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DRB

One Too Many
Messages
1,621
Location
Florida
download.jpg
I wish a conformateur would fix my problem with a crooked crown. I have used them twice before. It does fix a poor fitting sweatband and brim, but it still leaves me with a crooked crown. Doomed to fold my own dents. Actually though, it's a skill that reflects my own likes of how a crown should look like.
 
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Messages
12,017
Location
East of Los Angeles
I wish a conformateur would fix my problem with a crooked crown. I have used them twice before. It does fix a poor fitting sweatband and brim, but it still leaves me with a crooked crown. Doomed to fold my own dents. Actually though, it's a skill that reflects my own likes of how a crown should look like.
Yes Sir. I much prefer the look of a hand-creased crown anyway; gives the hat character. Not that there's anything wrong with a factory crease, they just don't look quite "right" to me.
 

jonbuilder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,563
Location
Grass Valley CA Foothills
I seeking advice on installing a sweatband in a stetson 7X with 3M super 77 adhesive spray, The stetson is now my shop -
yard work hat, rain hat. I removed the sweat because the leather had harden due to wear, many napa baths and rain soakings. I have a nice non- readed sweat that fits. It came from a stylepark. My thought is to use a dome expanding hat stretcher. I would do a dry run by slipping the sweat on the hat stretcher and than the hat. After I get the sweat and hat alined I would mark the hat stretcher at the bottom of the sweat band remove the hat and sweat, spray the inside of the sweat; slip it back on the hat stretcher to the mark; than slip the hat over the sweat and tighten the hat stretcher. I have used this adhesive prior mixed with felt removed from inside a 7X clear beaver hat to fill a moth hole. I followed instructions from a thread on the forum
 

AbbaDatDeHat

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,850
I seeking advice on installing a sweatband in a stetson 7X with 3M super 77 adhesive spray, The stetson is now my shop -
yard work hat, rain hat. I removed the sweat because the leather had harden due to wear, many napa baths and rain soakings. I have a nice non- readed sweat that fits. It came from a stylepark. My thought is to use a dome expanding hat stretcher. I would do a dry run by slipping the sweat on the hat stretcher and than the hat. After I get the sweat and hat alined I would mark the hat stretcher at the bottom of the sweat band remove the hat and sweat, spray the inside of the sweat; slip it back on the hat stretcher to the mark; than slip the hat over the sweat and tighten the hat stretcher. I have used this adhesive prior mixed with felt removed from inside a 7X clear beaver hat to fill a moth hole. I followed instructions from a thread on the forum
No offense but... no way i’d do a 7X Stetson this way! I have to assume it’s a vintage 7X, thus a very fine hat.
If not, let us know how it go!
B
 

jonbuilder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,563
Location
Grass Valley CA Foothills
It is 7X but not clear beaver nicer than a 60s stetson 25 I have but a lot of wear it was my daily hat for years the bow is gone from the thin ribbon. I did not think the hat is worth a rebuild with a professional and my go to guy Art is busy with new hat orders since he announced his retirement at the end of the year. I have twenty plus collect worthy hats this is my beater. Not ready to toss. Have to run but when I get back I will upload pictures
 

tsores

Familiar Face
Messages
87
Location
Chicagoland
I am having fun manipulating the brim on my fur felt Akubra. I want to get it just right so have been steaming and bending quite a few times. My question is does the brim get damaged or "worn out" after too many steamings? If so, when? What should I look for? How would one reverse any damage done?
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,103
Location
San Francisco, CA
I am having fun manipulating the brim on my fur felt Akubra. I want to get it just right so have been steaming and bending quite a few times. My question is does the brim get damaged or "worn out" after too many steamings? If so, when? What should I look for? How would one reverse any damage done?

Manipulating the felt - over time - will weaken it. This is why "pinch holes" develop (ala Johnny Depp) from grabbing the crown. With regards to the brim, continual manipulation can alter the original flange of the brim. For example, every so often we hear about someone's hat on which the brim no longer 'snaps.' This is the result of the brim losing the shape of the flange.

I don't know what this means for your hat, because you didn't list the model name. Akubras aren't generally the "flangiest" of hats (in fact, that's one of my gripes about the Fed IV) so this may be negligible.

All of that having been said, Akubra felt is notoriously tough and the risk of doing any irreparable harm is low.
 

tsores

Familiar Face
Messages
87
Location
Chicagoland
Just bought this black OR from ScottF. He says it is a loose 7 1/8, and I am pretty sure Ignacio gan get rid of that curl.
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Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk

I just saw this post in another thread and it got me wondering. When drmaxtejeda talks about getting rid of the curl I assume he means the flange at the end of the brim. How much manipulation will a brim respond to? Can a brim be curled, or uncurled, that much so that it really is a different shape than when originally manufactured? (This is not related to the above question I just posted.)
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,103
Location
San Francisco, CA
I just saw this post in another thread and it got me wondering. When drmaxtejeda talks about getting rid of the curl I assume he means the flange at the end of the brim. How much manipulation will a brim respond to? Can a brim be curled, or uncurled, that much so that it really is a different shape than when originally manufactured? (This is not related to the above question I just posted.)

Curling a brim is an easier proposition than uncurling a brim. Especially if that curl has been factory set.
 
