Better fit.

[bolthead]

Here you go Dave,


http://fedoralounge.skyblueproductions.net/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1598&highlight=cork:cool2: :cool2:

this link didn't work for me....? [huh]

 

[fatwoul]

Nobody suggesting this chap try the lampshade trick? Is that frowned upon over here? Too abusive to headbands or something?

 

[Art Fawcett]

Welcome to the Lounge Mike, I hope you enjoy your stay. We already know you've done some research by brining up an almost 3 year old thread.

This thread was started when I was still a well kept secret working only for a small circle of friends and maintaining my own collection of hats for film industry rentals and for our Vintage clothing biz. In Jan 2006 I opened for biz as VS Custom Hats and by summer that year it became clear that I couldn't do both renovations and new hat designs, so I stopped taking "outside" work other than for my Bespoke clients.
You haven't mentioned what the problem is. Are they too big as this thread would suggest?

 

[pgoat]

Is there a thread listing reputable people to do resizing, rebuilds repairs etc., now that Art no longer does? Or feel free to pass along some names and contact info for those of us who have some old lids in need of some TLC.........

 

[ideaguy]

Fatwoul- it's not the hatbands that suffer; the humiliation a proper
lampshade endures at wild parties isn't enough?? now you insist on
mounting ill-fitting pelts of innocent lil' beavers?? oh-I can't stand it...

 

[duggap]

Pgoat, I think most people from the lounge are recommending Graham at Optimo for repairs, etc. There may be some of the western hatters who still do that sort of work. I know Graham receives a lot of compliments.

 

[pgoat]

Thank you, Duggap. I would certainly send my ailing oldtimers to Optimo based on their rep. If I ever Visit Chicago I'd try to stop in for a new hat there as well.

I asked on here because I got the impression there are some aspiring hat makers/repairers who post regularly, and wanted to throw some business their way....just wasn't sure who they might be.

 

[J.T.Marcus]

I asked on here because I got the impression there are some aspiring hat makers/repairers who post regularly, and wanted to throw some business their way....just wasn't sure who they might be.

I've been asked, but while I can please myself, I'm not yet ready to please customers. However, You could be one of those aspiring hatmakers.

I have tried the "shrink the whole thing" approach. I got a hat that fit, but never felt right. The problem is that the crown (felt) and the sweatband (leather) don't shrink the same amount. The result is usually a puckered sweatband that may fit, but feels uncomfortable. If you can use a needle and thread, and are patient, you can bring the size down, and it will feel good. Here's how:

1. Using a sharp knife, cut the stitches that hold the sweatband in, and remove it from the hat.
2. Do the same with the ribbon (hatband).
3. Soak the hat body in cold water. If it needs cleaning, use woolite or mild dishwashing detergent. then do a rinse soak.
4. Hang the body up to drip dry. Make sure it is in the shape you want.
5. Using a belt that you have made to fit like a hatband on a proper size hat, slide this belt onto the crown of the hat you are downsizing.
6. Let the body (with the belt in place) dry for about three days.
7. Clip the seam at the back of the sweatband.
8. Looking in a mirror, wrap the sweatband around your head, to fit, and overlap the ends. Use a ballpoint pen to draw a line along the edge of the end that is on top.
9. Line the end up with the mark you made and, using a needle and thread, tack the sweatband together.
10. Sew the sweatband back into the body. You can use the holes that are punched in the sweatband. Just make sure your outer stitches are positioned so that they will be hidden by the ribbon, when you put it back on.
11. Sew the ribbon back in place.
12. If anything needs reshaping, soak the hat in cold water for a few minutes. Then reshape it, and let the hat dry in that shape.
13. It takes two or three days to dry. Try it on several times during this period. This will give you the proper oval for your head.

Have fun, J.T.Marcus

 

[Art Fawcett]

JT, I know you mean well and like you say, you've been able to please yourself using your methods, but reading your post gives me the cold sweats. What you are telling others is that they can shrink a hat without benefit of any equipment, without anything to control the amount of shrinkage, without anything to control the unfinished shape, without the use of a simple cloth tape measure...frankly I find this frightening on a number of levels.

Gent's, if you are comfortable having absolutely no control over what the felt is going to do, then follow this method. Otherwise I would ask that you send your hats to Optimo, Jimmy Pierce ( jpdesign), Mike Moore ( majormoore), JW hats, or any other hatter that has taken the time and money to learn the craft and invest in the equipment that is absolutely necessary to do the job right.

