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jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,103
Location
San Francisco, CA
But would that work for a regular oval? Because I certainly don't want to risk permanently misshaping what is currently my only vintage hat.

Why wouldn't it work on a regular oval? Even if it did distort the shape of the hat in any way, there is no reason that a had in reasonable condition could not be reblocked. In fact, that might be a wholly easier solution than stretching it yourself.

A sweatband replacement would solve your problem of the sweat contracting.
 
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CONELRAD

One of the Regulars
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263
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The Metroplex
Well, I was told by Peters Sr. that the two way stretchers are for long ovals (I don't know if he was right or wrong, but it seemed reasonable, and I have no reason to doubt him). I refuse to replace the sweatband because it is the original to the hat, it's in perfect condition with no damage, and the leather is healthier than the leather on my new Stetson Temple.


ADAM Sweat 1 by CONELRAD6568, on Flickr

ADAM Sweat 2 by CONELRAD6568, on Flickr

The sweatband was a heck of a lot more rippled when I got the hat.
Also, note that spot on the front brim, what could that be?
 
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jlee562

I'll Lock Up
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5,103
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San Francisco, CA
I've used a two way stretcher in my hats without any noticeable effect of my hats turning into long oval. And again, as I said, even if they did, there's nothing that's irreversible, just get the hat reblocked. As far as the sweat goes, if you don't want to replace it, there's not a whole lot you can do. The leather seems in better condition than the Stetson temple because it's probably not as nice leather on the Temple. Leather sweats can be stretched, but there's only so far you can go, especially with a vintage hat. Given that this hat has already, by your account, "shrunk back" twice when stretched by a professional hatter; well, not much more to be done if you don't want to replace it. We're talking about a 40-50 year old piece of leather. It's much more likely to contract than it is to stay expanded. That having been said, you might also try treating the leather with a product like Pecards, or simple shea butter. That could help the sweat stay stretched.

The spot on the front, judging by its position, is probably worked in oil/dirt from a hand. That seems like an appropriate spot for one's thumb when doffing a hat.
 

CONELRAD

One of the Regulars
Messages
263
Location
The Metroplex
...just get the hat reblocked. As far as the sweat goes, if you don't want to replace it, there's not a whole lot you can do.
Forgive a stupid question, as I'm still quite new to hats and I've got a lot to learn, but can the removed liner and sweatband be put back in, or must they be replaced?

The leather seems in better condition than the Stetson temple because it's probably not as nice leather on the Temple.
Yes, it definitely is, but what I mean is, after 60 years or so, the ADAM still has better leather than the brand new hat. It's really just like new. I was actually surprised that leather that old could still be so good, but it is. You'd have to see and feel it in person to really know how good it is.

Given that this hat has already, by your account, "shrunk back" twice when stretched by a professional hatter...
It didn't shrink all the back to where it was before, like I said, I think he only barely stretched it enough, the first time, and when I got home it contracted a bit, but still not to where it was when I got it. The second time, he stretched bigger to begin with, that was about a week and a half ago and it still fits. When I said it could use a little more stretch I really meant a little more, as in less than one centimeter in circumference. It fits, but it's quite literally a hair too snug for my tastes, not too tight, but just barely too snug.

...you might also try treating the leather with a product like Pecards, or simple shea butter. That could help the sweat stay stretched.
I don't know about Pecards, but I've used Weiman leather wipes, I don't know the difference between them but I'm sure there is one.

The spot on the front, judging by its position, is probably worked in oil/dirt from a hand. That seems like an appropriate spot for one's thumb when doffing a hat.
That's what I would think, but the hat was sold as new old stock, and even if it isn't, it certainly wasn't used much. Also, in the nightmare I went through to get my Stetson (first they sent the wrong size in the right box, then they sent me one in the right size, but the ribbon was falling off in one area, then FINALLY sent the right size after I went through HatCo themselves), one of the incorrect hats they sent hat a similar discoloration in the back brim, and it was a new hat.