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tsores

Familiar Face
Messages
87
Location
Chicagoland
Manipulating the felt - over time - will weaken it. This is why "pinch holes" develop (ala Johnny Depp) from grabbing the crown. With regards to the brim, continual manipulation can alter the original flange of the brim. For example, every so often we hear about someone's hat on which the brim no longer 'snaps.' This is the result of the brim losing the shape of the flange.

I don't know what this means for your hat, because you didn't list the model name. Akubras aren't generally the "flangiest" of hats (in fact, that's one of my gripes about the Fed IV) so this may be negligible.

All of that having been said, Akubra felt is notoriously tough and the risk of doing any irreparable harm is low.
Mine is an Akubra Angler but the question is generic.
 

drmaxtejeda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,363
Location
Mexico City
Curling a brim is an easier proposition and uncurling a brim. Especially if that curl has been factory set.
Not referring to your answer above, Jarred, do you think that brim was factory set? There weren't any curled ORs, were there? Besides, it looks kind of wonky, almost as bad as if I'd attempted it myself.

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jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,103
Location
San Francisco, CA
Not referring to your answer above, Jarred, do you think that brim was factory set? There weren't any curled ORs, were there? Besides, it looks kind of wonky, almost as bad as if I'd attempted it myself.

Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk

I would defer to Alan's observations on the hat.

As I noted when Scott posted the hat originally, there is a regional variation of the OR with a curled brim known as the Hemphill Open Road. Hemphill, TX is in the east, near the Louisana border. I don't think this was ever offered as a factory option on Open Road branded hats....at least I've never seen it in a catalog here on the lounge.

Mine is an Akubra Angler but the question is generic.

Right, but the answer is really model dependent. A hat with a completely flat brim can be restored by a brim press. Others can be re-flanged.

I imagine so. Won't the brim felt fail by tearing if it stressed beyond its strength?

Somebody with more firsthand working experience is probably better suited to answer that. But I'd imagine it takes more force to tear the felt than the process of uncurling a brim would require. It would seem to me the potential to create weak spots in the felt is the result of a higher amount of stiffener being used in curled brims. I would think this makes the felt "brittle," for lack of a better term.
 
Messages
19,425
Location
Funkytown, USA
Somebody with more firsthand working experience is probably better suited to answer that. But I'd imagine it takes more force to tear the felt than the process of uncurling a brim would require. It would seem to me the potential to create weak spots in the felt is the result of a higher amount of stiffener being used in curled brims. I would think this makes the felt "brittle," for lack of a better term.

I would imagine, as opposed to tearing, just wearing out the fibers to the point of breakage can happen. This is what happens when you handle the pinch too much.



Sent directly from my mind to yours.
 
Messages
19,425
Location
Funkytown, USA
I agree. "Akubra felt is notoriously tough and the risk of doing any irreparable harm is low."
I assume your Akubra has stiffener on it already. Right? Stiffener will keep your brim in virtually any shape you put it into, within reason. You did not mention the preservation of "snap". Fedora owners notice the brim loosing it's snap on brims that have no stiffener and steam used. Using stiffeners means you want to Fix the brim into one position stationary. If you want a brim to snap, don't use stiffeners. Regarding what to look for... If you see that the stitching is tearing between the crown and the brim, that means you are tearing the stitching of the sweatband. Find your hat's sweet spot and leave it alone. Everything in moderation and you will be fine. Have fun with your hat. I hope this helps.
I was always under the impression that all hats had some stiffener. Otherwise, the brim wouldn't take the flange. Am I wrong?

Sent directly from my mind to yours.
 

DRB

One Too Many
Messages
1,621
Location
Florida
Hi Fruno,

I don't know if you are right or wrong. I can't speak for the professionals. I can only speak to the hats I have made. I am self-taught. I noticed some snap in the brim once it had been stretched and also ironed, into a circular shape, without stiffener. I used a manual hat stretcher. I agree with you that adding stiffener made a stronger snap. I could even hear a pop sometimes on the more heavily stiffened and stretched hats. I agree that hat fibers can be harmed in a heavily starched brim snap, however once steam was applied, the danger was minimized. As long as member 'tsores' is using steam as he said, he should be ok. The more he works it, the more he will depend on stiffener. Have fun with your brim but everything in moderation.

Here's one I made from scratch (a beaver blank) using my own branding 'Fine Fur Hats'. You might find one or two F.L. members around that have one. Alas, I gave up making hats after a year, so my experience was educational, not professional.
June520112-1.jpg
July 4 2011 (6).jpg
June 262011BlackFedora 7one-eights liner.JPG
 
Last edited:
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
It is 7X but not clear beaver nicer than a 60s stetson 25 I have but a lot of wear it was my daily hat for years the bow is gone from the thin ribbon. I did not think the hat is worth a rebuild with a professional and my go to guy Art is busy with new hat orders since he announced his retirement at the end of the year. I have twenty plus collect worthy hats this is my beater. Not ready to toss. Have to run but when I get back I will upload pictures

I don’t get why you don’t sew on a reeded sweat? It’s a pain, but even I can do it. I like the awl method.


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Snortman45

Familiar Face
Messages
68
Location
South Carolina
This question could go in the Akubra thread as well, but have any of you Campdraft ( or other fedoras without feathers) owners bought feathers to put in the ribbon?

I did buy a Campdraft from Brent(deadlyhandsome), which is in the mail now. [emoji3]

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