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[drmaxtejeda]

But you must also keep in mind you are buying factory seconds.

What are factory seconds?
Never mind. Looked it up in Wikipedia.
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[Steinbockhase]

The Strat will have a better hand than the CD, and will likely be less stiff. The Royal Deluxe (Premier) level qualities and a above have very nice sweats, as well. Nicer than Akubras.

But for the money...


Sent directly from my mind to yours.

Question about terminology: what exactly is meant when referring to a hat's "hand"?

 

[Doctor Strange]

How it feels and drapes - soft or hard, smooth or fuzzy, etc. Around here, the term is more typically used for things like jacket leather than hat felt.

 

[BobHufford]

Question about terminology: what exactly is meant when referring to a hat's "hand"?

After the crown height reaches a certain height you have to start measuring them like horses...

 

[RJR]

After the crown height reaches a certain height you have to start measuring them like horses...

 

[Hat Masterson]

An outlet store purchase is probably not something you can do online, right? Have to go to the actual store to pick up?

 

[RJR]

An outlet store purchase is probably not something you can do online, right? Have to go to the actual store to pick up?

There is a thread regarding to two Hatco outlets;lots of information.I believe you can call and ask for sales help.

 

[Frunobulax]

After the crown height reaches a certain height you have to start measuring them like horses...

ROFLMAO.


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[Frunobulax]

How it feels and drapes - soft or hard, smooth or fuzzy, etc. Around here, the term is more typically used for things like jacket leather than hat felt.

And yet, I've only heard it applied to hats and fabrics, but then I don't venture into the leather jacket threads.


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[AbbaDatDeHat]

And yet, I've only heard it applied to hats and fabrics, but then I don't venture into the leather jacket threads.


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But..but...Google says...

 

[deadlyhandsome]

After the crown height reaches a certain height you have to start measuring them like horses...

Now that’s funny!


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[Zombie_61]

Is anyone else that uses Tapatalk having issues viewing pictures? I am especially having trouble getting pictures to load in the WHAYWT thread, but it is occurring in others as well.

I don't use Tapatalk, but on my laptop threads that are "photo heavy" take a lot longer to load. Also, sometimes a specific image won't load in the morning or afternoon no matter how many times I refresh the page, but will load later in the day with no problem. Or vice versa.

 

[drmaxtejeda]

I want to buy two hat blocks, one for my 7 1/4 hats and one for my 7 3/8s. Just round at the top, so I can crease them myself after using steam to get rid of bumps or wrinkles on the crown of some of my hats. I guess I would have to do this only on the hats that don't have liners or take the liners off, so that the felt wouldn't be wrinkled by the liner, correct?
Would I also have to take the sweats off?
And where can I read about hat blocks, to learn what a #1, or # 5, or whatever blocks sizes are, and what they are used for?
Or best just leave it alone, and take them to my newly discovered hatter in Mexico City?

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[Just A Hat Rack]

I don't use Tapatalk, but on my laptop threads that are "photo heavy" take a lot longer to load. Also, sometimes a specific image won't load in the morning or afternoon no matter how many times I refresh the page, but will load later in the day with no problem. Or vice versa.

I've waited, reloaded and waited some more and it never helps me either. At best there will be a space where the pic should be, only without the pic. Today if folks posted more than one pic, two or three would appear, then two or three more wouldn't, then one or two at the end of the post. It's getting very irritating because I enjoy seeing everyone's hats!

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[Frunobulax]

I want to buy two hat blocks, one for my 7 1/4 hats and one for my 7 3/8s. Just round at the top, so I can crease them myself after using steam to get rid of bumps or wrinkles on the crown of some of my hats. I guess I would have to do this only on the hats that don't have liners or take the liners off, so that the felt wouldn't be wrinkled by the liner, correct?
Would I also have to take the sweats off?
And where can I read about hat blocks, to learn what a #1, or # 5, or whatever blocks sizes are, and what they are used for?
Or best just leave it alone, and take them to my newly discovered hatter in Mexico City?

