Berets, Anyone?

[JimK]

Laulhère béret bayadère in the 11p diameter - size 61cm:

 

[LeFonque]

Wearing my Laulhère 10. A cool spring morning in Melbourne. The next beret will be 11.

 

[RJR]

Chilly prelude to a winter storm;CZ navy military.

 

[Daan]

It was in 2012 that I proudly announced on The Beret Project that I had been able to source some true Peaked Berets. Peaked berets were popular in France during the early 1900s, but by the 1970s the production had completely stopped.

One year later, Laulhère too realized the desire for peaked berets and introduced a line of casquettes.

Boneteria Auloronesa introduced it's own take on peaked berets right from the beginning, based on their 10p beret model, including the liguette (the internal drawstring to adjust the size) - probably the most comfortable model to be found.

Over the years, more models got added to the stock. South Pacific Berets set up its own range of Boneteria Aotearoa casquettes; Boinas Elosegui introduced two new designs: the Pirineos and the Soleil and I persuaded FEZCO-TONAK to reintroduce some of their famous models that were big successes during the 1950s and 1960s.

To complete the range, I also added some models that are not berets in the true sense of the word, but caps of exceptional quality with such a long (and interesting) history that they really deserve a place at SPB. These are the Boinas Portuguesas from the Serra de Estrella and the casquette in burel by Le Laboureur.

With the choice in peaked berets having grown so much, I created a one-stop-page at South Pacific Berets, with links to all relevant pages.
Thinking back, I find it hard to believe that less than 10 years ago, it was virtually impossible to find a true peaked beret...

 

[alanfgag]

Tumeric... because it's good for you.

 

[Daan]

French emigration to Argentina originated mainly from the Basque Country, Béarn and the Périgord, while Basques from the other side of the (French-Spanish) border were keen settlers in South America too.

The first immigrants focused on Uruguay; Argentina was second choice. Immigrants were lured with big promises of opportunities and next-to-free land, which turned out far from the truth and many newcomers spent their life in economic misery.
Instead of owning land, they worked as peasants for the large land owners or got stuck in the cities doing low-level jobs. This is of course where the tango originates.

Basque dairymen in B.A.
There were exceptions though; a good number of Basques and Béarnais made their fortunes from shearing sheep and the meat industry.

In the pampas, many became estancers; devoting themselves to breeding cattle and dairy production. This resulted in often violent and deadly clashes with the gauchos, who named them ‘lechero gringos’.

In the late 1880s, a (French) Basque named Bautista Heguy, passionate about both horses and polo, started investing in horses. Several generations of his descendants competed at world level in this sport and they laid the basis for beret wearing among all people involved in raising and training horses.

Since then, beret (or boina) wearing has become pretty much universal among gauchos, farmers, peasants and people working outdoors and in the country.

All these berets, in merino wool and cotton, can be found here.

 

[RevPhil]

My beret is black with a flash of the US Naval Special Warfare Unit where I earned it! I was a Gunners Mate and Boat Captain on River Patrol Boats (PBR's) in the United States Navy (remember the VietNam era book "Brown Water/Black Beret"). I still wear it on special occasions such as Veterans Day and Memorial Day.

 

[GrayEyes]

Looks on you. By the way . . . Stefan Zweig, Elias Canetti, DH Lawrence, et al.? You've got some great reading there!

Laulhère béret bayadère in the 11p diameter - size 61cm:

 

[GrayEyes]

On the topic of berets in Argentina, I recently received this catalogue, where a beret is modeled by famous chef and noted boinero Francis Mallmann!

 

[Daan]

On the topic of berets in Argentina, I recently received this catalogue, where a beret is modeled by famous chef and noted boinero Francis Mallmann!

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Francis Mallmann (born 1956) is an Argentine celebrity chef, author, and restaurateur who specializes in Argentine, and especially Patagonian cuisine, with a focus on various Patagonian methods of barbecuing food.

Mallmann was one of the chefs featured in the documentary "Chef's Table."

Mallman began working in television in the early 1980's. Between 1987 and 1996, the program was recorded in his restaurant and, in the summer months, in Punta del Este. His visibility in television significantly influenced the reach and scope of his work and always wearing a (Tolosa Tupida)-beret certainly profiles berets positively!

Mallmann is especially known for his use of cooking techniques indigenous to Argentina, or more specifically Patagonia, where he resides.