I mean no offense JT, but I have visions of piles of misshaped vintage beauties and angry hat owners telling themselves " but he SAID I could do it this way". It isn't the $15 BCF junk that I worry about, it's that rare treasure that has earned being treated better.

 

[majormoore]

I have to agree with Art on this one.

Mike Moore

 

[L HATLEY]

hat re sizing

:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap
I'll sitck with the pros .

 

[J.T.Marcus]

Art, Please don't take offense at anything I am about to say.

I did ruin a hat, about eight years ago. I had an old grey fur felt fedora, which had always been one size too big. I had no access to a forum such as this, nor to any "how to" books, at that time. I tried to shrink it by soaking it in HOT water, then drying it real fast with a HAIR DRYER. The result was smaller, but the felt was so "bumpy," I was never able to smooth it out again.

It was years before I tried to "size" a hat again. This time I did considerable research and planning, before attempting the project. I also started with a hat of little value, which I could afford to mess up. (As has been stated often in this forum, every do-it-yourselfer should start that way, and gradually work up to better items.) What I outlined is the result of a lot of learning and hard work.

As far as uncontrolled shrinking is concerned, we both know that fur felt doesn't want to shrink. What I outlined does not shrink the felt, it compresses it from the outside, using a belt which has been presized to fit a hat of the desired size, in place of the hat band (ribbon). The felt is also pulled inward by the stitches in the sweatband (which has been made to fit the EXACT head size. The result is controlled compression of the felt, and this compression is only in the sweatband/ribbon area of the hat. A happy side benefit is that this reduces crown taper, which many here find objectionable, in the first place.

There are, and always will be do-it-yourselfers in this hobby. We will always want to share our discoveries with each other. There are risks!
Do it yourself only if you are willing to take the risk.

I should have added the following: "If you are artistically and mechanically challenged, don't try it yourself. Pay somebody else to do it for you."

Thank-you, Art, for looking out for my legal interests.

 

[Art Fawcett]

JT, I don't normally take offence when I know that others are genuine in their opinions and intentions so no worries there. I DO think your reference to "legal interests" is unnecessary as we both know that isn't where my post was going so it's just a jab on your part.

Now, YOUR idea of felt not shrinking is complete news to me. Since the entire hat is made by stretching, then letting it shrink to a block for a period of time to "set" the felt to minimize the shrinking part of the process after it's finished is a major part of the learning curve. If shrinking were NOT a part of hatting we wouldn't have the complaints of tapering ( shrinking) that you refer to nor would we have the common modern problem of losing it's shape after a rain storm. That shape loss is basically shrinking of the felt and since I have never been in a "hot water" rainstorm I know this to be true even in cold water. I DO agree that hot water will activate it faster and to a higher degree, but simply stating that cold water won't shrink it or "doesn't want" to shrink it is completely wrong and I believe a disservice to our members. It simply is not true information.

The overall tone of your post is a good one as I know you are trying to be helpful but at the same time, you are telling our members, do it yourselfers or not, that tools and hat knowledge aren't necessary to get a "good" job with this procedure. To do this CORRECTLY takes tools, knowledge, and experience. If one doesn't care about losing a crisp bandline, smooth crown, cleanly shaped brim, and all the other details that go into a good job, then they are welcome to your methods. I suppose that beauty is all in the eyes of the beholder and what makes a "correct" job is debatable but I cannot let your statements that I know to be incorrect to stand unchallenged.

There really ARE jobs that should be left to the hatter despite your opinions of them. Also, please note, should you doubt my motives, that I did not recommend anything be sent to me so I have no fininacial motive for my post. My interest is in accurate info and informed choices.

 

[Technonut]

test

Little Caesar?

 

[Art Fawcett]

ahh, huh? The meaning of your post is flying over my head Techno..help an old man out?

 

[Technonut]

ahh, huh? The meaning of your post is flying over my head Techno..help an old man out?

I was just wondering if that pic was from the 1931 movie Little Caesar... [huh]

 

[J.T.Marcus]

There really ARE jobs that should be left to the hatter despite your opinions of them.

Please understand that I have the highest regard for custom hatters, yourself included. I am currently awaiting delivery of a new hat which is being built by Jimmy Pierce (J.P. Designs).