cafe racer jackets: opinions on these linings and leather thickness

[Oakbark]

Hi all,
I know how I would like a CF jacket to fit on me, but I'm not sure if the kind of lining would change a lot the overall look.

Here below you can see some examples of jackets I like how they drape and fit on the wearers.

I suppose these above jackets have a lightweight lining, something like into the pic I'm attacching below:

Well, if my understading is correct, but please, let me know if I'm wrong about the linings of those jackets, how a quilted or heavyweight lining would change the fitting of a jacket?
I'm talking about heavier linings like these ones:

I really need to avoid a bulky look and I'm afraid a heavier lining would make me look like a sausage......and I've a couple of questions:
1) are those jackets (with the weares)all in similar leather? maybe steerhide?
2) what thickness would you say they are to fit and crease and drape that way? ( even if I'm aware are vintage jackets so well worn for many years.
3) do you have any example ( pics or links ) of someone wearing a jacket like those ones I've posted but that have for sure a heavy winter lining in order to see how the fit changes from a jacket with a lightweight lining.

Thanks for your time since now

 

[sweetfights]

They look to be 3 oz or less
I would personally go with a smooth lining like sateen

 

[dan_t]

Welcome to the Lounge!
Most of those jackets above frankly are too small for the wearer. They'd never be able to be zipped, particularly #2 & most likely #3.
If you're more into a fashion jacket & 'look' then you may not get the answers you're after here I'm afraid.

The overall 'fit' of the jacket will primarily come down to the cut and hide choice vs your own body shape. Lining (to a large extent) won't effect how it fit's your body, unless you're talking about something really thick, like Shearling.

 

[ProteinNerd]

It’s more the leather than the lining, these all look like pretty light weight leathers.

Just trawl eBay for a vintage 60s Brooks, I’d guess that’s what the first jacket is anyway...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Seb Lucas]

I suspect a couple of those a pretty thin steer hide (2.2 to 2.5oz) like Brooks leather and Beau Breed - two makes I have had various iterations of. They have also been worn A LOT. This make a huge difference to the look. A lot more than lining ever will.

How something fits will be down to the right measurements and the wear, then the leather and then the lining. You won't get that look from FQHH for years.

Your best bet may be to work out your sizes (maybe use a trim fitting denim jacket to base your measurements on) then buy a second hand cafe racer that has the drop and wear you like. None of those worn on the first three are likely to have been owned by the wearer since new. They look like they were bought by a stylist or from a retro leathers seller.

 

[Mark]

My wife thought you looked like a movie star! (ya swine!). They look super cool if a little tight,

 

[robrinay]

Lots of modern fashion jackets are made from thin nappa (lamb/sheep) leather so they drape a bit like cloth. They also tear really easily if you catch them on door furniture etc. Most of the jackets discussed here are made of tougher stuff - cowhide, horsehide or goatskin which may develop that kind of drape (or may not) after many years of wear. If you want the drape instantly then buy a thin nappa fashion jacket - take the fashion Police (your partner or a tasteful friend) with you when you purchase said jacket.

 

[jacketjunkie]

I agree the first jacket looks like a vtg Brooks, plenty of these on the bay, it's midweight cowhide, probably 2-2.
5 oz heavy. A leather jacket looks and drapes like that after years of wear, no matter what you buy new, it won't look like that. You should look at vtg jackets on eBay.

I'm also inclined to agree that the jackets in picture #2 and #3 are probably so tight their wearers couldn't zip them up if their lives depended on it. To say it in American English: Looks good, doesn't work, never gonna happen. If you buy a jacket as tight as these, you'll look like a sausage regardless of choice of liner, the second you try to zip it up.

 

[TREEMAN]

Those jackets are bought specifically to be worn un-zipped only. A quilted liner can make a big difference ......

 

[Oakbark]

Always great advices from you guys, thank you.
I forgot to say that I'm looking for a vintage jacket, not a new one and for sure not a nappa, lambskin one.
I agree the second jacket would never zip up and frankly it doesn't look so good; that jacket in particular should be with no lining at all if I remember right, ( jacket from an ebay listing ) while for the third one, I saw Theroux waring it also zipped up paired with something heavier than a simple t-shirt. This fact, following your opionions makes me thing his jacket has a lightweight lining for sure, like sateen as @sweetfights said.

And regarding the brands, yes I was looking for some vintage Brooks or Fidelity. I gave up with Vanson cause they look really thick even if have the best proportions for my body measurements.

I've also seen on youtube some Brooks jackets in action from the user: Terry Mitchell

It's noticeable from the vid, that are both lightweight jackets and also the lining is light.
I like how they fit on him, both zipped and unzipped and well, he's neither a fashion boy for sure, nor an athlete with the six pack abs
Now, what is missing to my "investigation" is seeing a 2 / 2,5 oz steerhide vintage CF with winter lining in action, someone wearing it.
Any pics or links would be really appreciated to still all doubts.

