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Closing jacket vents

carldelo

One Too Many
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Astoria, NYC
A couple of years ago, I got a good deal on a nice Hickey-Freeman tweed suit, 3-button, double vent with a no-lapel vest. Except for this suit, all of mine are 3-button, no vents. At the time, the salesmen said I could have a tailor close the vents. I didn't really believe him and my tailor, a talented Romanian woman of strong opinions said "Absolutely not, it is not the design". I'm mostly used to the vents, although I prefer to have none.

Fast forward to a couple of weeks ago - I picked up a nice flannel jacket with double vents, and I've been wondering if they could be closed - I think it would look much better. Although the jacket was inexpensive (HSM on sale at Syms), I don't want to mess it up, as it is quite nice. I'm sure I will learn to like it, but wonder....

So, what about it, has anyone here ever had the vents closed successfully on a jacket?
 

Tomasso

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Closing a vent is a common alteration. Just make sure you ponder it long and hard because it can NOT be reversed. Also, you might consider finding a new tailor. And, at the risk of sounding sexist, it's probably best for a gent to use a male tailor.;)
 

carldelo

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Astoria, NYC
Tomasso said:
Closing a vent is a common alteration. Just make sure you ponder it long and hard because it can NOT be reversed. Also, you might consider finding a new tailor. And, at the risk of sounding sexist, it's probably best for a gent to use a male tailor.;)

Thanks Tomasso, but there's no way I'm looking for a new tailor - it's taken me years to find someone with her skill. She's opinionated and very competent, much more so than the last three (male) tailors I've used. My only regret is that the man with the custom tailor shop across the street retired only 1 year after I found him (in 1988 I think it was). Anyway, if the alteration is straightforward as you say, I'll give it some thought after wearing the jacket for a month or two. Carl
 

Flitcraft

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Personally...

I'd keep the vents and the tailor! She's right- the vents are part of the design. Cary Grant actually preferred double vents because they're so functional.
Your tailor probably has strong opinions based upon her experience.
I'd keep the vents and enjoy them.
 

Nick D

Call Me a Cab
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2,166
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Upper Michigan
I've been wondering about this, too. Except for a linen summer suit, all my suits are single or no vent (I prefer no vent). I've passed by suits that were otherwise what I was looking for because of the side vents. They may be functional, but to my eye they ruin the line of the jacket and they make it flap in the wind.

Maybe I should pick up a tweed jacket at a charity shop with side vents and try closing them.
 

DOUGLAS

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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I have several jackets that I have closed the double vents. My body shape is not suited for vents, especially double vents. Personally I think it looks better with them closed whether it opposes the design or not.
 

David V

A-List Customer
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305
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Downers Grove, IL
The only vent I had closed up was on my dinner jacket. I would keep the double vents on a lounge suit or odd jacket. They are a great detail and difficult to find on RTW these days.
 

carldelo

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Astoria, NYC
Thanks

David V said:
The only vent I had closed up was on my dinner jacket. I would keep the double vents on a lounge suit or odd jacket. They are a great detail and difficult to find on RTW these days.

Wow, from my recent shopping excursions, I'd say 75% of the suits I saw in Syms (mostly from higher end RTW) and 90% of what I saw in Lord & Taylor have double vents and only 2 buttons - very frustrating. I'm with Douglas and Nick D, my body type is not suited for double vents - they seem to always stand slightly open, not to mention flapping while I walk. The one suit and one jacket I have with the double vent are on the roomy side, so mostly hang properly. To be honest, since I first saw them they've reminded me of the trap-door backside on old union suits, so I've never liked them.

As to the topic, it's good to know others have had success in closing vents. The jacket looks OK as is, but I know I would wear the tweed suit a good deal more with no vents. I think I'll pin the vents closed as a trial run and see how it looks....
 

Tomasso

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Flitcraft said:
Cary Grant actually preferred double vents because they're so functional.
And yet the most famous suit in the history of cinema, which was worn by Grant in North by Northwest, was ventless.[huh]

north_by_northwest.jpg


north202.jpg


BTW, Richard's tale of Grant's affection for double vents has been called into question by several other Grant authors. And it's very difficult to find a photo of him actually wearing such.
 

carldelo

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Astoria, NYC
Update

Well, I didn't realize it had been quite so long, but I finally got around to having the vents closed on the flannel sport jacket I mentioned in my original post. The tailor didn't blink, only charged $20, and there is no evidence that it was anything but a ventless jacket. I'd take a picture but it will just look like a dark gray flannel jacket with no vents - I didn't take a 'before' picture for comparison anyway.

I will be converting my tweed suit with double vents pretty soon. This time I'll take before and after photos and post them. This jacket needs to be let out as well, as it's a bit tight now. So if you're contemplating closing up some vents, I say go for it. It's no big deal if your tailor has their wits about them. I did pin the vents closed as a trial run to see if it would look OK - maybe a good idea to try this if you're not sure how your jacket will look afterwards.

