Custom Johnson Leathers Advice for MrFrown

[Mrfrown]

Hey everyone,

I've had some ideas percolating for my next jacket which have recently coalesced into more solid form.

I've really liked the look of cafe racer style jackets with the offset zipper like the Langlitz Cascade, Vanson Portland (an homage to the Cascade?), and the Y'2 HR-01:

My plan as it currently stands is to get JL to more or less copy the above Cascade in a Horween Dark Brown Vermont (shinier and full of character) or German Ranger Brown (more matte and uniform but still grainy). Both are in the mid 2oz range for weight.

What do you think about a snap on the chest to keep the lapel flap open when partially zipped? It sounds nice but maybe its just unnecessary? No personal experience with this type of closure without the larger upper collar. I'll likely leave it open partially zipped most of the time.

Planning on two zipped handwarmer pockets and outward-facing zipped sleeves. One internal map pocket for access when partially zipped.

I don't ride, but I do like the look of quilted padding on shoulders & elbows on vintage pieces that have seen a lot of wear. Well-worn it reminds me of badass medieval armor. Leaning toward skipping it with this one and keeping the design cleaner.

Both the Cascade and Portland come with smaller gussets by the shoulder, while the HR-01 omits. I intend to request them.

Is there something I'm not thinking of when it comes to this design?

Do you think JL is right for this job?

I'm also considering getting a custom brown Portland through Thurston possibly with the padding deleted, but haven't spoken with Carrie yet. I like the padding and the snaps up the front, but I feel like I want something a little simpler. Not sure if its the right move to request such a drastic change on the Vanson design which is clearly well-thought out and balanced in its way.

Let me know your thoughts!

 

[MrProper]

Hey everyone,

I've had some ideas percolating for my next jacket which have recently coalesced into more solid form.

I've really liked the look of cafe racer style jackets with the offset zipper like the Langlitz Cascade, Vanson Portland (an homage to the Cascade?), and the Y'2 HR-01:

View attachment 317460 View attachment 317461 View attachment 317462

My plan as it currently stands is to get JL to more or less copy the above Cascade in a Horween Dark Brown Vermont (shinier and full of character) or German Ranger Brown (more matte and uniform but still grainy). Both are in the mid 2oz range for weight.

What do you think about a snap on the chest to keep the lapel flap open when partially zipped? It sounds nice but maybe its just unnecessary? No personal experience with this type of closure without the larger upper collar. I'll likely leave it open partially zipped most of the time.

Planning on two zipped handwarmer pockets and outward-facing zipped sleeves. One internal map pocket for access when partially zipped.

I don't ride, but I do like the look of quilted padding on shoulders & elbows on vintage pieces that have seen a lot of wear. Well-worn it reminds me of badass medieval armor. Leaning toward skipping it with this one and keeping the design cleaner.

Both the Cascade and Portland come with smaller gussets by the shoulder, while the HR-01 omits. I intend to request them.

View attachment 317486

Is there something I'm not thinking of when it comes to this design?

Do you think JL is right for this job?

I'm also considering getting a custom brown Portland through Thurston possibly with the padding deleted, but haven't spoken with Carrie yet. I like the padding and the snaps up the front, but I feel like I want something a little simpler. Not sure if its the right move to request such a drastic change on the Vanson design which is clearly well-thought out and balanced in its way.

Let me know your thoughts!

I wouldn't take a snap button. I think that looks too tidy. I have snap buttons on my crosszip and I never use them.
And the gussets look good in your picture.

 

[Carlos840]

I have one Johnson Leathers, it is a copy of a Langlitz Columbia, if someone had told me it was made by Langlitz i would have believed it, if not for the label it looks just like a Langlitz.

Langlitz:

Johnson:

Both jackets are just as well made, fit just as well, and offer the same great range of motion.

Personally i am not a fan of the snaps, i don't see the point.
If they where on a wind flap like on the LL UR MkII i would say go for it, but the way they are on the Vanson is IMO useless.
I can't see myslef using the snaps only and not the zipper, why would i? it's slower.
And then if you have zipped the jacket up why would you need the snaps?
It seems redundant. Only use i can think of is in case of broken zipper.