Thanks

 

[Monitor]

Always great advices from you guys, thank you.
I forgot to say that I'm looking for a vintage jacket, not a new one and for sure not a nappa, lambskin one.
I agree the second jacket would never zip up and frankly it doesn't look so good; that jacket in particular should be with no lining at all if I remember right, ( jacket from an ebay listing ) while for the third one, I saw Theroux waring it also zipped up paired with something heavier than a simple t-shirt. This fact, following your opionions makes me thing his jacket has a lightweight lining for sure, like sateen as @sweetfights said.
View attachment 91344

And regarding the brands, yes I was looking for some vintage Brooks or Fidelity. I gave up with Vanson cause they look really thick even if have the best proportions for my body measurements.

I've also seen on youtube some Brooks jackets in action from the user: Terry Mitchell

It's noticeable from the vid, that are both lightweight jackets and also the lining is light.
I like how they fit on him, both zipped and unzipped and well, he's neither a fashion boy for sure, nor an athlete with the six pack abs
Now, what is missing to my "investigation" is seeing a 2 / 2,5 oz steerhide vintage CF with winter lining in action, someone wearing it.
Any pics or links would be really appreciated to still all doubts.

Thanks

View attachment 91346
View attachment 91347
View attachment 91349
View attachment 91350

Padded / winter lining adds surprisingly much to the jacket, especially if it's lined throughout the sleeves.
I've had a Beau Breed which was is one of very few lighter vintage cafe racer jackets that are fully lined with an insulated lining. It does alter the look of the jacket, you can tell it's padded 'cause it's holding it's own shape and the sleeves look full and crease differently but it's not bad at all. Don't have any good photos of me wearing it but here's what I got.

This jacket was really lightweight. 2 oz or less at places.

 

[Oakbark]

@Seb Lucas I'm also sure those actors are not the first owners of their jackets: too many celebrities with leather vintage jackets from 60s' and 70s'.
The charm of leather vintage jackets is incomparable and they do not have propblems to get one.
Good point on taking the measurements on a trim fitting deim jacket; I always wondered what kind of jacket would be the most similar for understanding my own size for a leather jacket.
My concern about leather jackets measurements I see online is about the shoulders measurements. Most of the times the stated width is much narrower than the usual shoulders width I take on my clothes that have the same chest width of those ones online I'm checking. For example 22,5 inches at the chest line for both online leather jackets and my own jackets and just 17 or barely 18 inches for the online jackets shoulders width VS 18,5 / 18,7 inches for my jackets.
I doubt we're taking the measurements in 2 different way, maybe it depends on the armhole opening.
Any thoughts on this point?

 

[Oakbark]

@Monitor, thanks for the pics; yes I see what you mean. I've to say I would not complain at all about that fit: it looks very good.
It seems a good compromise ( lightweight leather with padded lining) talking about my aestethic taste.
I believe a heavier leather with the same winter lining would make me look like I do not want and was the confirmation or denial I was looking for by you experts

 

[Bjorn240]

View attachment 91317

This is the worst fit of a cafe racer I've ever seen. Jacket is 4 or 5 sizes too small.

 

[ton312]

This is the worst fit of a cafe racer I've ever seen. Jacket is 4 or 5 sizes too small.

Yes and I'm sure that seller is asking $10K

 

[Seb Lucas]

@Seb Lucas I'm also sure those actors are not the first owners of their jackets: too many celebrities with leather vintage jackets from 60s' and 70s'.
The charm of leather vintage jackets is incomparable and they do not have propblems to get one.
Good point on taking the measurements on a trim fitting deim jacket; I always wondered what kind of jacket would be the most similar for understanding my own size for a leather jacket.
My concern about leather jackets measurements I see online is about the shoulders measurements. Most of the times the stated width is much narrower than the usual shoulders width I take on my clothes that have the same chest width of those ones online I'm checking. For example 22,5 inches at the chest line for both online leather jackets and my own jackets and just 17 or barely 18 inches for the online jackets shoulders width VS 18,5 / 18,7 inches for my jackets.
I doubt we're taking the measurements in 2 different way, maybe it depends on the armhole opening.
Any thoughts on this point?

Leather jackets probably need narrower shoulders than a suit coat, for instance. For me a size 42 needs around a 19 inch shoulder width. I am six two and 183 pounds. A lot of size 42 jackets have a shoulder width of 18.5 or thereabouts. The key to a trim look in a leather jacket is ensuring the shoulders don't hang loose towards your upper arm. Many people think this is how leather should look and Indiana Jones may well be responsible for that look since Ford's jackets in the film are baggy. Not the right look for a cafe racer.

My Brooks cafe racer size 46 (which fits like a 42-44) has 18.75 shoulders and it fits fine.

 

[zebedee]

Mid-weight black goatskin with sateen lining. Would get the drape you are looking for and be light to wear without being fragile.

 

[ton312]

If I could I'd ask Aero to build me one in kangaroo. Super light and strong as steel. I've always loved this roo BR.

 

[Oakbark]

Great advices about the (shoulders/chest proportions) for leather jackets and what leather and lining would be the best choice for what I described.

 

[Oakbark]

Would you say these jackets have same/similar weight?

the one of the right

compared with this one:

first 2 pics: the leather seems thicker than the leather on the last 2 pics

My apologies for posting pics of actors and asking questions that are almost the same of the previous ones; just that I'm located in Europe and most of the vintage jackets I'm looking at are in the U.S, so you can imagine.......