BARBISIO Brothers

[steur]

Manfred, thanks. I actually only found out it was a woolfelt hat when I looked up the word Ratiné. Even the shorter than usual brim (for me anyway) doesn't bother me at all on this one. Very nice hat.

 

[Chepstow]

Indeed! [emoji16]


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[mayserwegener]

Posted this one in the Italian brands thread, but it's a Barbisio, so it deserves a place here too. Barbisio Ratiné in a natural colour. Overwelt triple stitched edge at 5,3 cm and crown at 10cm and contrasting ribbon. Qualita extra extra. Ratiné is a term used for woollen fabric with a rough nap, which is what this hat basically is: a woollen hat with a rough nap. Very soft felt though with a nice shape. When woolfelt hats are this nice, who can argue? A bit of an odd thing is that there seems to be an extra layer of cloth (almost feels like a folded grosgrain ribbon) between the felt and the sweatband (see last photo).

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Super! I haven't seen a protector like that. I have many with plastic like protectors. I am not sure if Barbisio produced Wool hats. I know the companies in Monza did. It's a separate production process. If they didn't they could have sourced bodies.

 

[steur]

Steve, thanks. It is a strange material. Feels like it's woven but doesn't feel like a textile to the touch. I'm not sure what to make of it. The liner is stitched so it's not a modern hat.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Posted this one in the Italian brands thread, but it's a Barbisio, so it deserves a place here too. Barbisio Ratiné in a natural colour. Overwelt triple stitched edge at 5,3 cm and crown at 10cm and contrasting ribbon. Qualita extra extra. Ratiné is a term used for woollen fabric with a rough nap, which is what this hat basically is: a woollen hat with a rough nap. Very soft felt though with a nice shape. When woolfelt hats are this nice, who can argue? A bit of an odd thing is that there seems to be an extra layer of cloth (almost feels like a folded grosgrain ribbon) between the felt and the sweatband (see last photo).

I like very much the color and the felt of this Barbisio Ratiné
I have some Barbisio from the same period (historical production pre 1980) that were made in mixed felt.
Part of wool and part of fur, the finish of the felt can be different. A little rough nap or completely shaved.
The shaved usually are more stiff than the one with the rough nap.
Barbisio (Cervo did the same after the start of 80') made excellent hats, often, with felts made of melange between furs and wool.
The colors of Barbisio are really interesting, or better were.

 

[mayserwegener]

Steve, thanks. It is a strange material. Feels like it's woven but doesn't feel like a textile to the touch. I'm not sure what to make of it. The liner is stitched so it's not a modern hat.

It could be a mix / blend as Daniele mentioned. Also they can mix raw Fur hair (not pickled) or longer hairs (there are many options). Pure Wool felt is a different production process. They show a short clip of the Wool process at the beginning of the Panizza film although not at Panizza like the 1951 Fur production process at the end.

 

[steur]

Daniele and Steve, thanks. It may very well be a blend. Some of my other wool hats (I own only a few of them) sometimes feel more coarse to the touch. This one does feel very soft. That may be because of the blend or because of the craftsmanship of the makers.

 

[moehawk]

Here's the second of the two size 7 hats that I found yesterday.

The tip patch is a little loose, and tough to read the crest under the onionskin protector.

Sweat stamps and detail:

Factory tag was hard to focus on.

Dimensions are the same as the Borsalino that I found with it. Just over 5" crown, 2 3/8" brim, 1/2" ribbon, 3/8" binding. Also 81g. Felt is amazingly soft, leather in good shape other than wear to the reed edge. I'm going to guess early 60's like it's Borsalino brother.

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[Redfokker]

Here's the second of the two size 7 hats that I found yesterday.

The tip patch is a little loose, and tough to read the crest under the onionskin protector.

Sweat stamps and detail:

Factory tag was hard to focus on.

Dimensions are the same as the Borsalino that I found with it. Just over 5" crown, 2 3/8" brim, 1/2" ribbon, 3/8" binding. Also 81g. Felt is amazingly soft, leather in good shape other than wear to the reed edge. I'm going to guess early 60's like it's Borsalino brother.

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Wow! what a find, I sure love my Barbisio Homburg. They are nice hats. I'm sure Daniele can tell you all about it.

 

[steur]

Here's the second of the two size 7 hats that I found yesterday.