If you like the Vanson you should definitely consider getting a custom version of it though, i am really happy with my Custom Commando. If you can try a stock Portland it would give you all the information you need to have a custom version made. That's what i did and it worked out great.

I went from this stock one:

To this:

Vanson was great to deal with, i got better service from them than i got from other smaller companies.
Whole story there:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/vanson-padded-cxl-commando.102953/#post-2760488

 

[handymike]

There is something really cool about the longer collar strap and contrasting inner color seen here and on @Carlos840 LL jacket

Okay, maybe not this long, but something.

 

[JMax]

Hey everyone,

What do you think about a snap on the chest to keep the lapel flap open when partially zipped? It sounds nice but maybe its just unnecessary? No personal experience with this type of closure without the larger upper collar. I'll likely leave it open partially zipped most of the time.

I don't ride, but I do like the look of quilted padding on shoulders & elbows on vintage pieces that have seen a lot of wear. Well-worn it reminds me of badass medieval armor. Leaning toward skipping it with this one and keeping the design cleaner.

Let me know your thoughts!

I'll focus on these questions. I think the snap on the chest, ala my LW Leathertogs, looks good and is very useful. It adds versality to the jacket, both functionally and aesthetically. The snap should have a little snap-on cover to keep it looking tight when not in use.

I really like how padding looks. That said, no padding is a bit more versatile imo. Though perhaps something a bit more subdued is the best of both worlds? This is my Bates. More stitching that padding.

I look forward to your jacket. Sounds like it will be awesome.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

that Vanson Commando is fire. Stumbled on a few pics of a Butterscotch collab one and was like wow.

Have you checkd out the Thedi stuff? They seem to have a good balance of flair and classic design especially on their racers.

 

[Psant25]

I had the collar snap on my cascade. Could have done without and I ride too was not useful imo. Same for vanson model b. I never snapped the collar riding and always had it folded back and snapped.

i have had a few custom JL and love em as long as you work out the fit. I need to bring in shoulder, taper sleeves, and add length

i went back to langlitz for my columbia coming in july. Dont know why my brown CHP from JL is perfect imo... just something different. Want to give another go.

I think for stock and at “similar” price point LL has nicer zips and some other small things i like better like the liner and some stitching. Leather wise i upgraded to heavy brown cxl hh with my JL and was still priced below stock langlitz medium cow

I think if set on horse gotta go JL unless u wanna fork up some serious cash to LL. Someone had a LL brown cow or goat cascade they redyed and it turned out awesome.

 

[TheDonEffect]

Ugh, talk about timing, this thread I swear, lol. I'm also considering a cafe collar asymetrical zip moto jacket, and have been piecing together design elements I want, and JL is my maker of choice.

As far as should you use JL, yes you should, they're great, but Vanson and others are also awesome as well.

It's hilarious, all the things you're considering I'm working out in my head right now too, lol. As far as snaps, I wouldn't need them to hold the flap in place since the flap will be under the zipper (to keep wind out) and I would only need snaps to keep the lapel in place when it's open, ala double rider type. I tend to lean towards simple/clean than ornate/detailed.

I really like how the main zip and lapels look on this Thedi:

https://thedi-leathers.com/product/cafe-racer-mtc-127984/

I don't want the extra bulk in the gut area as most double riders have, but I need some sort of flap under the zipper to keep wind out, and if I'm going to have said flap I'd like to have it be incorporated with the design of the jacket rather than just being there as they tend to be on cafes. I also want to keep alot of the clean simple aesthetic of a cafe, I think this Thedi design that I found in a handful of other jackets accomplishes what I'm looking for since it keeps the clean look of a cafe, but gives somewhere to snap down the lapels and incorporates the flaps, I'd add a more traditional small nero/cafe/standup collar for a little coverage so the sun doesnt beat down on my neck, and a snap to hold down the right lapel when it's open.

