Custom Made Linen Suit, Panama Hat, linen-leather Spectators?

[New Englishman]

Gentlemen, thanks in advance for your time and expertise. I have been a fan of the Fedora Lounge for a while. I have been working toward a more vintage look, but because I have a young family and started a business a few years ago, I have not had the time to do a lot of shopping. But, I did just order a Adventurebilt!

That said, I have to go to a wedding in Mexico this summer. Why someone would make me leave Maine in the summer is beyond me; especially to go to Mexico. A Mexico wedding in February would have been much better!

In any event, I wanted to get a vintage tropical look for the wedding and trip and have set a fairly high budget.

So, I think that I will go with a natural linen suit (three piece if I can find one). But, I am a big guy. My jacket size is 52 or 52 long. So, I'd ideally like to order a made-to-measure suit. Does anyone have a recommendation for a custom-made linen suit?

Also, I will be adding some linen-and-leather spectator shoes. Any recommendations for a place that carries size 14?

Finally, how about custom made panama hats? I want to order soon to have it for August.

I have checked out a bunch of custom made options for these. But, for example, Indochino has very mixed reviews. Most of these web-only guys seem to have mixed results which is why I plead to your combined expertise.

 

[dhermann1]

Well, let me the first to recommend Panamabob.com for a great deal on a Panama hat. As far as the other two are concerned, I can't say. I expect the spectators will be the hardest to come by.
That wedding sounds like fun. Enjoy!

 

[New Englishman]

Panamabob it is! Looks like great stuff! Thanks very much dhermann1!

 

[New Englishman]

Looks like I found the shoes! http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/producti_SF5505_1_40000000001_-1

 

[nihil]

Very good find. I really like the ones with cream linen fabric. But perhaps they are a bit much if the rest of the suit is in the same color.

 

[New Englishman]

That is a fair point nihil. Maybe a darker linen for the suit? What do others think? I think that they will go nicely with my pinks.

 

[Shangas]

The calf-brown and linen look best in my opinion. The others are too dark. The patterning and the nice, tooled leather just vanishes into insignificance. The linen makes it stand out nice and crisp and decorative.

 

[New Englishman]

Shangas, I agree completely. I would only buy the linen and brown calf. In fact, I wish that the brown were a bit lighter. More towards a chestnut or dark british tan. But in this age, size 14 beggars can't be choosers without much more cash that I have.

 

[Rathdown]

Made to measure linen suit in the USA? Well, I don't know if they have one near you, but you could probably have a linen suit run up by Nordstom's, or you could try www.makeyourownjeans.com .

 

[Shangas]

The linen look of the shoes would also match the light colours of the suit. And that would look awesome.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Try magnoli for the MTM linen suit.

http://www.magnoliclothiers.com/boardwalk-linen-blazer-blazers-p-326.html
http://www.magnoliclothiers.com/cairo-linen-suit-tailor-made-suits-by-magnoli-clothiers-p-229.html
http://www.magnoliclothiers.com/gittes-linen-suit-tailor-made-suits-by-magnoli-clothiers-p-177.html

 

[Edward]

How formal is the wedding? I'd instinctively baulk at earthtones of any sort for weddings, as a rule, but then most of the weddings I have attended have bee fairly formal (full formal daywear for the wedding party, that sort of thing).

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Full formal daywear? That's great! The opposite was true in my experiences. I didn't went to that much weddings though.
People lost the ability to dress up even on festive occasions and they don't enjoy it anymore. Suits mean business to them and so they think that a wedding shouldn't be business-like. I was told it is rude to outdress the wedding couple. Most of the guest did wear dress shirts but not half of them did wear a suit or a tie. That's just my current observation not a general rule about modern weddings.

 

[Shangas]

The sad thing of course, being that there's nothing 'businesslike' about a suit.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Depends on the suit. A part of my fascination with vintage suits is that most of them don't look like the typical modern business suit (=narrow notch lapels, SB, two piece, dark grey or blue, with low waisted trousers)

 

[New Englishman]

Well, the wedding is in Mexico, in the summer, and it is a day-time affair. Latins tend to be more formal, but the guests will be 90% Americans from NYC, SF, Boston, and Philly. It did not say black tie and I think that most people there will be fashionable, but not formal. They are not formal people, truth be told. When they came to our wedding, the woman wore a nice silk dress and the man wore a seersucker suit. I think that will be the extent of how formal they will expect the crowd to be. Ours was a summer, day time affair in Maine in August. We got married in an 18th century meeting house and had a reception until the next morning at a beautiful mansion located at an apple orchard. Our first dance was to kick-in-the-head by Dean Martin!

