My two favorite Cals and the best of each style I’ve come across that fit me.
I encounter Cal/Al's jackets fairly frequently when hunting in vintage stores across California, but usually they don't work out for me for one reason or another. These two, however, I hope to keep with me for a very long time.
Cal Straight Zip CHP - Unlabeled, made of an indestructible cow or horse, I figure a Cal. Maybe 70s? Brass Talon zips, no action back. Double stitch cuffs, 6.8 lbs
White label Cal - Main zip and one sleeve zip replaced, the other sleeve zip has a huge “Talon” pull. The hide is super shiny, possible horsehide? Action back, double stitch cuffs, 7.6 lbs
Beat up white label Cal - Really nice topcoat fade going on here, a former owner didn’t take the best care of this one, it’s coming undone in a fair number of places. That aside, it still wears pretty nicely despite being a size or two too big for me, fits like a 44. Lining in decent shape. Looks like someone ripped duct tape off the back. This one seems pretty old.
Still a really cool jacket despite its condition, but it’s headed for eBay.
Sleeve zip is ‘Talon’, main zip replaced with a YKK. Double stitch cuffs, 60° hand warmers, no action back, 6 lbs.
Updating my previous set with a new arrival (and with the heavy Als en route to a new owner it should fit better). Huge thanks to @Leather Walker For proxying this for me!
It’s essentially the twin of my other Als, exactly the same measurements and details, so I assume made as part of roughly the same production run—what are the chances? The only difference (other than the intact lining) is the hide, which is slightly lighter, stiffer and shinier. For whatever reason this makes the jacket sit slightly differently, which I love. The collar on this one in particular sits just how I like.
Of note:
Shoulder gussets
Pointed yoke
Single cuff stitching
Smaller lapels, rounded upper lapels
No beaver tail
Dull brass YKK hardware
70° Pocket angle
55/45 split above/below pocket seam
Black pocket lining
Weight: 2.3kg 5.2lb
For me this is just about as good as it gets (at least until I find a mid-heavy Cal in my size with no epaulettes or gussets!).
Also, this seems to be the right place to ask… Anyone know the official/stock method for tying off the side-laces? Have seen a few different techniques when receiving these.
Is it…
A) Both strands together in a single knot (using elastic to demonstrate as it’s easier to see the knots)
B) Double knot, strands opposing
C) Bow, strands opposing
Or a secret 4th knot? Forgive my lack of official knot terminology here…
Updating my previous set with a new arrival (and with the heavy Als en route to a new owner it should fit better). Huge thanks to @Leather Walker For proxying this for me!
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