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If you're just wanting to get something to help iron out old creases and get them back to open crown, I'd go with a smaller block, maybe a size 7 block, so you're hat fits comfortably over it without distorting. A size 7 block will be one size smaller than you're 71/4 hats. A #52 or #51 block will give you nice straight size. It would be a tough challenge to get the right block for your specific hat (Playboy, etc.), so best go with a good general one. You're not reblocking, just using the general contours to smooth things out. I use an old metal full crown hat stretcher and have good results. There is also a product called Hat Shaper many Loungers have used. There's a thread on them.

Only remove sweats and/or liners if you are rebuilding the hat.


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[deadlyhandsome]

I want to buy two hat blocks, one for my 7 1/4 hats and one for my 7 3/8s. Just round at the top, so I can crease them myself after using steam to get rid of bumps or wrinkles on the crown of some of my hats. I guess I would have to do this only on the hats that don't have liners or take the liners off, so that the felt wouldn't be wrinkled by the liner, correct?
Would I also have to take the sweats off?
And where can I read about hat blocks, to learn what a #1, or # 5, or whatever blocks sizes are, and what they are used for?
Or best just leave it alone, and take them to my newly discovered hatter in Mexico City?

Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk

There are several threads on buying and using blocks. If you are going to leave the sweat in and just want to remove some wrinkles and old creases you can get a block smaller than your hat size. If you want to restore the hat to new condition you will need to remove the sweat and use a block the size of your head/hat.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/buying-hat-blocks-what-does-one-need-to-know.74078/

The plastic dome Hat Shapers block is useful, but the imprecise sizing makes them tricky. The large works well with my long oval head with the sweatband in place but that was just by luck. You will also need to be careful that your more tapered hats (Optimo) don’t change their shape if you go with the #52 block or a straight sided dome. In any case, get a block(s) as tall as your tallest hat and you can use a band block on your shorter crown hats if needed. Lastly, ask a real hatter and get expert advice and not the third-hand info that I’m passing on. I’ve been kicking around making hats as a hobby for some time and I’ve done some research, but I really don’t know. I’d bet Rick (humanshoes) would graciously point you in the right direction; send him a PM.

You can also ask the folks at the Hatters Supply House:

https://hatterssupplyhouse.com/

I think a block(s) will be a good investment for you with so many excellent hats.

 

[scottyrocks]

If you have a 7 1/4 hat, for example, it was blocked on a 7 3/8 block to allow room for the sweatband to bring it back to a 7 1/4.

Once the sweat is sewn in, the hat will no longer fit all the way down over a 7 3/8 block. If you use a 7 1/4 block, or smaller, when you use it to reblock, the hat will be smaller all around then original because the block is smaller them the original it was blocked on, unless the shape of the smaller block is wider (more straight) than the original larger sized block.

Using an even smaller block makes this even more apparent. The hat will slide over the block and the sweat will clear it, but the finished hat will be narrower than when you started. You may not notice or care, but that's what will happen.

I am working on designing a 'block' that will not alter the overall circumference of the hat with the sweatband still in it. I'm going to start building it with a plastic Hat Shaper because they are relatively inexpensive. If it works I will post it on FL for others to consider.

Just as an aside, the only hats I can pull all the way down on a same-sized block are my Feds. The sweatbands are very forgiving. After all, they did shrink down from original size to fit my head, as has been noted by me and others in the Fed IV threads.

 

[drmaxtejeda]

Thanks, guys! I am glad I asked!

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[MWoolley]

Hi new member here I've been looking on here for some info on this barrister I picked up at a by the pound goodwill. Just wondering what anyone could tell me.

 

[hatsRme]

View attachment 135046 View attachment 135047 View attachment 135048 Hi new member here I've been looking on here for some info on this barrister I picked up at a by the pound goodwill. Just wondering what anyone could tell me.

I can tell you it's a great hat!!

Congrats on the find.