Believe me. If it was an evening affair, I'd be looking for an excuse to purchase an impeccable white dinner jacket!

Truth be told, I love weddings.

 

[avedwards]

How formal is the wedding? I'd instinctively baulk at earthtones of any sort for weddings, as a rule, but then most of the weddings I have attended have bee fairly formal (full formal daywear for the wedding party, that sort of thing).

I think linen is OK for a wedding in a warm climate. It just offends our British sensibilities because no gentleman would wear linen or earthtones for a wedding here.

Full formal daywear? That's great! The opposite was true in my experiences. I didn't went to that much weddings though.
People lost the ability to dress up even on festive occasions and they don't enjoy it anymore. Suits mean business to them and so they think that a wedding shouldn't be business-like. I was told it is rude to outdress the wedding couple. Most of the guest did wear dress shirts but not half of them did wear a suit or a tie. That's just my current observation not a general rule about modern weddings.

Outside of the business world Continental Europe tends to be a bit informal. At most weddings in the UK it is almost expected that all adult guests will wear a suit.

Depends on the suit. A part of my fascination with vintage suits is that most of them don't look like the typical modern business suit (=narrow notch lapels, SB, two piece, dark grey or blue, with low waisted trousers)

I'm starting a new job next Monday where the dress code is business dress (luckily ). I'm still thinking about how to wear vintage without sticking out. Whilst low rise trousers and narrow lapels are fashionable I don't think wide lapels or higher trousers will harm, but I think I might have to avoid 3 piece and DB suits, at least until I have proved my success and am well established in the company. Fortunately none of my vintage ties have particularly wild patterns so I can get away with them.

 

[Edward]

Full formal daywear? That's great! The opposite was true in my experiences.

Bear in mind, of course, that it wasn't always fully correct, as having been subject to the whims of the couple on question and the fact that modern hire places in my experience rarely understand the conventions of daywear themselves. I have on several occasions been obliged to wear a pre-tied "cravat". Ghastly. I've actually come to prefer a four in hand with formal daywear for the most part, myself, the cravat having been rather diminished in its appeal in that context by its abuse at the hands of one too many association football player types. I've worn a couple of frock coats with it - nice, though personally I prefer the cutaway morning coat, much more flattering on those of us who carry our weight round our middle. Brocade waistcoats are common, fortunately I've never had to wear anything truly vile. Trousers it is very common, I notice, to be in a black herringbone matching the morning coat. I believe this was an option at one time, though I would put its popularity these days down to contemporary attitudes to male dress giving rise to the notion that matching - a "suit" - is always the more formal approach. Or perhaps it's a comfort thing, giving the man uncomfortable with this manner of wardrobe the familiarity of it matching - just like a "normal" suit. Headwear is, alas, almost entirely ignored. At none of the wedding I have attended or even been involved in has even the groom worn a hat of any sort.

The last three weddings I've been to all feature lounge suits purchased specifically for the occasion.I have noticed that church weddings are somewhat more likely to be that little bit more formal than civil ceremonies, though the bigger trend I see is that people who either remarry or marry later in life for the first time tend to be less inclined towards the full, formal get up. I also think it's a modern male thing: men's occasional wear is all about uniform, fitting in, being the same: as we see it less and less, I think full formal daywear frightens a lot of men who are afraid of looking different, a different is "bad". Such a shame.

Of course, I have no idea what the norm was back in the day. Photos I have seen of grandparents' weddings (my own and others) are all lounge suits..... which, when you think about it, was considerably more casual than would be the case nowadays, bearing in mind the rise of the lounge suit in the last fifty-odd years from regular, day to day clothes to "formal". It's often easy to lose sight of the fact that not everyone back then could afford the full formal option, even to hire.

I didn't went to that much weddings though.
People lost the ability to dress up even on festive occasions and they don't enjoy it anymore. Suits mean business to them and so they think that a wedding shouldn't be business-like. I was told it is rude to outdress the wedding couple. Most of the guest did wear dress shirts but not half of them did wear a suit or a tie. That's just my current observation not a general rule about modern weddings.

