Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

[Marc mndt]

Question: what would the actual ptp be?

Seller says it's 52 cm (20.5 inch).

Not the best way to take measurements with the jacket unzipped.

View attachment 333410 View attachment 333411

LOL seller was only off by 6cm (2.5")

 

[ton312]

@ton312 is this what you used on the Windward?

The Hercules looks a bit thirsty.

View attachment 335299 View attachment 335300

Yes! I also use URAD tenderly to soften and quench thirst. The creme is lanolin and wax for shine.
Tenderly, then creme, then wear the dream.

 

[Marc mndt]

Yes! I also use URAD tenderly to soften and quench thirst. The creme is lanolin and wax for shine.
Tenderly, then creme, then wear the dream.

Dang, I think I have vintage fever. I need more like these.

 

[ton312]

Dang, I think I have vintage fever. I need more like these.
View attachment 335325

DAMN!!!! That is beautiful man!! THAT GRAIN and COLOR. SOOO GOOD!!!!!!

 

[Doctor Damage]

What are these things called? (see photo below) The name I happened across is "drawstring cord lock" although I have no idea. I need to order a few of them to manage a jacket's drawstrings. Thanks.

 

[handymike]

Toggles (aka- Black Push Cord Lock Spring Clasp Plastic Stoppers Ends Toggles)

 

[TheDonEffect]

I’m in the early stages of talking around some three button car coat ideas with Damon at JL and have a few questions:

What are some good vintage models I could look at for inspiration? I know it’s a fairly old design, but I’m struggling to find early to mid century examples. I do like the Aero Rockefeller.

What sort of back is traditional on a car coat? I really like the simple front of @TheDonEffect ’s recent JL, but I think I want a very different back.

Most examples i see are fairly boxy and don’t look so good around the waist when unbuttoned. How do you think a more fitted body would look?

Great question. Now that I have mine for a while, I think I perhaps went too simple on the back. What I would do is add side panels so that I could create a tapered back silhouette, and then add a half belt to create a point for it to flair out a little like a fitted suit jacket.

I've been really liking the look of Cossacks lately and seen them become like a hybrid car coat or jacket, I think that will modernize it up especially with a more fitted fit.

That said, the extra buttons lol great, but I only ever use two, and since it was a custom jacket I got then placed right where I wanted them.

But really, if you want to modernize any look, get a more fitted fit and reduce the size of stuff.

Lastly, I don't think cxl makes a good choice for it, it just doesn't drape.

But all in all I love it, I like being able to keep it buttoned when I sit down, then when I get up I don't have to worry about it pulling up my shirt for an unflattering situation.

 

[Marc mndt]

Most examples i see are fairly boxy and don’t look so good around the waist when unbuttoned. How do you think a more fitted body would look?

This is my favorite car coat back design

 

[TheDonEffect]

The cxl definitely makes it feel boxy but I really wanted an easy wearing jacket that I could add stuff underneath. I'm thinking about going back to tailor a more slim fit because I just remembered I live in California lol.

That said man do I love looking at the cxl lol.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

After owning a few CXL jackets...I'm just not a big fan. Rather than developing a blended patina, CXL mainly ends up with a marked and scarred appearance due to the type of finish it has.

 

[Cornelius]

After owning a few CXL jackets...I'm just not a big fan. Rather than developing a blended patina, CXL mainly ends up with a marked and scarred appearance due to the type of finish it has.

Of the various jackets you've owned, which type of leather do you think would be best for a "car coat" project like this?

 

[Pandemic]

Great question. Now that I have mine for a while, I think I perhaps went too simple on the back. What I would do is add side panels so that I could create a tapered back silhouette, and then add a half belt to create a point for it to flair out a little like a fitted suit jacket.

I've been really liking the look of Cossacks lately and seen them become like a hybrid car coat or jacket, I think that will modernize it up especially with a more fitted fit.

That said, the extra buttons lol great, but I only ever use two, and since it was a custom jacket I got then placed right where I wanted them.

But really, if you want to modernize any look, get a more fitted fit and reduce the size of stuff.

Lastly, I don't think cxl makes a good choice for it, it just doesn't drape.

But all in all I love it, I like being able to keep it buttoned when I sit down, then when I get up I don't have to worry about it pulling up my shirt for an unflattering situation.