For me, all I need are hand warmers (more to rest my arms) and enough external storage to hold my phone, wallet, and keys, and concluded that zippered handwarmer pockets will accomplish all my needs without having to add another pocket. My last design hurdle is to find a design for front zip vents, just haven't found a look I like yet. I'm thinking two smallish horizontal zips on the collarbone area, or maybe just perf it, ahhh I could go on and on.

As far as padding, I like the look with and without it, depends how ornate you like things imo, but it definitely gives a more casual vibe, but really it comes down to how ornate the stitching it. If you do a straight horizontal bars, it looks more functional and therefore casual, but a intricate pattern like a diamond stitch or something classes it up a bit, kinda like an old English hunting jacket. Since I plan to add armor since I will be using this for riding, I'll probably forego this since it'll add some visual bulk.

 

[Carlos840]

I'll focus on these questions. I think the snap on the chest, ala my LW Leathertogs, looks good and is very useful. It adds versality to the jacket, both functionally and aesthetically. The snap should have a little snap-on cover to keep it looking tight when not in use.

View attachment 317502
View attachment 317501

I really like how padding looks. That said, no padding is a bit more versatile imo. Though perhaps something a bit more subdued is the best of both worlds? This is my Bates. More stitching that padding.

View attachment 317500
I look forward to your jacket. Sounds like it will be awesome.

Do you actually bother moving the snap-on cover around?
Mine lives on this button, so i can snap and unsnap the lapel without faffing.
I felt it was a good compromise since i don't need to close that snap when the jacket is closed as it is just next to the zipper.

 

[Psant25]

Here check this out. That leather has a lot of character

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/2007-langlitz-cascade.82543/

 

[JMax]

Do you actually bother moving the snap-on cover around?
Mine lives on this button, so i can snap and unsnap the lapel without faffing.
I felt it was a good compromise since i don't need to close that snap when the jacket is closed as it is just next to the zipper.

Sometimes I do. When I'm riding I tend to move it from snap to snap a few times a day. If its too hot, or it starts raining, or I'm saddling up to the bar. So I put it in the interior pocket. I probably should do what you do and not worry about losing it. And to avoid "oh no" moments when I forget where I have it stashed. Next time I speak with Stuart I will ask him for one or two extra.

 

[Mrfrown]

Thanks all for the replies so far

The snap I was unclearly asking about is what @JMax pointed out - one to keep the larger lapel held down when partially zipped. I guess usefulness somewhat depends on how far across the chest the larger section reaches. On the Leathertogs it goes almost to the opposite shoulder, leaving a much larger lapel on one side than the other. With the Cascade and its variants, the zip connects closer to the neck. Still, I think it could be useful for consistency.

For this project I'm not interested in the row of snaps following the zip up. I'll probably get one on the collar but never use it lol. @handymike agreed! Its one of the things I like most about the Lewis UR MK1 and MK2. It is present also on the Thedi @TheDonEffect shared. Will have to mull over including it here, but really leaning towards it now.

Speaking of that Thedi - I really like it. I have it on a short list of Thedi's models to drool over. That being said, I think if?when? I get a Thedi it will be to replace my Bates crosszip (if my muscles or belly every outgrow it) with this one https://thedi-leathers.com/product/mtc-127956/ or one of his fabric & leather combo pieces.

@Carlos840 Thank you for the side-by-side it gives me even more confidence in JL. Maybe its just path of least resistance for now since I've worked with Damon before. I do want to get a Vanson at some point. In fact, I very nearly ordered a custom Vanson Arrow in Octagon a while back. Clearly your custom Commando is special in many ways.

Regarding padding, I think I'll skip it this time around. The more subdued versions are pretty appealing but I do like em all.

 

[Mrfrown]

Here check this out. That leather has a lot of character

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/2007-langlitz-cascade.82543/

Holy moly. That's amazing. Guess I know what I'll do if I ever decide my leather is too boring/flat looking.