I'm willing to try all the solutions I can that won't hurt the original condition of the hat. As I'm sure you can understand, I'm nervous to do too much to it since I'm new to hats and this is my only vintage hat.
And forgive any stupid questions I may ask, as I said, even though I've done quite a bit of research into the subject, I'm still a hat novice.
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
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5,103
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San Francisco, CA
Provided the sweat and liner are in good condition, as they appear to be in your hat, yes, they can be placed back in the hat during a full reblock. Don't feel bad about novice questions, we were all novices once, and that's what this thread is for!
 

CONELRAD

One of the Regulars
Messages
263
Location
The Metroplex
Thanks, that's good to know, in this case and for future reference, I'd been wondering about it for a while. I'd still rather avoid that just because I'd rather not have to go to that trouble. I think I'll try one of the two way ones, and if it starts to misshape the oval, I'll just try to catch it before too long and stretch it back to normal with my head. I could probably actually modify it to better fit my head shape if I need to. I know the stretcher they use in Peters Bros. is one of the metal, heated, hand crank ones, and it's two way, and of course thats what they stretched mine on. Just a bit more about the stretcher, would that be able to do the very miniscule amount of stretching I need or just retain it (I'm not sure which task we were talking about, I assume stretching, but again, I'm nervous to do much to the hat), and how would I stretch it without altering the oval significantly? Also, this is probably crazy, but the idea comes from a picture I saw on eBay, should I put the stretcher in perfectly straight front to back, or would a slight angle preserve the shape more?

But about the steaming, since my other questions have been mostly answered, that's the only one left. So to steam it, should I use a pot of water, a kettle, a clothes steamer, or take it back to Peters Bros? I've heard different opinions on that all over the place.

EDIT: If anyone knows, I'd still like to know what to about the discoloration around the crown as well.
 
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GamaH

A-List Customer
Messages
406
Does anyone have any idea how to put a "curve" into the brim of a new Ivy?

Basically the brim is (almost 180degrees) flat right now, and I want a slight curve on it.

Like say,
BorsalinoLongshoremanBlk.jpg


If it matters, it's made of linen. Not sure what the bill is made of, but the rest of the cap is linen.
 
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Landman

One Too Many
Messages
1,751
Location
San Antonio, TX
Conelrad,

If it only needs to be stretched a hair, buy a hat stretcher, use a tea pot and lightly steam the top side of the brim around where the hat band is located, stretch it slightly and put it on your head. Wear it as long as you can. It will slowly contract to your head size and lose any long oval that the stretch put in it. When you are not wearing it you can leave it on the stretcher to prevent it from shrinking back. I think the more you wear it the better it will conform to your head. I don't know what to tell you about the stains except that they look to me like it was worn before. The stain on the underside of the front brim is exactly where I put my thumb when I remove my hat. If I use both hands to remove it my other thumb goes in the corresponding place in the back of the brim. If you are going to wear the hat daily I wouldn't worry about the stains, it will probably get more eventually.
 

GamaH

A-List Customer
Messages
406
Appreciate it.

I was gonna do that but I was afraid that it'd spoil the brim.. Upon retrospect, my fears were unfounded.
 

scottyrocks

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,178
Location
Isle of Langerhan, NY
Does anyone have any idea how to put a "curve" into the brim of a new Ivy?

Basically the brim is (almost 180degrees) flat right now, and I want a slight curve on it.

Like say,
BorsalinoLongshoremanBlk.jpg


If it matters, it's made of linen. Not sure what the bill is made of, but the rest of the cap is linen.

I would be careful, especially if the stiffener in the brim is cardboard. I have broken a bill on an 8-panel with a cardboard bill stiffener. My Hat People cap does not use stiffener. Their bills are made the old fashioned way - meaning no cardboard or plastic.
 

