

Also people are missing the point about showing the Himel Kensington... precisely because it's not a riding gear leather and it can resist without desintegrating entirely means that it can do the job even when not designed for it which is a good thing.
 

LeFonque

One of the Regulars
Messages
221
Location
Melbourne Australia
F21F69EF-650D-4296-A707-7EB39C15ED1C.jpeg
This is absolutely up to the wearer and which characteristics they prefer...that said:

The property that CXL exhibits best is depth of color. No other leather on the planet has anywhere near the level of pull-up that CXL displays. If people can't see that they are blind. Really. Look at a brown or cordovan cxl jacket and compare it to any other leather available, you'll quickly become educated as to what pull up effect is. As carlos mentioned it is wax and oil stuffed. If this type of marbled appearance appeals to you, look no further. It is a heavy leather and for some that is a detriment (that's why God made skirts). Take it easy that was a joke...you whom are mad know who you are...:p

Vicenza certainly shows more immediate grain but much of the stuff I've seen lately looks printed and low res to boot. It is quite a bit lighter in my experience. My brief encounter with a size 42" 30's HB, weight-4.5lbs (that's around half my cxl equivalent). It is certainly far easier to wear, requires absolutely zero break-in and is super comfortable out of the box. The color is flat and uniform and there is zero pull-up. It's certainly not a weak leather but for me it's just a bit too flat in color to be very interesting (except for the olive and navy blue, I really like those).

When worn CXL feels like a jacket, Vic feels like an over-shirt. The climate where you live will dictate how much wear and which hide will suit you best. Both are fine hides and each one has it's positives and negatives.
After a life in heavy leather plus wearing a leather vest over the top of the jacket. I am happy to wear Vincenza and it is my preference nowadays. Skirt or no skirt. The heavy leather was great and suited my purpose in those days, saving a fair bit of skin on a number of occasions. I really wasn’t interested in the depth of colour or how the leather aged whereas today I wear my jackets for reasons other than protection.
Here is a picture of me from a decade ago sans jacket and club colours (for political reasons). I will leave it to you to judge if I wear a skirt or not.
 
Last edited:

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,397
Shame only those two or three leathers get all the attention. You wouldn't believe the kind of leather that comes out of Italy. They make absolutely insanely beautiful stuff. Maybe more will get exposed with time but Italian leather jackets from the 70's, man... Not all of course, but some that I've seen...
Agreed. I've seen some gorgeous leathers and don't even know what the tanneries are! My favorite boot leather comes from an Italian tannery and they wouldn't tell me the name of it. I wish I could just go down to Italy and take pictures of all the veg tanned leathers so people could see them all.
 

mygar

A-List Customer
Messages
384
Don't forget that there are also other leathers to consider as well such as Thedi's buffalo ( which I am still waiting for and agonizing over )...o_O

You and me brother. Got one in the pipeline... another in waxed cow. Cow not talked much... but the other thedi cr i have in waxed cow is great
 

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