The tip patch is a little loose, and tough to read the crest under the onionskin protector.

Sweat stamps and detail:

Factory tag was hard to focus on.

Dimensions are the same as the Borsalino that I found with it. Just over 5" crown, 2 3/8" brim, 1/2" ribbon, 3/8" binding. Also 81g. Felt is amazingly soft, leather in good shape other than wear to the reed edge. I'm going to guess early 60's like it's Borsalino brother.

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Another great looking hat, Moe. Nice find(s)!

 

[Daniele Tanto]

I had a Barbisio Sportex, now in Germany on Manfred's head, similar in detail, but not in shape, especially in the crown.
The European model here http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/barbisio-brothers.37413/page-10#post-1906020 #197 has a lower crown and the a different sweatband.
Felt was really thin and malleable, perfect for the north countries during mid seasons
It was to small for me so I exchange it with Manfred (Chepstow) he gave me a Mayser, if I remeber well.
Congratulation for the find John

 

[Bob Roberts]

Here's the second of the two size 7 hats that I found yesterday.

The tip patch is a little loose, and tough to read the crest under the onionskin protector.

Sweat stamps and detail:

Factory tag was hard to focus on.

Dimensions are the same as the Borsalino that I found with it. Just over 5" crown, 2 3/8" brim, 1/2" ribbon, 3/8" binding. Also 81g. Felt is amazingly soft, leather in good shape other than wear to the reed edge. I'm going to guess early 60's like it's Borsalino brother.

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Ooooh's and ahhhhh's right there.

 

[moehawk]

Wow! what a find, I sure love my Barbisio Homburg. They are nice hats. I'm sure Daniele can tell you all about it.

Thanks Red! Hope someday to find one in my size. Great felt, well made, love the bow!

 

[moehawk]

Another great looking hat, Moe. Nice find(s)!

Thanks steur!

 

[moehawk]

I had a Barbisio Sportex, now in Germany on Manfred's head, similar in detail, but not in shape, especially in the crown.
The European model here http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/barbisio-brothers.37413/page-10#post-1906020 #197 has a lower crown and the a different sweatband.
Felt was really thin and malleable, perfect for the north countries during mid seasons
It was to small for me so I exchange it with Manfred (Chepstow) he gave me a Mayser, if I remeber well.
Congratulation for the find John

Thanks Daniele! It is a joy just to play with, even if it is too small. Maybe someday one that fits will find me.

 

[moehawk]

Ooooh's and ahhhhh's right there.

Thanks Bob!

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Thanks Daniele! It is a joy just to play with, even if it is too small. Maybe someday one that fits will find me

John is the same thing I've been thinking over these years as I bought Italian hats other than my size.
For some I got lucky, for others, alas, no. So I slowly swapping or selling hats size 58 cm. (7 1/4) and some 59 cm. (7 3/8) that, absolutely, struggle to stand on my head.
For some I have the regret not to see them anymore, but I have too many boxes of hats too small for my head
Hope, however, is always on

 

[steur]

John is the same thing I've been thinking over these years as I bought Italian hats other than my size.
For some I got lucky, for others, alas, no. So I slowly swapping or selling hats size 58 cm. (7 1/4) and some 59 cm. (7 3/8) that, absolutely, struggle to stand on my head.
For some I have the regret not to see them anymore, but I have too many boxes of hats too small for my head
Hope, however, is always on

I think we've all had the experience of receiving a hat in the wrong size. Trading with a fellow lounger has the advantage that you know he or she will treat a good hat well and will probably have something good to trade.

 

[RJR]

I think we've all had the experience of receiving a hat in the wrong size. Trading with a fellow lounger has the advantage that you know he or she will treat a good hat well and will probably have something good to trade.

Agreed.

 

[mayserwegener]

Here's the second of the two size 7 hats that I found yesterday.

The tip patch is a little loose, and tough to read the crest under the onionskin protector.

Sweat stamps and detail:

Factory tag was hard to focus on.

Dimensions are the same as the Borsalino that I found with it. Just over 5" crown, 2 3/8" brim, 1/2" ribbon, 3/8" binding. Also 81g. Felt is amazingly soft, leather in good shape other than wear to the reed edge. I'm going to guess early 60's like it's Borsalino brother.

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Super find!