CONELRAD

One of the Regulars
Messages
263
Location
The Metroplex
Conelrad,

If it only needs to be stretched a hair, buy a hat stretcher, use a tea pot and lightly steam the top side of the brim around where the hat band is located, stretch it slightly and put it on your head. Wear it as long as you can. It will slowly contract to your head size and lose any long oval that the stretch put in it. When you are not wearing it you can leave it on the stretcher to prevent it from shrinking back. I think the more you wear it the better it will conform to your head. I don't know what to tell you about the stains except that they look to me like it was worn before. The stain on the underside of the front brim is exactly where I put my thumb when I remove my hat. If I use both hands to remove it my other thumb goes in the corresponding place in the back of the brim. If you are going to wear the hat daily I wouldn't worry about the stains, it will probably get more eventually.

Thanks, I've stretched it with my head already, and I'm mainly worried about having something to put inside the hat if I'm not going to wear it for an extended period of time, so I don't have to wear it from when I get up to when I go to sleep. Right now I have it on an old wool felt Indiana Jones hat that's several sizes too small, and just happened to be 23 inches around the outside of the crown. I put a clean handkerchief over the Indy hat to protect my ADAM's interior and brim. Of course I know that's not a very good solution, but It get's the job done in the short term. And I'm not really worried about the stains, they never bothered me, plus the brim spot is a lot lighter in person, the only thing I'm worried about is the ring around the crown, because I intend to steam and reshape the hat. I honestly wish that Peters hadn't steamed it, it held a shape fine, I guess he just figured that I wouldn't want to change it. About the crown, how much steam and what kind of technique should I use to get the crown open again?

I'll buy one of those drop in stretchers from eBay (the one you linked to) and see how that works. I think I'll try a hat sponge on it to try to get the ring out, but I feel a little nervous about using that, is there anything I should know before I use a hat sponge, any precautions?
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
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5,103
Location
San Francisco, CA
It's literally a sponge. Provided you don't brush the same spot for hours on end like sandpaper, not much will happen except what it's designed to do; remove loose nap, lint, and surface dirt.
 

CONELRAD

One of the Regulars
Messages
263
Location
The Metroplex
Okay, thanks, I've never actually seen one in person, and based on the description I read online, it sounded like hat sandpaper, so I was just a bit uneasy about it. Same with the stretcher, other than a plastic hat retainer, I've never actually seen a real hat stretcher and its real life proportions, so I didn't know if it would work for me.

Thank you all for your help, you've answered a lot of my questions.
 

GamaH

A-List Customer
Messages
406
I would be careful, especially if the stiffener in the brim is cardboard. I have broken a bill on an 8-panel with a cardboard bill stiffener. My Hat People cap does not use stiffener. Their bills are made the old fashioned way - meaning no cardboard or plastic.

I'm not sure what the brim is made of, but right now what I'm doing is just tying an elastic band around the brim, and letting the tension bend it itself.
 

JosLav

New in Town
Messages
1
Location
New York, New York
Help! My Borsalino was in the rain

My beautiful sisal Borsalino got several drops of light, misty rain a few nights ago. Now the rim is all bumpy, if you will, or a bit warped. What to do? I thought or ironing it but I'm scared to do that. Really appreciate your help.
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,103
Location
San Francisco, CA
By rim I'm assuming you mean brim? I'm not familiar with the properties of sisal straw, but a picture might help other loungers identify your problem. Since you're in NYC, you might want to give Bencraft, JJ Hatters, or Worth and Worth a call to see if they have any advice. I believe they all deal in Borsalino hats.
 

Chief000731

Practically Family
Messages
502
Location
Oklahoma
Take a hot steamy shower and keep your straw hat in the bathroom while you shower the steam should fix it right up... Don't put it in the shower just in the room while you shower dont use the vent fan and keep the bathroom door closed... Chief

P.S. It worked for me
 

GamaH

A-List Customer
Messages
406
So, after leaving my cap's brim curved overnight, it now has a nice curve to it, but it won't quite "hold." I.e. I think it will flatten out after a few hours.

Is there anything I can do to make the curve more permanent?
 

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