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Can This Jacket Be Saved Through Tailoring?

Philalethes

A-List Customer
Messages
466
Location
Southern New Jersey, on a Farm
My "big" Christmas gift this year was an insulated blazer from L.L. Bean. The exterior is very soft Shetland wool and the insulation is a quilted polyester fill lining. The jacket is comfortable, warm, and has the nice additional feature of being able to button at the collar. It is really somewhere between a blazer and a coat, and I would be able to get a lot of use out of it in this cold climate.

Now the downside: I usually wear a size 40 jacket, but knowing L.L. Bean sizes run a little large, I ordered a 38. I was astonished, therefore, when I tried on the jacket for the first time and saw where the sleeves ended - almost at my knuckles! The jacket also needs to be taken in at the torso. However, I think the shoulders and body length are fine, so I don't want to downsize to a 38 S.

My questions are:
1) Is it worth tailoring this jacket?
2) What kind of complication would the insulated lining pose for a tailor?

Below are some thumbnails. I apologize for the quality.

Side view:


Front one button closed:


Front two buttons closed:


Back (the wrinkle is from shipping):
 

I Adore Film Noir

A-List Customer
Messages
480
Location
U.S.A.
Here's my two cents as someone who sews a little and Dad worked in the garment industry:

The shoulders are too big for you. They need to be re-cut and I think if this is done, it will also solve the slight droop in the torso.

Taking up the sleeves will be a piece of cake for the tailor.

I'd bring it to a tailor or two and get estimates.
 

Philalethes

A-List Customer
Messages
466
Location
Southern New Jersey, on a Farm
Here's my two cents as someone who sews a little and Dad worked in the garment industry:

The shoulders are too big for you. They need to be re-cut and I think if this is done, it will also solve the slight droop in the torso.

Taking up the sleeves will be a piece of cake for the tailor.

I'd bring it to a tailor or two and get estimates.

Thanks for your suggestions. Before reading your comments, I didn't think the shoulders were too large for me, but I think now that you may be right. I have read on another forum that re-cuting the shoulders is very difficult for tailors to do (and thus very expensive). If that is true, I don't want to go that route. (Instead I would just make a return.)
I figure the actual shortening of the sleeves would be easy, but because the sleeves are so long, the four buttons on the side would need to be placed higher and perhaps the "cut" extended so it goes higher up the fabric, too. How easy is that for a tailor to accomplish?
 
The whole thing's too big, though the length is bearable. I'd suggest trying a size down … trying on various size before exchanging, and exchanging it for the size that fits best, is probably the best option. As it is, the jacket would basically need a complete overhaul, including recutting all the pieces. Very expensive.

Some alteration may still be required even with the correct size as most people are not the "standard" sizes for which these RTW jackets are designed.

bk
 
Last edited:

Mike in Seattle

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,027
Location
Renton (Seattle), WA
Looks big overall to me as well. As suggested ready - I'd return it for a smaller size. You'll probably have to invest more tailoring than it's really worth. Start with the right general size and then have the usual tailoring tweaks done, rather than have it cut apart and rebuilt almost from scratch.
 

I Adore Film Noir

A-List Customer
Messages
480
Location
U.S.A.
Thanks for your suggestions. Before reading your comments, I didn't think the shoulders were too large for me, but I think now that you may be right. I have read on another forum that re-cuting the shoulders is very difficult for tailors to do (and thus very expensive). If that is true, I don't want to go that route. (Instead I would just make a return.)
I figure the actual shortening of the sleeves would be easy, but because the sleeves are so long, the four buttons on the side would need to be placed higher and perhaps the "cut" extended so it goes higher up the fabric, too. How easy is that for a tailor to accomplish?

I didn't notice the button detail on the sleeves and that will only add to the cost of tailoring. I don't know if it's expensive to re-cut the shoulders so now I'm going with Baron's and Mike's opinions to return it and try another size or style. I know it's exactly what you want but the fit doesn't flatter you.
 

Philalethes

A-List Customer
Messages
466
Location
Southern New Jersey, on a Farm
Thank you all for your honest appraisal. I expect that I will not exchange the coat, since the next sizes down are both short - 38S and 36S - and I am concerned with either of those fitting properly. The 38S will have the same shoulder problem, and I suspect the 36S may be too short. Instead I will return the coat and put the money towards my Aero jacket :)

The whole thing's too big, though the length is bearable.

Just wondering: I read on another forum that the bottom of a jacket should be flush with one's knuckles. Is that true?
 

Ed13

Familiar Face
Messages
65
Location
Toronto
RTW stands for Ready To Wear. As far as length, the jacket should cover your bottom. This is often better than trying to use your arms as guides since someone could have very long or short arms.
 

Tenorclef

One of the Regulars
Messages
137
Location
North Yorkshire, UK
I've had many jackets altered especially if i really like the jacket/suit the expense is a secondary issue for me. Some tailors are incredibly gifted and can work miracles.

Whilst having the shoulders altered is not an easy task, its a job any tailor worth his salt can do. That should then alter the arm length. Your jacket looks really nice.
 

Philalethes

A-List Customer
Messages
466
Location
Southern New Jersey, on a Farm
I've had many jackets altered especially if i really like the jacket/suit the expense is a secondary issue for me. Some tailors are incredibly gifted and can work miracles.

Whilst having the shoulders altered is not an easy task, its a job any tailor worth his salt can do. That should then alter the arm length. Your jacket looks really nice.

Thanks for the compliments on the jacket. Unfortunately, given my current station in life, expense is an issue for me (the Aero I am purchasing is to celebrate a very special occasion, and I took a second job for it).
 

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