 

[Carlos840]

Thanks all for the replies so far

The snap I was unclearly asking about is what @JMax pointed out - one to keep the larger lapel held down when partially zipped. I guess usefulness somewhat depends on how far across the chest the larger section reaches. On the Leathertogs it goes almost to the opposite shoulder, leaving a much larger lapel on one side than the other. With the Cascade and its variants, the zip connects closer to the neck. Still, I think it could be useful for consistency.

For this project I'm not interested in the row of snaps following the zip up. I'll probably get one on the collar but never use it lol. @handymike agreed! Its one of the things I like most about the Lewis UR MK1 and MK2. It is present also on the Thedi @TheDonEffect shared. Will have to mull over including it here, but really leaning towards it now.

Speaking of that Thedi - I really like it. I have it on a short list of Thedi's models to drool over. That being said, I think if?when? I get a Thedi it will be to replace my Bates crosszip (if my muscles or belly every outgrow it) with this one https://thedi-leathers.com/product/mtc-127956/ or one of his fabric & leather combo pieces.

@Carlos840 Thank you for the side-by-side it gives me even more confidence in JL. Maybe its just path of least resistance for now since I've worked with Damon before. I do want to get a Vanson at some point. In fact, I very nearly ordered a custom Vanson Arrow in Octagon a while back. Clearly your custom Commando is special in many ways.

Regarding padding, I think I'll skip it this time around. The more subdued versions are pretty appealing but I do like em all.

My bad, i misunderstood.
In that case i would not bother with a snap on a jacket with as little overlap as the cascade or the portland.
That snap makes sens on the LT/B because there is a very wide overlap, the zipper is almost on the side of your body and that leaves a huge lapel floping around when the jacket is half open.

With the jackets you are looking at the overlap is much smaller, the lapel much narrower, it is IMO not necessary to have an extra snap.

 

[JMax]

My bad, i misunderstood.
In that case i would not bother with a snap on a jacket with as little overlap as the cascade or the portland.
That zipper makes sens on the LT/B because there is a very wide overlap, the zipper is almost on the side of your body and that leaves a huge lapel floping around when the jacket is half open.

With the jackets you are looking at the overlap is much smaller, the lapel much narrower, it is IMO not necessary to have an extra snap.

I agree, it would not be as necessary as on the LT. But I still think it would be useful and still look good. Check this link out (I'm not smart enough to copy or export the photos):

http://usedmotorcyclejackets.org/la...e_jacket_vintage_size_40_ultimate_jacket.html

 

[Mrfrown]

My bad, i misunderstood.
In that case i would not bother with a snap on a jacket with as little overlap as the cascade or the portland.
That zipper makes sens on the LT/B because there is a very wide overlap, the zipper is almost on the side of your body and that leaves a huge lapel floping around when the jacket is half open.

With the jackets you are looking at the overlap is much smaller, the lapel much narrower, it is IMO not necessary to have an extra snap.

Yeah in the pics on butterscotchlb, the Portland looks great unzipped. Just hard to tell if its the pose for the camera or if it falls naturally like that.

 

[Jin431]

Whatever you go with I'm sure it will have great and functional design considering all the elements other members have pointed out. A fit jacket to dial everything in is a must for a project like this. Now I really cant wait to pick up my JL Vermont jacket

 

[Mrfrown]

Whatever you go with I'm sure it will have great and functional design considering all the elements other members have pointed out. A fit jacket to dial everything in is a must for a project like this. Now I really cant wait to pick up my JL Vermont jacket

Yeah at first I was just planning to get their base model CR in a nice leather. Then my mind went full galaxy brain mode - anything is possible!

 

[Jin431]

Yeah at first I was just planning to get their base model CR in a nice leather. Then my mind went full galaxy brain mode - anything is possible!

Yep you're already paying premium so might as well go for it go for it my man!

 

[TheDonEffect]

Yeah at first I was just planning to get their base model CR in a nice leather. Then my mind went full galaxy brain mode - anything is possible!

100%