In November 2015, Francis Mallmann opened his first restaurant outside South America, Los Fuegos by Francis Mallmann in Miami, Florida at the Faena Hotel. The restaurant showcases Mallmann's signature dishes and cooking techniques, and serves authentic Argentine cuisine. Mallmann was present at the grand opening and visits the restaurant often.

Not much vegetarian fare at Mallman's restaurants though...

 

[Cepice]

Advise welcome please.
My first beret was 20 years ago, a thin, light one, probably a woman's. I could pull it long and forward, and it looked wonderful with an old quilted barn jacket.

I now have two berets: an old Jaxon beret missing the leather sweatband and a Elosequi Impermiable missing the tip.

I love the softness of the Jaxon, it's light, shapes well and it's easy to forget. Without the band it has a naked edge and is a bit ragged. Love it though.

I can't quite warm up to the other, it's heavy, ponderous. Doesn't have a sharp edge and doesn't have those nice indents like we see in the photos. It sort of keeps shape but doesn't, so it looks like I'm wearing a great, black Mento. It wears me like some kind of surly, parasitic mushroom compelling it's host on a walking tour.

What can be done? I really want to enjoy the Elosequi, but can't find the right way of wearing it. Any suggestions beyond 'buy a new one'?

 

[Bouwerij_Jongen]

Francis Mallmann (born 1956) is an Argentine celebrity chef, author, and restaurateur who specializes in Argentine, and especially Patagonian cuisine, with a focus on various Patagonian methods of barbecuing food.


Looks like BBQ porn to me.
Now I feel inadequate with my simple backyard charcoal grill.
Not sure I can set up a large wood fired BBQ pit in my backyard.
It sure looks fun and smoky to BBQ over a wood fire.

The photos remind me of the Instagram account of @Gueulton a restaurant
in Royan, France where the pictures are of big beefy guys wearing berets and
BBQing big racks of meat over wood fires.

The beret in the Best Made catalog is a Laulhere.
Looks very nice and should be well made.
Plus, It has a special Best Made logo.

 

[Daan]

Advise welcome please.
My first beret was 20 years ago, a thin, light one, probably a woman's. I could pull it long and forward, and it looked wonderful with an old quilted barn jacket.

I now have two berets: an old Jaxon beret missing the leather sweatband and a Elosequi Impermiable missing the tip.

I love the softness of the Jaxon, it's light, shapes well and it's easy to forget. Without the band it has a naked edge and is a bit ragged. Love it though.

I can't quite warm up to the other, it's heavy, ponderous. Doesn't have a sharp edge and doesn't have those nice indents like we see in the photos. It sort of keeps shape but doesn't, so it looks like I'm wearing a great, black Mento. It wears me like some kind of surly, parasitic mushroom compelling it's host on a walking tour.

What can be done? I really want to enjoy the Elosequi, but can't find the right way of wearing it. Any suggestions beyond 'buy a new one'?

I think I know exactly what you mean, but apart from shining some light on the why's & how's, I fear there is not a lot you can do about it.
First, it is interesting that your Jaxon beret doesn't give you the trouble your Elósegui does, as most Jaxon's were actually made by Boinas Elósegui. However, Laulhère too had made Jaxon berets (for a short period) and your model may be made by Laulhère - a softer, lower density beret compared to the Elósegui model.

Anyway, your Elósegui beret (assuming it is a Super Lujo) is made in the densest, tightest knit of any beret to be found. This makes these berets such excellent insulators (easy to wear in both winter and summer) and very long lasting.
The downside is that these berets are harder to break in and remain pretty stiff; it takes time to shape the beret and shape it in a desired fashion. Best advise I can give is to persevere; keep wearing it, always in the same way (keep the label as guide to what's front and rear), pull it slightly to the front and consistently 'tweak' it in the same places (typically at the front) to give it it's indents. Overtime, it will grow on you and you'll learn to love it.
Of course, a much easier (and faster) way, (despite coming from the other side of the world), is to order yourself a beret of similar quality but in a lighter density knit. Auloronesas are the best examples of such.

 

[Cepice]

However, Laulhère too had made Jaxon berets (for a short period) and your model may be made by Laulhère - a softer, lower density beret compared to the Elósegui model.

Yes, Daan, I think you describe the Jaxon exactly. Very lightweight and much softer. Both are years several years old. The Elósegui is a Super Lujo purchased from Ron Greer years ago. Interesting that you say it can be worn in summer, I wouldn't have thought.

@Daan, I have to say that your Bonetaria Aotearoas berets are really beautiful. Well done and congratulations! The labels are charming and I love the linings you've chosen. I'll be buying one soon, I'm just torn between the paua and the green lining.

