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[gilligan]

I believe you got quite a bargain especially in that size. @deadlyhandsome and @BobHufford might weigh in

be sure to post it in Post New Hats when you get some photos.

I sure will. I put his off for over two weeks because I didn't want to drive the 2.5 hours to get it but I decided it's worth the trip.

 

[BobHufford]

I recently sold one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/126149850359

 

[gilligan]

I recently sold one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/126149850359

Nice! Thanks for the info Bob. I noticed the one I bought is called the "Monarch". It's a nice lt. brown or tan color but very similar to the one you sold. From what you sold yours for, I would say I got a really good deal.

 

[belfastboy]

I sure will. I put his off for over two weeks because I didn't want to drive the 2.5 hours to get it but I decided it's worth the trip.

In my house we look for any excuse for a road trip......a good buy on a hat is a no brainer.

 

[gilligan]

In my house we look for any excuse for a road trip......a good buy on a hat is a no brainer.

Thank you for the great quote. Now I can justify this road trip to my wife and tell her I'm not alone in this thinking!

 

[TelemarkTumalo]

I'm interested in this Stetson/Filson collab., but none available locally and sold out on line in my size. Wondering if Stetson makes a model similar without the Filson tax?

 

[jlee562]

I'm interested in this Stetson/Filson collab., but none available locally and sold out on line in my size. Wondering if Stetson makes a model similar without the Filson tax?

View attachment 557535

Well, it doesn't have the dimensional brim of the Filson model, but that looks to me like it's more or less a Stetson Dune.

https://stetson.com/products/dune-5x-gun-club-hat-silverbelly

 

[harrytemp]

Not sure if he/you belong to this forum but I got a question to ask.

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

It’s Matt Deckard. Yes, a member of this lounge. Responsible for redesigning Stetson hats several years back etc etc.
B

 

[StoryPNW]

I got my Resistol SA absolutely drenched the other day, and it is not a long oval like my head is so the brim wants to deflect a little all the time, but after getting soaked the brim is super wonky. I don't have any flanges yet so I am attempting to fix it with what I have laying around. I am working on something with some steam, a hat box, and a hat jack currently, time will tell if it works or not. Any suggestions on how to fix the snap brim on my SA without a flange?

 

[StoryPNW]

Here's my unsophisticated solution, it actually kinda worked. I steamed the brim, then weighted the cutout from the inside of the hatbox to put even pressure on the brim. It's obviously not as good as a proper flange but the brim looks better and since I used the hat jack at the same time the LO fit is better too.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Has anyone ever removed the stitches and made an underwelt brim edge into a raw edge in order to gain a bit of brim width? I can see where an overwelt might be more problematic as some of the felt would have been covered and protected and perhaps faded differently than the exposed felt, and the newly exposed felt would be on the top of the brim and more obvious. On an underwelt, I think it’s might be less pronounced and the newly exposed felt would be on the bottom of the brim. I have a few candidates in mind.

 

[StoryPNW]

I am considering getting a block for reshaping and getting out old creases. I don't intend to fully tear down the hats to do this though. Since I am a 7 1/2 would you recommend a 7 3/8 or smaller block for this purpose? Or another tool? I also am considering a a flange or two, are the 3d printed ones ok for occasional rookie use? Thanks guys!

 

[Frunobulax]

I am considering getting a block for reshaping and getting out old creases. I don't intend to fully tear down the hats to do this though. Since I am a 7 1/2 would you recommend a 7 3/8 or smaller block for this purpose? Or another tool? I also am considering a a flange or two, are the 3d printed ones ok for occasional rookie use? Thanks guys!

No advice on flanges, but purchase any block below your size will be helpful I have one of those full-crown aluminum stretchers that comes in about a size 7 when closed (I'm 7 1/4). That way, you can get your crown over it with the sweat on and use different areas of the block to smooth out and shape a wayward crown. I move the felt around to the surface on the block I want to use at that time.

 

[jlee562]

Will vouch for my Randal Allan flange.

 

[Bird Lives]

There's a possibility I might be in Frankfurt Germany for a week in December. Is there a good hatter there?

I need a hatband restitched in one hat, and another could use a good steaming a maybe a reblock.

I know there's a Stetson Frankfurt Store, but do they have a hatter there? I called but at that time no one spoke English on the phone.

 

[Lew Decker]

Anyone recognize this logo?
I don't want to assume it's a Borsalino because I could not find any of their vintage logo's that look like this.
Circa 1967

 

[belfastboy]

There's a possibility I might be in Frankfurt Germany for a week in December. Is there a good hatter there?

I need a hatband restitched in one hat, and another could use a good steaming a maybe a reblock.

I know there's a Stetson Frankfurt Store, but do they have a hatter there? I called but at that time no one spoke English on the phone.

Have you checked the hat shop in Pike Place? She does repairs and she is much closer than Frankfurt .

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I am considering getting a block for reshaping and getting out old creases. I don't intend to fully tear down the hats to do this though. Since I am a 7 1/2 would you recommend a 7 3/8 or smaller block for this purpose? Or another tool? I also am considering a a flange or two, are the 3d printed ones ok for occasional rookie use? Thanks guys!

I’ve had good luck buying used flanges. With some patience you can usually find one at a small fraction of the cost of a new one. Used blocks are more expensive. With both, it’s not just size but profile. You probably don’t want all your hats to look the same and have the same blocking.

I only have one 3-D printed block and I vastly prefer wood; although the 3-D block is working well for now. The wood just seems more durable and less dependent on careful usage (@T Jones has my 3-D printed block so maybe he can add his thoughts).

I hav a rounded dome aluminum “block.” It’s heated, but I removed the heating element and the cord. It works great when I need an anvil inside the crown the work out old creases and wrinkles in the felt. I work small sections at a time and the hats never take on the shape of the block. The block is 21” in circumference and very tapered. I would never want a crown to have that shape, but it works great for what I use it for and it works equally well on a wide range of sizes.

Having a block that is one or two sizes smaller that the hat size is nice for not only working out old creases. The block can be used to stretch out the felt and change its shape/blocking. It’s not as good as a full strip down and re-block with the correct size block, but you can do a lot. My tapered aluminum block gets used all the time whereas my fitted crown blocks are used infrequently. I use my flanges quite a bit.

Good luck!

 

[T Jones]

I’ve had good luck buying used flanges. With some patience you can usually find one at a small fraction of the cost of a new one. Used blocks are more expensive. With both, it’s not just size but profile. You probably don’t want all your hats to look the same and have the same blocking.

I only have one 3-D printed block and I vastly prefer wood; although the 3-D block is working well for now. The wood just seems more durable and less dependent on careful usage (@T Jones has my 3-D printed block so maybe he can add his thoughts).

I hav a rounded dome aluminum “block.” It’s heated, but I removed the heating element and the cord. It works great when I need an anvil inside the crown the work out old creases and wrinkles in the felt. I work small sections at a time and the hats never take on the shape of the block. The block is 21” in circumference and very tapered. I would never want a crown to have that shape, but it works great for what I use it for and it works equally well on a wide range of sizes.

Having a block that is one or two sizes smaller that the hat size is nice for not only working out old creases. The block can be used to stretch out the felt and change its shape/blocking. It’s not as good as a full strip down and re-block with the correct size block, but you can do a lot. My tapered aluminum block gets used all the time whereas my fitted crown blocks are used infrequently. I use my flanges quite a bit.

Good luck!

Well, the 3D printed block did what it was supposed to do. I blocked a heavyweight Western on it for @deadlyhandsome and it did a good job. I have a custom made 3D printed block, myself, that Randall Alan made for me. I've had it for about 5 years and it's still going strong.