Bespoke Tailoring

[Etienne]

Could any of you gentlemen tell me what Bespoke Tailoring is/means? I am looking on eBay for a suit for our son and the one I am considering is a 1960wool "indie mod skinny suit". Would this even be a good choice for him? He's 27, very into the retro British look and a VERY difficult fit. He's 6'2 1/2 and only 148 lbs. (The men in our family range from 6' 2 to 6'11 andd they are all very slim, though none as slim as he is...) Anyway, if this isn't a good choice, can you suggest something else??? Every single clothes-buying experience is a major struggle and we wanted to get him a suit for his 27th birthday. He likes the look of this suit but the bids are getting way up there so I don't know if it's worth it or if the suit will serve him for long...

Thanks for any information or advice you have!--Etienne

 

["Doc" Devereux]

Bespoke tailoring is another way of saying "Custom", in that the specifications are 'spoken' to the tailor. If one has a bespoke garment made it will fit perfectly and every facet of the garment will be exactly as one would have it, as there are no compromises involved.

As you might imagine, such garments are expensive. On the other hand there is nothing more comfortable, better made or as likely to last a lifetime.

Sadly the art is in something of a decline in the face of modern off the rack clothing and the rise of designer cach?©, leading to the protest mentioned in this thread.

 

[Etienne]

Thanks, Doc, for the education! I was very glad I read the article and the posts--it makes a lot more sense now. Regards, Etienne

 

[scotrace]

Best Source of Information

Is from the tailor's mouth:

English Cut

 

["Doc" Devereux]

Is from the tailor's mouth:

English Cut

Oh boy, there goes the evening... lol

 

[scotrace]

You are most welcome, Sir.

 

[silhouette53]

Is from the tailor's mouth:

English Cut

Jeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeez !! At those prices I'd be scared to leave the house in one of those suits !!!lol lol lol

 

[Etienne]

Okay, I need financial guidance here, gentlemen. What would be a high price for such a suit and what would be a decent price???

 

[Etienne]

Remember, we're talking eBay here! I saw the prices on the link--OMGosh! But for eBay...?

 

[Tony in Tarzana]

I always thought "Bespoke" meant that the suit was "Spoken for" before it was made. As for prices, our own Indy Magnoli's prices seem quite reasonable.

Boy, I placed my order with him two weeks ago, and the time is dragging along. I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas. I'll be patient though, I know good things come to those who wait.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Unless it was a very rare-type vintage suit, i wouldn't pay more than $100 on eBay for a suit. It's just not worth the money (especially if it's a gift for someone) ... Also i would never believe an eBay seller. This suit may not even be bespoke. You won't know until it arrives.

But i'm a supreme tightwad. If the suit measurements sound perfect to you, buy it. You will not be disappointed.

bk

 

[Wolfmanjack]

Hello Etienne,

As a habitual buyer of suits on eBay, I can assure you that BK is offering excellent advice. Here is still more advice:

Ask the seller for a plethora of measurements. Ask for these on the jacket while buttoned and lying flat: shoulders (seam-to-seam across the back), chest (seam-to-seam 2 in below armpit, doubled), waist (seam-to-seam at center button, doubled), skirt (seam-to-seam at hemline, doubled), arms (2 measurements: shoulder seam to cuff & armpit to cuff) and finally length (collar seam to hem, down the back).

Ask for these measurements on the trousers: waist (side-to-side lying flat, doubled), seat (side-to-side lying flat, doubled), inseam (crotch-to-cuff), outseam (waist-to-cuff), which will give you the rise (outseam minus inseam).

Compare these data to a suit that feels comfortable and looks good on your son. You may want to visit a good men’s store for advice on how a suit should fit on your son’s body. The better the store, the better the advice. For a tall man like your son, the length of the jacket and the rise of the trousers are especially critical. Both of these are almost impossible for a tailor to alter. Be sure to ask the seller about extra fabric to let out for any other measurement that is even a little short.

If you are paying over $100 for a suit on eBay, the jacket should be fully lined and the trousers lined to the knees with facing on the inside seams of the seat and crotch. Fabric content should be 100% wool, cashmere blend, or other fine natural material. Ask about any rips, tears, thread pulls, wear, moth holes, fraying, loose seams, spots, stains, or bad smells. Examine the photos carefully for the pattern match at the shoulders, lapels, sleeves, pockets, etc.

I hope you find this helpful. Regards,

 

[Etienne]

Thanks very much for the advice and information! I got all of the measurements and they appeared to all be fine--though I guess I won't really know until it arrives. Mr. Misanthropy exchanged a good bit of information with me as well and, though the price was quite steep, I think I made a good choice. I'm praying it will fit him well. When you have a really hard-to-fit person maybe it takes a bit more sleuthing. I appreciate all of you who responded.

 

[Wolfmanjack]

I wish you the best of luck with the suit Etienne. As you describe your son, being quite tall and slim, I think he has the potential to look really quite elegant in a well-fitting suit. Once it arrives, perhaps you could post a photo here of him in his new ensemble.

Regards,

 

[Etienne]

I'll give it my best shot...!

 

[Mr_Misanthropy]

As you well know, Etienne, I think you did just fine. Considering how hard it is to find a suit for someone so tall, I think you'll be happy with this suit. And as mentioned before, some pics would be great!

 

[Etienne]

Well, you walked me through getting an avatar posted :eusa_clap so I think I'll be able to post a picture of him (my first picture post ever!) Thanks!

 

[Etienne]

HOLY MOLY! The suit I got on eBay for our son arrived today--it is GORGEOUS!!!! Beautiful, beautiful tailoring, exquisite wool fabric, classy weave. Wow. He's at work and can't come by to try it on until late tonight so I can't comment on the fit just yet, though it looks very promising. As soon as I can I will post pictures. I am so relieved that it was just as described on eBay. WOW again!--Etienne

 

[Mr_Misanthropy]

:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

I'm so happy everything worked out!! I'm sure it'll fit perfectly. Good eBaying, Etienne.

 

[Etienne]

Thank YOU, Jeremiah, for your imput and advice. What a wonderful suit this is! Woohoo!!!!! --Etienne