 

[Daan]

When I state that 'some berets are more popular than others', I am sure I'll meet little disagreement, nor compliments for coming to such a conclusion.
Typically, one would think of differences in quality in price, but strangely, there are some absolutely fantastic berets out here at a very reasonable price that simply are not popular sellers. Why is that?

I honestly don't know and can only guess. When thinking of some Czech models (e.g. the Super Luxury Winter and Tartan 11.5" models), I have wondered if it is because of the country of manufacturing; there are customers who believe that "real berets" only come from France and/or Spain, but then, no one seems to be bothered by berets made in Italy or Argentina? It is not an anti-Czech sentiment either, as the rádiovka is one of the best-selling berets ever! Neither history; berets have been manufactured by FEZCO-TONAK for over 100 years, at one of the world's oldest hat factories...

Another example are the Franco-German berets, or Baskenmütze. These "raw" berets are made by France's oldest manufacturer Laulhère, then sent to Germany where the old hatter's firm ESCO sews in a most comfortable lining and headband. Price-wise far under any French equivalent, excellent quality and comfort, innovative design, but people hardly buy these...

The Hispano Basque label was the first vintage label that was reinstated for South Pacific Berets, applied to a large range of berets in a good, basic quality at a very affordable price.

Popular when first re-introduced, but after reducing the price (buying in a large number), sales dropped completely. A case of "too cheap to be true..."?

It puzzles me... Any visitors who can give some feedback, I'd love to hear.
Meanwhile, to encourage people to try these berets out and share my enthusiasm for these models, from now till the end of Sunday 9 December, buy two berets of the above mentioned models and get one extra at no cost! (Order directly from the website and let me know by email which additional beret of these models you'd like to receive for free).

 

[alanfgag]

I think I know exactly what you mean, but apart from shining some light on the why's & how's, I fear there is not a lot you can do about it.
First, it is interesting that your Jaxon beret doesn't give you the trouble your Elósegui does, as most Jaxon's were actually made by Boinas Elósegui. However, Laulhère too had made Jaxon berets (for a short period) and your model may be made by Laulhère - a softer, lower density beret compared to the Elósegui model.
View attachment 147157 View attachment 147155 View attachment 147156
Anyway, your Elósegui beret (assuming it is a Super Lujo) is made in the densest, tightest knit of any beret to be found. This makes these berets such excellent insulators (easy to wear in both winter and summer) and very long lasting.
The downside is that these berets are harder to break in and remain pretty stiff; it takes time to shape the beret and shape it in a desired fashion. Best advise I can give is to persevere; keep wearing it, always in the same way (keep the label as guide to what's front and rear), pull it slightly to the front and consistently 'tweak' it in the same places (typically at the front) to give it it's indents. Overtime, it will grow on you and you'll learn to love it.
Of course, a much easier (and faster) way, (despite coming from the other side of the world), is to order yourself a beret of similar quality but in a lighter density knit. Auloronesas are the best examples of such.

Your post inspired me to take a close look (20X magnified) at the two contenders, which didn't show any remarkable difference in density of felting... but it was fun to do!

 

[Cepice]

Sorry for what is certainly a repetitious question; I am on page 93 of 130. What is a pounce?

 

[Daan]

Sorry for what is certainly a repetitious question; I am on page 93 of 130. What is a pounce?

Repetitious maybe, but a very good question! Without doubt, sizing is the most confusing hurdle to overcome when choosing a beret! I quote here from my book Basque Berets:

The diameter, or plateau, of a beret s measured in many different ways. These days we refer to an inch as 25.2 millimeters, but in pre-revolutionary France (before 1789), measurements were taken according to the mesures du Roi ("the King's measurers").
An inch, or pouce, measured 27 millimeters, but the pouces used in beret manufacturing measure 28mm. The reason for this is that the forms to measure berets in the 18th century were in pouces of the interior of the beret, while the exterior (rim) was obviously larger. Ad extra half pouce was added, "for the King". This systems survives till today.

The Spanish "inches" or pulgadas, are different again. One pulgada equals 23.3 millimeters.
So, a French beret in 10p, equals a Spanish 12 pulgadas beret, equals 280
millimeters in the metric system.
To avoid confusion, at South Pacific Berets, all berets are listed by their outside diameter in millimeters (and sometimes the additional measurement in pouces is listed as well).

 

[Humanfactor]

I recently "recruited" two new berét wearers.

 

[Nico]

I recently "recruited" two new berét wearers.

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We need more enablers on this forum.