This is great, thank you! Right now I’m thinking I would like the front similar to yours with slightly bigger collar. The back would have the half belt and button adjusters of the Rockafeller with a single point yoke and center gusset.

At this stage, I’m thinking maybe goat or some other medium weight black hide that is fairly mat and will drape well.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Of the various jackets you've owned, which type of leather do you think would be best for a "car coat" project like this?

Practically anything other than CXL which is loaded with fats and waxes giving it such a stiff hand and easily marred finish.

 

[photo2u]

I had good results with renapur leather balsam. However, I have created my own. Main ingredient is beef lard and other items mixed together. It works the best. This concoction was given to me by an old timer leather expert from Leon Guanajuato. also, I have seen member :TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead leather treatment that is outstanding. He told me he got the idea from Cal Leathers.

 

[Peacoat]

I had good results with renapur leather balsam. However, I have created my own. Main ingredient is beef lard and other items mixed together. It works the best. This concoction was given to me by an old timer leather expert from Leon Guanajuato. also, I have seen member :TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead leather treatment that is outstanding. He told me he got the idea from Cal Leathers.

Does the beef lard eventually go rancid?

 

[photo2u]

Does the beef lard eventually go rancid?

I truly do not know. I have been using this method for about 20 years. I have not seen any damage on my jackets. But only time will tell. This old timer who told me about beef lard is a leather expert who has been in the industry for about 70 years. He started working at the young age of 12. He still working at a young age of 85. This old timers have seen how the leather industry has evolved in treatment methods.

 

[Monitor]

The whole point of tanning is to remove everything susceptible to organic decomposition from leather so stuffing it back with active organic substance such as lard, doesn't make any sense to me.
I'd say that using pure silicone-based conditioners seems less (maybe even least) harmful to it but I have heard of people applying lard to their leathers with no ill effect so I don't really know. . .

All I know is that I personally wouldn't do it. It's kinda gross, too.

 

[Carlos840]

The whole point of tanning is to remove everything susceptible to organic decomposition from leather so stuffing it back with active organic substance such as lard, doesn't make any sense to me.
I'd say that using pure silicone-based conditioners seems less (maybe even least) harmful to it but I have heard of people applying lard to their leathers with no ill effect so I don't really know. . .

All I know is that I personally wouldn't do it. It's kinda gross, too.

I have a couch made from veg tanned leather made by this tannery:

https://www.instagram.com/tannerie_radermecker/?hl=fr

The only finish they put on it other than aniline dye is beef tallow. For the first few weeks the couch would sometimes seep a little when there where big changes in temperature, if it gets cold the leather contracts and a bit of white bloom appears here and there, you can just polish it with a soft cloth and it gets reabsorbed into the leather.
All they recommend is to apply a little bit of beef tallow if it ever feels dry, that's it.
If the colour fades you can always add more aniline dye.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

Most conditioners have "natural" oils. So oil or lard, dont think it makes a difference. It's fat. Maybe if there's a smell I'd be worried.

Himmel Bros guy talks about using beef (cant remember if it was tallow, lard, etc.) as a conditioner in that interview he did few months back. I think was reference to conditioning vintage jackets.

I used to use coconut oil and beeswax and was totally happy. But then someone noted coconut oil might not be as vibrant when cold (dries to a white solid in the jar, so).

Been using pecards. Works well. But I'm into Skidmores now after a recommendation. I like Smith's too for my brown jackets.

I've seen/heard mentions from oldtimers using motor oil or whatever grease was around.

I think in general, there's a tendency to under estimate the resilience and strength of leather jackets, especially suede. We've all heard the guidelines of dont get wet, etc. At the same time there's probably an over eagerness to condition when not necessary. Obviously for bikers it's different, but for most normal "fashion" use, I suspect you can go decades before worrying about it.

Btw, I'm not a scientist, so proceed with caution. But I bet in most cases you're not doing any harm in the short or medium term. Maybe after 50 plus years or whatever there could be pros and cons to certain treatments. And you probably are affecting the color, evolution, etc. But I doubt anything as far as integrity.

Edit: just read Carlos's post. Yeah it was tallow that Himmel suggested.

 

[TheDonEffect]

Practically anything other than CXL which is loaded with fats and waxes giving it such a stiff hand and easily marred finish.

Agreed. Car coats are bigger and looser by nature, and with such a stiff leather it just makes you feel like the tin man walking around. Better to find something with much more drape.