ANJ3 vs M422a - Choosing Only One Military Jacket

[jpk_NJ]

Need help determining which might be the better buy from Aero. Their ANJ3 or M422. Are the pattern sizing identical, and its only the mouton collar / epaulets that differentiates them? I've read both are trim fitting, so my 19" shoulder probably puts me into a 44. But then I hear the chest can still be pretty tight.

I'm not looking for the most historically accurate repro etc, just the most wearable (non costume look) with with everyday jeans/tshirts.

 

[nick123]

I’ve never owned an ANJ; colarless or otherwise. I think it looks really sharp though. I’d say it’d be dependent on your climate. Basically the same jackwt minus the differences you’ve mentioned. If you’re a morning person or it is chilly in your area the mouton collar of the 22a does keep the neck marginally warmer, but not to the point of making it unbearable in warmer weather.
Conversely, if you’re in a warmer climate, probably the ANJ-3. It looks a little sharper to my eye and you can always find an original or another repro moutoned 22a or G-1 later down the line. ANJ-3s are rarer.

 

[MeachamLake]

In an ideal world, an A2, an M422a and some kind of sheepskin would be the perfect trio.

However, if you're only allowed to choose one jacket, then the ANJ3 gets my vote for its versatility. You could wear it with a t shirt and canvas trainers in spring, and a sweater and a scarf during the cooler months - it will look good year round. Its rarity also makes it a super cool jacket that only aficionados will be able to spot. Even more brownie points if you go for the version with the A2 style windflap on the outside (Aero still offer this and it looks awesome!).

I think that the mouton collar of the M422a limits you somewhat in when you can wear it - I'd feel a bit silly wearing a mouton collar outside of winter, but that's just me. It might even be worth asking Aero if they could custom make you a detachable mouton collar for the ANJ3 - I don't know if they still would, but it's always worth asking.

Be careful with the sizing on these jackets as they can be very slim. Make sure you send your measurements and chat through everything with Denny/Holly from Aero first

 

[Fonzie]

It might even be worth asking Aero if they could custom make you a detachable mouton collar for the ANJ3 - I don't know if they still would, but it's always worth asking.

This seems like a very sensible idea, best of both worlds.

 

[Edward]

Some years ago I briefly owned an Aero ANJ3 and found it much neater fitting than an Aero AN6552 I also owned (by about a whole size difference), but the best option is to speak to Aero, they'll keep you right. Personally, I prefer the mouton collared USN version, but really it is a personal aesthetic choice. What I always found made my Aero AN6552 feel warmer than my Aero goat A2 (same hide) was less the mouton collar and more the man-made lining - the ANJ3 and the USN jackets are rayon lined, rather than the breathable cotton in the A2.

 

[jpk_NJ]

All good info. My climate is a bit mixed being in Northeast USA, so I could probably go either way with the fur M422 or furless ANJ. Lining wise, Id probably swap the rayon (sweaty to me) for mustard cotton. The only thing about the ANJ3 that I don't like, based on some photos, is that it looks rather plain from a distance. All that seal brown goat doesn't show any color variation like CXL for example. And then the brown knits. Just my opinion. Im kind of thinking an M422 with Rust A2 Knits and Rust Mouton might look a bit more stylish. Or maybe thats too over the top ???

 

[Fanch]

I suspect Aero's ANJ-3 and M422-A fit similarly and appear to be sized SMALL. Obviously if you like a mouton collar, go with the M422-A (or AN6552) but would advise against a detachable mouton collar, not that Aero would even agree to do so. My personal choice would be an ANJ-3, the best of all worlds that should have been the standard when introduced through the present time. Your biggest hurdle though will be fit. If you live in the USA would go with a fit jacket through Carrie at Insurrection in Seattle to eliminate possible misfit.

