Cross zip nation

[regius]

My BK cross zip D pocket is on some kind of horse drawn carriage, took five days to move from Chicago to Indianapolis.

 

[J Leather Investigater]

Can't wait to see it

My BK cross zip D pocket is on some kind of horse drawn carriage, took five days to move from Chicago to Indianapolis.

 

[regius]

Now it’s being fast tracked from Indianapolis to me, out for delivery today

 

[regius]

Ok, moment of truth. The leather: liberty black horsehide, good hand, good weight, feels a bit more like Eastman’s “American walnut Warhorse®” than Aero’s Vicenza. Maybe black Vicenza, certainly thicker than Eastman. The fit: all the measurements were done spot on. I feared it may be too large at the chest but it’s fine. The pattern: this one could use improvement, but I’m in no position to judge as I have not seen the original in person, overall it is a fairly straight up and down pattern, the shoulder seam (seam between front panel and back panel) is situated in the middle of the shoulder on the frontal plane, unlike some pattern that it angles backward and creating a rounded deltoid (which I personally like), if you are not sure of this detail, just observe your jacket hanging on a hanger and see if the seam rests on top of the hanger or falls backward. The details: job well done on the complicated D pocket. It has a lining through the vertical zipper pocket as well as through the hand entry, I need to figure how it’s made! They used a 60s Talon for front zipper (I may be wrong). Back pleates are beautiful. Blacked double D, I can cinched and artificially create a V shaped back. The side belts are raw-edged, instead of folded in half, this is accurate to many originals. Armhole a little low but typical of the era, again, can’t judge. Very happy overall. I would make it differently (pattern wise), but until I do, I wouldn’t say I can do better.

 

[J Leather Investigater]

Ok, moment of truth. The leather: liberty black horsehide, good hand, good weight, feels a bit more like Eastman’s “American walnut Warhorse®” than Aero’s Vicenza. Maybe black Vicenza, certainly thicker than Eastman. The fit: all the measurements were done spot on. I feared it may be too large at the chest but it’s fine. The pattern: this one could use improvement, but I’m in no position to judge as I have not seen the original in person, overall it is a fairly straight up and down pattern, the shoulder seam (seam between front panel and back panel) is situated in the middle of the shoulder on the frontal plane, unlike some pattern that it angles backward and creating a rounded deltoid (which I personally like), if you are not sure of this detail, just observe your jacket hanging on a hanger and see if the seam rests on top of the hanger or falls backward. The details: job well done on the complicated D pocket. It has a lining through the vertical zipper pocket as well as through the hand entry, I need to figure how it’s made! They used a 60s Talon for front zipper (I may be wrong). Back pleates are beautiful. Blacked double D, I can cinched and artificially create a V shaped back. The side belts are raw-edged, instead of folded in half, this is accurate to many originals. Armhole a little low but typical of the era, again, can’t judge. Very happy overall. I would make it differently (pattern wise), but until I do, I wouldn’t say I can do better.

Looks cool

 

[Benny Holiday]

Yeah congrats Regius I dig it!

 

[Mich486]

Nice Regius, I have a jacket in black Liberty and I do really like the leather.

 

[Marc mndt]

Ok, moment of truth. The leather: liberty black horsehide, good hand, good weight, feels a bit more like Eastman’s “American walnut Warhorse®” than Aero’s Vicenza. Maybe black Vicenza, certainly thicker than Eastman. The fit: all the measurements were done spot on. I feared it may be too large at the chest but it’s fine. The pattern: this one could use improvement, but I’m in no position to judge as I have not seen the original in person, overall it is a fairly straight up and down pattern, the shoulder seam (seam between front panel and back panel) is situated in the middle of the shoulder on the frontal plane, unlike some pattern that it angles backward and creating a rounded deltoid (which I personally like), if you are not sure of this detail, just observe your jacket hanging on a hanger and see if the seam rests on top of the hanger or falls backward. The details: job well done on the complicated D pocket. It has a lining through the vertical zipper pocket as well as through the hand entry, I need to figure how it’s made! They used a 60s Talon for front zipper (I may be wrong). Back pleates are beautiful. Blacked double D, I can cinched and artificially create a V shaped back. The side belts are raw-edged, instead of folded in half, this is accurate to many originals. Armhole a little low but typical of the era, again, can’t judge. Very happy overall. I would make it differently (pattern wise), but until I do, I wouldn’t say I can do better.