Cheers, Carl
 

filfoster

One Too Many
Venting

Unless the vents line up exactly with a seam in the body of the coat, won't it be obvious that these have simply been sewn up? Unless you were to undergo a horribly expensive and perhaps impossible, depending on the material, a 'french weave' or reweaving of some kind over the seam. This seems (pun intended) like a lot of trouble.
 

carldelo

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Astoria, NYC
On my jacket, and the suit jacket I will have closed up, the vents are really just a seam that was not closed up. By that I mean there was a seam running contiguously and in line with the top of the existing vent. I believe this will be the case on most jackets. The alternative - a vent cut in otherwise continuous material - seems like it would be an oddity. I don't ever recall seeing vents in a man's jacket done this way. Maybe a notch in the hem of a jacket might be cut this way, but not regular vents.

In any event, when the vents were closed in mine, they are indistinguishable from the remainder of the seam that goes up the back of the jacket to the shoulder seam on each side. A center vent can be closed likewise, as it is normally the bottom part of the center seam in the back of the jacket. As you say, re-weaving a jacket vent would be (expensive) lunacy.
 

avedwards

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London and Midlands, UK
What I think the OP's tailor meant about the tweed suit's vents being part of the design was that many tweed suits are supposed to have vents. Tweed is used for sportier suits and the vents are therefore functional for certain outdoor activities (for example hacking jackets have a centre vent for horse riding).

However, for lounge suits it's a matter of preference and what suits your body shape. I personally prefer ventless. I've had a suit where the tailors in the shop (which offered free alterations) recommended the vent be closed when they took the waist in, and it was perfectly done. Even the inner lining was closed up where the vents had been. I had a dinner jacket which was perfect except for the side vents. I had a tailor close it up and it was perfectly done again, lining included.

Therefore, from personal experience I can conclude that closing up vents is possible and unnoticable afterwards by anyone capable of calling themselves a tailor.
 

Dave the Hick

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CA
I like a single vent myself. If you're in the habit of carrying anything bulky on your belt (say a phone, or a firearm), no vent or 2-vent simply don't work.
 

Jingo Mastapone

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50
Location
Oregon
I've closed both double and single vents on jackets of mine with perfect success. It's not difficult at all. The worst part about it is redoing the slipstitch at the bottom of the liner and that's only because it takes some manual dexterity--not much but more than sewing the straight line that closes the vent. I think everybody here should have a cheap sewing machine and be willing to try simple alterations like this. Get a cheap jacket from a thrift store and just go to work on it. I have to shorten almost all of the sleeves on my jackets and while it does take a bit of time, it's also very satisfying and cheaper than having a tailor do it. When you're in there you can also take the opportunity to tear out the cuff fusing and replace it with fabric if that's how your suit rolls and you have an interest.
 

carldelo

One Too Many
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Astoria, NYC
Jingo Mastapone said:
... I think everybody here should have a cheap sewing machine and be willing to try simple alterations like this...

I admire your perspicacity, but my DIY'ing ends with button-sewing, hat-bashing, simple carpentry and occasionally kayak building (2 so far, but I have big plans). I no longer tempt fate by tackling the arts that have the capacity to do significant damage to by body or ego, e.g. tailoring, plumbing, electrical work, tax returns, the laundry, etc. Just my little bit to keep the economy churning by hiring trained professionals.

Seriously though, I'm from a handy family and I agree with you in principle. But it only cost $20 to close the vents - it would have taken me at least a couple of hours and probably looked like crap. I like to think my time is worth more than $10/hour, even if I spend it reading instead of sewing (ok, grading papers is more like it). It's nice to know I have someone capable of doing this, so the next time I find a vented suit on sale that I like, I can buy it and know it is no big deal to alter.
 

H.Johnson

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1,562
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Midlands, UK
Bravo! I agree.

Jingo Mastapone said:
I've closed both double and single vents on jackets of mine with perfect success. It's not difficult at all. The worst part about it is redoing the slipstitch at the bottom of the liner and that's only because it takes some manual dexterity--not much but more than sewing the straight line that closes the vent. I think everybody here should have a cheap sewing machine and be willing to try simple alterations like this. Get a cheap jacket from a thrift store and just go to work on it. I have to shorten almost all of the sleeves on my jackets and while it does take a bit of time, it's also very satisfying and cheaper than having a tailor do it. When you're in there you can also take the opportunity to tear out the cuff fusing and replace it with fabric if that's how your suit rolls and you have an interest.
 

filfoster

One Too Many
carldelo said:
ISeriously though, I'm from a handy family and I agree with you in principle. But it only cost $20 to close the vents - it would have taken me at least a couple of hours and probably looked like crap. I like to think my time is worth more than $10/hour, even if I spend it reading instead of sewing (ok, grading papers is more like it). It's nice to know I have someone capable of doing this, so the next time I find a vented suit on sale that I like, I can buy it and know it is no big deal to alter.

Many of us have learnt some basic sewing skills-buttons, the odd button hole or a loose lining searm. Generally, cuffs, sleeves, anything very visible, I somehow just think the professional makes it look better, even if I could do it nearly as well. And there is the economy boost by giving them some work.
As far as the value of my time, honestly, I alternate between worthless and priceless.
 

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