Bow Tie with WIng Collar

[OldDealer]

How should the bow tie be worn? Should the tie be under the wings or on top of the wings.
Ron; Los Angeles

 

[manton]

Traditionally, the bow is worn on top of (outside) the wings of the collar.

 

[Fletch]

In the 1920s and before, wings were frequently worn over the tie. Since then, tucking them under the tie has been more correct.

Generally, the bigger the wings, the more likely you should wear them under the tie.

 

[manton]

With a hard, detachable wing collar, it's pretty much impossible to wear the tie behind the wings.

 

[Orgetorix]

With a hard, detachable wing collar, it's pretty much impossible to wear the tie behind the wings.

It depends on the size and angle of the wings, doesn't it?

 

[manton]

The ones sold at (say) Budd in London don't look like that. Wolfe gets his shirts custom made in the US, specifically to have that pre-30s look.

 

[Fletch]

The ones sold at (say) Budd in London don't look like that.

What do they look like?

 

[Orgetorix]

The ones sold at (say) Budd in London don't look like that. Wolfe gets his shirts custom made in the US, specifically to have that pre-30s look.

I've assumed he wears detachable collars with his evening shirts, from the look of them. Do you know that to be wrong?

What do they look like?

I can't say for sure, as I've never been there and they don't have a website that I know of. However, most other British shops that have a web presence seem to sell rebadged Luke Eyres collars, which look like this:

 

[manton]

I believe that Wolfe's collar is detachable, just desinged to be worn with the wings up.

A Budd collar looks like one above left, but with bigger wings.

 

[Orgetorix]

I believe that Wolfe's collar is detachable, just desinged to be worn with the wings up.

A Budd collar looks like one above left, but with bigger wings.

I wonder if his collar is also bespoke.

 

[manton]

I wonder if his collar is also bespoke.

Oh, don't wonder. It definitely is.

 

[Orgetorix]

Oh, don't wonder. It definitely is.

Now I wonder how much AK charges for those. I don't think I want to know.

 

[manton]

Now I wonder how much AK charges for those. I don't think I want to know.

Shockingly close to four figures.

 

[Fletch]

Orge, my Brooks collar looks like the high model in your blue photo.

 

[Jovan]

I haven't seen any examples of curved wing collars... is that solely a British thing like no gauntlet buttons on shirts?

 

[Orgetorix]

One of the first times I realized how good a stiff detachable wing collar could look was when I saw Craig Bierko (as Max Baer) wearing one in Cinderella Man. His collar wings weren't pressed flat with a sharp crease, but beautifully curved. I haven't seen any modern collars like it.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I haven't seen any examples of curved wing collars... is that solely a British thing like no gauntlet buttons on shirts?

Wing collars with rounded (not pointed) tips were once international. They were not usually worn with tuxedos, but rather with daytime (business) wear. Pre 1920, for the most part, though the Brits continued wearing them after that. These rounded-tip collars tended to be quite high, usually 2 1/4 inches or more. They show up on eBay from time to time.

 

[Orgetorix]

Wing collars with rounded (not pointed) tips were once international. They were not usually worn with tuxedos, but rather with daytime (business) wear. Pre 1920, for the most part, though the British continued wearing them after that. These rounded-tip collars tended to be quite high, usually 2 1/4 inches or more. They show up on eBay from time to time.

Oh...I must have misunderstood the sense of "curved."

 

[Marc Chevalier]

... I must have misunderstood the sense of "curved."

Or I did. Now I'm not sure [huh]

.

 

[Jovan]

I meant the former example posted. I was just asking because I actually saw Charles Tyrwhitt shirts have curved wings for their formal wear.