Is this a repro from their archives offering? I discovered this offering on their website a couple of weeks ago. Really cool and I wondered whether anybody on the lounge had one of these. Looks very well made, only the lining is different from the original? I would love to see some fit pics?

By the way, their pricing is very competitive. Right now they offer a £50 discount on your first order, which would make this a £700 jacket if I'm correct? That's less expensive than a custom aero jacket, while it looks to be better made? (Very neat stitching). Is there a catch?

 

[regius]

There’s no catch really, the advantage is that the “custom” goes farther than Aero. More detailed sizing, and the design is meant to copy a hit, actual jacket from the lightning magazine. However, as I mentioned, the pattern may not be an accurate copy. A keen eye can tell (pattern recognition so to speak) by looking at how the jacket lays flat, and you can tell the collar and lapel shape and configurations. Lead time may be longer, delivery time certainly very long.

 

[Robbie79]

@regius I had been looking at this specific jacket design in their jacket archives some time ago as I really like it. Congrats from my side! For some reason I didn't dare to chose their Liberty HH after reading several posts here that it feels like vinyl.

 

[regius]

@Robbie79, I think it’s their old Liberty, I had an Escape A2 from BK when they first launched fit. I was probably the first. It was the same material Eastman uses on the USAAF wallet, same tannery. But this one is very much Vicenza.

 

[regius]

This horsehide, whether it’s from the same tannery in the Vicenza area as aero’s, its very good, no complaint. It’s exactly where it’s to be at. I like the aero jerky, Vicenza, Eastman warhorse, shinki, horsemen Essex and Lux, all good stuff, but not so much for CXL for garment anymore, it hardens in cold and feels cold to the touch.

 

[jonesy86]

View attachment 230604

wow, look at the curve on that zipper.

 

[jonesy86]

I wondering what a cross between these two would be like.

Does anyone have any examples of 30s cross aviator cross zips in suede?

 

[Marc mndt]

I wondering what a cross between these two would loo. like.
View attachment 251186
View attachment 251185
Does anyone have any examples of 30s cross aviator cross zips in suede?

Didn't Thedi make one?

 

[Marc mndt]

Or is this considered a mc jacket, not an aviator?

 

[jonesy86]

Or, maybe a cross between these two but without the mouton. I have asked Theodoros about a light weight goat or capeskin cross zip. I wonder how heavy this suede is.

 

[jonesy86]

I wonder if they made a Topline suede cross zip, and if Topline was the inspiration for the Aero Majestic.

 

[handymike]

Ok, moment of truth. The leather: liberty black horsehide, good hand, good weight, feels a bit more like Eastman’s “American walnut Warhorse®” than Aero’s Vicenza. Maybe black Vicenza, certainly thicker than Eastman. The fit: all the measurements were done spot on. I feared it may be too large at the chest but it’s fine. The pattern: this one could use improvement, but I’m in no position to judge as I have not seen the original in person, overall it is a fairly straight up and down pattern, the shoulder seam (seam between front panel and back panel) is situated in the middle of the shoulder on the frontal plane, unlike some pattern that it angles backward and creating a rounded deltoid (which I personally like), if you are not sure of this detail, just observe your jacket hanging on a hanger and see if the seam rests on top of the hanger or falls backward. The details: job well done on the complicated D pocket. It has a lining through the vertical zipper pocket as well as through the hand entry, I need to figure how it’s made! They used a 60s Talon for front zipper (I may be wrong). Back pleates are beautiful. Blacked double D, I can cinched and artificially create a V shaped back. The side belts are raw-edged, instead of folded in half, this is accurate to many originals. Armhole a little low but typical of the era, again, can’t judge. Very happy overall. I would make it differently (pattern wise), but until I do, I wouldn’t say I can do better.

Congratulations @regius!
It looks very nice. What brand do you think the original was?

 

[jonbuilder]

J-1000 View attachment 243034 View attachment 243035

Is this a Lost World John I never hear of the J-100?