Can anyone date my Knox?

[MattJH]

This is the only truly vintage hat I own. I did make a thread about it before after winning the eBay auction at a fantastic cost considering it's a 7 5/8 LO.

Does the '66' on the identification / price tag indicate it's from 1966? Does the original $14.95 tell us anything about the time it was sold?

 

[EricH]

I'm certainly not the most knowledgeable hat guy on the lounge, but these are the things I look for to give me an indication of a hats age. It goes band, brim, liner, felt, finishing, and sometimes tags (and box).

First the sweat band. If it is brown soft high grade leather it is older and/or of higher quality. The black bands that started showing up in the 50's on are lower cost and distinguish "mainstream" hats from upper shelf hats. On the higher quality hats they indicate that it is likely the end of the line time for that brand. Look for kitschy innovations like floating fit, adjustable sizes, and other fit features to be on the later hats of the 50's on.

Brim isn't a sure thing, but the stingy brims are likely 50's on. Roughly the stingier the brim the newer the hat. Wider brims are sigh timeless.

All rayon liners are usually 40's and earlier. The opaque topped liners seem to be mid 40's up to the 50's and the clear topped liners are 50's on. The liner also carries the brand logo. Many hats like stetson, mallory, and resistol had subtle or significant changes in the logo depending on the time of manufacture.

Good old felt. Squeeze it between your fingers. The older the hat is generally the better the felt is. Look for the XXX's that tell you that it is later 50's on vintage when they had to tell you how good the felt was. On a premium brand like Cavanagh if it doesn't feel buttery its again likely a more recent vintage. Pay attention to the color too. Is it neutral or is it rich and deeply pigmented.

Finishing is last. Is it a cavanagh edge, welted edge or a raw edge. Raw edges are cheaper than welted are cheaper than cavanagh. Is the ribbon basic black, or is it a complementary color chosen for the felt. Does the ribbon on the brim edge match the crown. How complex is the ribbon. Is it slapped on or carefully positioned? Does it have a nice kick to the tail. Details are expensive and in the 50's on they began to disappear. The killer is the way the liner is installed. Is it stitched in or glued? Glue is a 60's on kind of innovation.

Last but not least is the tag. Sometimes there is an indication of the year made. If it is a store tag it can include the month and year it was priced. Hat price is tricky since it reflects the value of the dollar at the time and the price point the market is willing to pay. A twenty was not a twenty in the sixties. If you know the box is original, that will help too. That folded up octagonal box is a lot cheaper than a pretty oval with special notation and detailing (and sometimes a date).

Well thats my continually changing criterion when I gauge a hat. I'm sure other people have comments as well. (How'd I do fellow loungers?) My guess is you do have a mainstream 60's hat. Wear it in good health and with style!

Eric

 

[Mr. 'H']

Late fifties....