I agree that it is, at best, impolite to out-do the groom and especially the bride at a wedding. One reason I like it when the wedding party go for full formal daywear - it's much less easy for we latter-day dandies to inadvertently outdo them. One day I would dearly love to go to a wedding where those male guests who wished to would be invited to wear formal daywear. I would, were I to be married, extend such an invitation to my guests, but as time marches on it becomes clear that this is not especially an occasion for which anyone should hold their breath...

 

[AntonAAK]

I'm starting a new job next Monday where the dress code is business dress (luckily ). I'm still thinking about how to wear vintage without sticking out. Whilst low rise trousers and narrow lapels are fashionable I don't think wide lapels or higher trousers will harm, but I think I might have to avoid 3 piece and DB suits, at least until I have proved my success and am well established in the company. Fortunately none of my vintage ties have particularly wild patterns so I can get away with them.

I think you can probably wear more vintage than you think. Most people aren't like us and would not notice the difference.

 

[Edward]

Well, the wedding is in Mexico, in the summer, and it is a day-time affair. Latins tend to be more formal, but the guests will be 90% Americans from NYC, SF, Boston, and Philly. It did not say black tie and I think that most people there will be fashionable, but not formal. They are not formal people, truth be told. When they came to our wedding, the woman wore a nice silk dress and the man wore a seersucker suit. I think that will be the extent of how formal they will expect the crowd to be. Ours was a summer, day time affair in Maine in August. We got married in an 18th century meeting house and had a reception until the next morning at a beautiful mansion located at an apple orchard. Our first dance was to kick-in-the-head by Dean Martin!

Believe me. If it was an evening affair, I'd be looking for an excuse to purchase an impeccable white dinner jacket!

Truth be told, I love weddings.

Glad not black tie on the invite if it's a day wedding.... I actively loathe how it has become acceptable daywear at this sort of event in the US. It sounds like this will be the sort of occasion for which something less formal is suitable. Despite my own preferences wardrobe wise, I absolutely consider that it would be horrendously boorish to turn up at someone else's wedding significantly overdressed: gives off the air that one thinks onesself better than the others. Sounds like your wedding was great! Almost all weddings I have attended have been Autumn or Winter weddings - the exception being one last June.

I think linen is OK for a wedding in a warm climate. It just offends our British sensibilities because no gentleman would wear linen or earthtones for a wedding here.

Well.... Irish sensibilities in my case. Yes, linen is wonderful for hot climates.... One of the best wardrobe purchases ever I made was my black linen suit. It has become my go-to for Summer graduations and other formal events where I require a dark suit but need something that will not smother me. I especially appreciated it at graduation in Beijing when despite forgoing both hoods and jackets under our gowns [cue sound of young Charles Tsua fainting as he reads this.... ], that ceremony was like sitting in an oven!

Outside of the business world Continental Europe tends to be a bit informal. At most weddings in the UK it is almost expected that all adult guests will wear a suit.

Yes, I've noticed that. I've only been to one wedding where this wasn't the case - some guests came in jeans. This was a church wedding with a very casual church community, however, so that would have been very normal. I prefer to make an effort, but at the same time I can certainly understand those organisers who might rather their guests be comfortable than wriggling in their funeral suit all day, especially if it doesn't fit so well..... I well remember at another wedding one of the guests who had discovered that morning that he had outgrown his suit trousers and had to hold them closed with a safety pin. Bless 'im... lol

I'm starting a new job next Monday where the dress code is business dress (luckily ). I'm still thinking about how to wear vintage without sticking out. Whilst low rise trousers and narrow lapels are fashionable I don't think wide lapels or higher trousers will harm, but I think I might have to avoid 3 piece and DB suits, at least until I have proved my success and am well established in the company. Fortunately none of my vintage ties have particularly wild patterns so I can get away with them.

Yeah, start it small, build up when they're used to you. For the most part, though, they are unlikely to notice.... folks will spot things like an especially wide trouser leg, a hat, or a loud tie, maybe a waistcoat, but for the most part to most people these days a suit is a suit is a suit. Don't forego the hat (assuming there' somewhere to store it at work - if not, a cap that can be stuck in a pocket is the better option). I'd wait a while before wearing a bow. FWIW, I'm known for how I dress in my own department (typically I outdress all the most senior staff without intending to), but it's very popular. It has worked up naturally (I was long in the job when I got into vintage), so noone has ever interpreted it as a pose at all. Of course, being in academia - where a certain level of eccentricity is almost expected - is an advantage here.