BK Willis and Geiger M422-an excellent jacket!

[aswatland]

My W&G M422 jacket arrived today. It was posted in Greece on Monday, so four days to get to me in the UK is impressive. BK's customer service has is first rate.

This is my first BK jacket and I'm delighted with it. Originals from this contract date to the fiscal year of 1940. The goatskin varied from almost a russet to dark seal brown. This one is made from dark seal goatskin, which has much character already and will only get better through wearing. I have compared it with pictures of originals and must say BK have replicated the contract extremely well. The soft mouton is far superior to anything I have seen on ELC naval jackets. This jacket is a size 44 and has room for movement. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

 

[aswatland]

 

[aswatland]

 

[too much coffee]

Very impressive looking jacket Andrew. Looks like the fit is right where it needs to be as well.
I was getting concerned because of the recent procurement issue for the mouton. I'm glad you received it and that mouton is a fantastic color.

Regards,
coffee

 

[Metatron]

Perfect!

 

[Aerojoe]

Looks great! I like a lot the hide texture.

BTW, what's wrong with ELC's soft mouton? In pictures it looks similar to this one. I think both producers source their hides from Italy.

 

[Jeff M]

Looks great! I like a lot the hide texture.

BTW, what's wrong with ELC's soft mouton? In pictures it looks similar to this one. I think both producers source their hides from Italy.

Lots of discussion about this over at the VLJ forum. (Comments copied from that discussion.)

According to accounts there, much of the mouton being produced today;

"doesn't have quite the right look and feel; starts too wavy/curly out of the box,",
"is the wrong color and/or hair too short",
"With old mouton they used different techniques that are no longer used anyway thats what John C told me. The difference is in many cases striking though. Old mouton when brushed one way to the other shows a marked and bigger difference in light and dark than newer mouton. Also it stays straight and soft much longer than modern mouton."
"The problem is if you look at the stuff Eastman and many of the repro makes use it reminds me of the mouton from the mid late 1960s is with time it gets rough and real matted." ......"My Eastman G&F M-422a started nice enough but rapidly changed .... Thats my point about most modern mouton."

"A mouton observation.
i spent a number of years in the sheep ranching business. There are basically 2 classifications of sheep breeds: medium wool and fine wool. most medium wool sheep are selected for meat production and wool is a 2nd consideration. most of the wool from medium wool breeds are used for carpeting, etc. fine wool breeds are selected for wool quality and their wool is used for clothing.
as a G-1 fan, i've seen lots of mouton. the mouton in the three pictures previous to my post are probably from a medium wool breed. the older mouton in vintage jackets is usually from fine wool breeds.
the difference is just what the classification says. on the older, fine wool mouton, the fibers are smaller in diameter and much softer and more pliable. this is effect where, when you brush the mouton different directions, the color changes a bit.
i have bought a number of ~1950s-rea ladies mouton coats. as others have said, it's a bit of a gamble on color and fiber length. but you can definitely tell if it is the type mouton you want.
the mouton in the last 3 pix here are not nearly as comfortable to wear as the softer, vintage fine wool mouton.
i know all of your were extremely interested in a study of sheep breeds."

As with leather...I don't think it matters what country it comes from as much as what the specific supplier/manufacturer is producing. Italy has some fine leather producers...but....still got to find the right ones producing just what you are are looking for in enough quantity and when you need it.
I get the impression, as with capeskin, it's not easy finding suppliers with hides with the same qualities as that used in the "vintage" days. Even in Italy.

 

[Brettafett]

Very nice Andrew. Thats going to look really lovely in the not to distant future... I received my BK samples this week and this goat is great.
If I may ask... this is a 44. What size Aeroleather 15142 would you wear (assuming you have had one?) How tall are you? Thanks

 

[FAFOO68]

Hello Andy,
Very nice jacket, i hesitate between the W&G and the G&F.
The size tag is 44, is the jacket is true to size or you have enough place to put a sweater ? (according to your regular size).
Regards,
F68

 

[Fletch]

Great looking jacket. But aren't the sleeves wrong for the original W&G contract unless they're way too short? lol

 

[Aerojoe]

"My Eastman G&F M-422a started nice enough but rapidly changed .... Thats my point about most modern mouton."

Ok, this makes sense.

 

[Edward]

Cracking looking jacket, Andrew. How do you find the sizing? I think you and I wear the same size in an A2 (Current Aero or ELC 42 / wartime 44)? I'm thinking of a BK Russett A2 in time... I did correspond with them recently (was looking at a House A2 at the sale price, but they didn't have one big enough - I typically require a jacket that measures 46" in an A2 design...), hopefully in future...

 

[Stearmen]

Are you going to sew a Blood Chit on the back? Also a painted Adam & Eve, Panda Bear or Hells Angel on the left chest would really look good!

 

[aswatland]

Are you going to sew a Blood Chit on the back? Also a painted Adam & Eve, Panda Bear or Hells Angel on the left chest would really look good!

Why on earth would I want to do that?

 

[bburtner@moran]

Sir,BK,who are they if I might ask.Brian.

 

[aswatland]

Bill Kelso.

http://www.billkelsomfg.com/site/#!home

 

[bburtner@moran]

Cheers.

 

[ButteMT61]

Why on earth would I want to do that?

I thought you were doing this one Andrew?

lol

 

[aswatland]

Of course Scott and the work is almost finished.

 

[Phantomfixer]

Is this a copy of the A-2 on display at the AF Museum in Ohio? I have seen this artwork before...and I am thinking the museum...very nice
Andrew nice to see you out of an A-2 great looking jacket hide looks like it should develope nicely and of course the collar rocks...
John