Cross zip nation

[sweetfights]

Is this a Lost World John I never hear of the J-100?

The LW J100 is a cafe racer.

 

[tmitchell59]

I wondering what a cross between these two would be like.
View attachment 251186
View attachment 251185
Does anyone have any examples of 30s cross aviator cross zips in suede?

I am not familiar with a 30s/40s cross aviator in suede. I referenced the Sears catalog and found the first use of Aviator style was in the 1940 catalog. Remember that zippers were not commonly used till 1933.

Sears continues the diagonal zip Aviator style until 1948. It disappears and the diagonal zip Motorcyle jacket begins.

This is the 1940 catalog depiction. Through out the years this style was offered it was popular in Capeskin, also available in Horsehide and cowhide.

This is the last year of the Aviator mention, 1948. Note the mention of California. Fur collar, zip cuffs. Never seen one like this.

 

[tmitchell59]

I wonder if they made a Topline suede cross zip, and if Topline was the inspiration for the Aero Majestic.
View attachment 251193

There are not many Topline jackets, they are nice, but did not last long. I have not seen a Topline in a cross zip pattern, although they probably do exist. I have Topline jackets in Capeskin, Suede, and one in an unknown leather.

Sears made a variety of Suede half-belt jackets with the smooth leather trim. I have seen other suede half-belts from this era with smooth leather trim.

 

[tmitchell59]

Just found this picture in a book I ordered through another thread.

Topline cross zip. Wow!

 

[JMax]

Just found this picture in a book I ordered through another thread.

Topline cross zip. Wow!

View attachment 251279

Awesome book, right? I can get lost in it.

 

[tmitchell59]

Awesome book, right? I can get lost in it.

I just placed my order.

Yes, I just looked at the samples and found that Topline jacket! Most of the jackets in this book will probably never show up again. They are in Strong hands!

I will do a review when I get it.

 

[jonesy86]

Ok, moment of truth. The leather: liberty black horsehide, good hand, good weight, feels a bit more like Eastman’s “American walnut Warhorse®” than Aero’s Vicenza. Maybe black Vicenza, certainly thicker than Eastman. The fit: all the measurements were done spot on. I feared it may be too large at the chest but it’s fine. The pattern: this one could use improvement, but I’m in no position to judge as I have not seen the original in person, overall it is a fairly straight up and down pattern, the shoulder seam (seam between front panel and back panel) is situated in the middle of the shoulder on the frontal plane, unlike some pattern that it angles backward and creating a rounded deltoid (which I personally like), if you are not sure of this detail, just observe your jacket hanging on a hanger and see if the seam rests on top of the hanger or falls backward. The details: job well done on the complicated D pocket. It has a lining through the vertical zipper pocket as well as through the hand entry, I need to figure how it’s made! They used a 60s Talon for front zipper (I may be wrong). Back pleates are beautiful. Blacked double D, I can cinched and artificially create a V shaped back. The side belts are raw-edged, instead of folded in half, this is accurate to many originals. Armhole a little low but typical of the era, again, can’t judge. Very happy overall. I would make it differently (pattern wise), t until I do, I wouldn’t say I can do better.

Nice jacket, congratulations! The detail and symmetry on the D pocket looks great, and the stitching on whole looks spot on.

 

[Marc mndt]

They are in Strong hands!

A lot of them are from David himel.

 

[tmitchell59]

A lot of them are from David himel.

I noted that the Sears Topline is Dave Himels. He says he sold many of his vintage jackets to Japanese collectors. I would like him to open his archive. I would guess he has a pile.

 

[ton312]

I am not familiar with a 30s/40s cross aviator in suede. I referenced the Sears catalog and found the first use of Aviator style was in the 1940 catalog. Remember that zippers were not commonly used till 1933.

Sears continues the diagonal zip Aviator style until 1948. It disappears and the diagonal zip Motorcyle jacket begins.

This is the 1940 catalog depiction. Through out the years this style was offered it was popular in Capeskin, also available in Horsehide and cowhide.

View attachment 251277

This is the last year of the Aviator mention, 1948. Note the mention of California. Fur collar, zip cuffs. Never seen one like this.

View attachment 251278

One of these was for sale in the classifieds not long ago. I saved the pics. a ridiculously cool jacket. Almost painful to look at because it’s so damn beautiful.

 

[jonesy86]

There are not many Topline jackets, they are nice, but did not last long. I have not seen a Topline in a cross zip pattern, although they probably do exist. I have Topline jackets in Capeskin, Suede, and one in an unknown leather.

Sears made a variety of Suede half-belt jackets with the smooth leather trim. I have seen other suede half-belts from this era with smooth leather trim.

As always T, you are very generous with your vast knowledge. Thank you. I wonder how the suede compared to the Capeskin in thickness and weight?

 

[ton312]

As always T, you are very generous with your vast knowledge. Thank you. I wonder how the suede compared to the Capeskin in thickness and weight?

Looks like the cape and suede were extremely light. Shipping weights were 3lbs ish. I love the descriptions from the old Sears catalogs. No base left uncovered. Such a shame that modern big box retailers put absolutely no stock in producing sustainable goods. At least for the most part. I was pleasantly surprised by the Gap suede trucker I bought. Close to 5 lbs, thick and well made. The exception to the rule. I suppose things that last aren’t good for business.

 

[handymike]

My Gap suede shirt-jacket is very well made for the $29.00 I paid.

 

[Monitor]

One of these was for sale in the classifieds not long ago. I saved the pics. a ridiculously cool jacket. Almost painful to look at because it’s so damn beautiful.
View attachment 251335 View attachment 251336 View attachment 251337

Damn... This is something else. Why didn't you get this???

JL could remade this. Just sayin'.

 

[ton312]

Damn... This is something else. Why didn't you get this???

JL could remade this. Just sayin'.

The size was too small. It’s a genuine grail though. Remakes will never match it. That’s the thing. Every remake is essentially “New Coke”. It might taste good at first. But it isn’t the real deal. I just tied a bow on this post.

 

[jonesy86]

Looks like the cape and suede were extremely light. Shipping weights were 3lbs ish. I love the descriptions from the old Sears catalogs. No base left uncovered. Such a shame that modern big box retailers put absolutely no stock in producing sustainable goods. At least for the most part. I was pleasantly surprised by the Gap suede trucker I bought. Close to 5 lbs, thick and well made. The exception to the rule. I suppose things that last aren’t good for business.

I found a reference to a 30s unlined Capeskin suede jacket. Himel said that many jackets in the 30s were very light weight wind breakers. No cross zip to be seen though.

 

[jonesy86]

Himel said that he based this one on a 30s Leather togs. What with Shinki Suede, what's not to like?

 

[Monitor]

The size was too small. It’s a genuine grail though. Remakes will never match it. That’s the thing. Every remake is essentially “New Coke”. It might taste good at first. But it isn’t the real deal. I just tied a bow on this post.

Yep, you're right... But you know what, at least you got something to hunt for now. That's maybe the best part, even if it takes years for another one to appear.

That's a Grail alright and it's actually more you than I thought it possible. But it's really super awesome. Sleeve zips w/ button cuffs. Action back, fur collar. Everything.

Crazy times when you could walk into a shopping mall and buy this. Among many other things.

Himel said that he based this one on a 30s Leather togs. What with Shinki Suede, what's not to like?
View attachment 251362

That it's suede. XD

Nice, otherwise.

 

[ton312]

I’d imagine turning shinki into suede negates all the desirable characteristics that make Shinki, well...shinki...making it an odd choice for the belt sander. I love suede but I can’t distinguish good from bad tbh. It’s either thick or thin. I prefer thick.

 

[Benny Holiday]

I don't know much about it either.
Suede . . . The final frontier . . .