 

[Technonut]

Perhaps you've seen this pic I recently posted of my Aero AN-J-3 (AAF version, A-2 type wind flap)... Pics I've taken from a distance doesn't show the grain and character well, but in 'real life', it can be seen. VERY nice, substantial, and grainy goat. I'm not sure what Aero has in goat now, since I was fortunate enough to find one in just about unworn condition which was made some years back. Here's the pic which represents it well IMO: (more pics in following link)

What Jacket Are You Wearing Today?

Both the M-422 A, and AN-J-3 were made in goatskin, so no matter which you choose, the hides will be similar. You could go for one in a 'thinner' horsehide. I've seen Eastman's nice civvy G-1 in HH, as well as the AN-J-3 (I think that one was done by Bill Kelso).

If you want an inside pocket which isn't a special order, you'll want the USN version AN-J-3, or M-422 A. Like the A-2, the AAF version of the AN-J-3 doesn't have facings to support an inside pocket. One can be installed in the lining, but I've seen where an outline can be noticed through the front while wearing at times.

I have both a Gibson & Barnes Historic M-422 A, which was custom made into an USN AN-J-3-type jacket with epaulets (back when they still did custom work), and the Aero AN-J-3 currently.. Both excellent jackets, with a BIG nod towards the Aero. Here's the G&B:

I'm used to A-2 jackets, so the lack of an inside pocket in my Aero doesn't bother me, but may be a consideration to others. No matter which way you end up going, ALL are fine choices. I've had M-422 A's with the mouton also, and while quite nice, I prefer jackets without it..

EDIT: As mentioned by others, the USN / AN-J-3 type leather jackets are generally a trim fit as you can see in my pics (however, the gussets / bi-swing back makes for comfortable movement) The G&B was purchased by me new, custom made to my provided measurements. The Aero is tagged in my size (44), and is a perfect period fit for me with enough room to be comfortable, and not throw the gussets into action unless needed. However, I'm not sure if any size deviations were made by the original purchaser over Aero's stock patterns.

Here's some more pics:

An original AAF Type AN-J-3: (note the trimness)

Another original, actually worn during WWII service:

Random pics showing how trim some of these looked:

And, a Toys McCoy pic I found of the AAF AN-J-3 in horse:

 

[jpk_NJ]

Thanks for the. I think vintage Wartime photos always show these jackets looking good / stylish since it matches the rest of period attire. Yet in real life, we're all trying to wear these in modern day 2018 with civi clothes and I think sometimes the look isn't as spot on. Anyone have a modern day photo of an M422 with Rust Knits and Rust mouton being worn?? Probably not a common combo

 

[nick123]

Medium brown mouton though

 

[jpk_NJ]

Thanks Nick. I’m kind of digging that look (minus patch) with modern jeans/T-shirt. A bit more pop than just seal brown anj3, in my opinion. Mid brown mouton looks good but I’m still weary if Aeros Rust mouton color would put it over the top. Maybe there mouton is like cxl and varies slightly from batch to batch. Could ask for the darkest / least orange rust fur I suppose?

Does modern shearling dyed collar fur “aka repro mouton” fade at all? Probably not since modern dyes should be more stable then wwII era

 

[Technonut]

Despite some 'forum drama' in the past, Bill Kelso has great looking hides, a good jacket line-up, and does pretty damn good work at competitive prices IMO.

http://www.billkelsomfg.com/store/en.php?p=products

Their Willis & Geiger M-422 repro looks sweet IMO.

http://www.billkelsomfg.com/store/en.php?p=productview&prod=20

 

[Edward]

Yet in real life, we're all trying to wear these in modern day 2018 with civi clothes and I think sometimes the look isn't as spot on.

Not all of us! My "modern" trousers and jeans are all cut to a pre-1960 pattern. I can't abide contemporary trousers cuts, "waist"bands 4 to six niches below the natural waistline and skinny, skinny legs. Urgh. It's certainly true that classic, 'vintage' jacket cuts look better with the styles of the era from which they come, though tbh I don't think anything much at all actually looks good with the trouser cuts of the last two decades.

 

[nick123]

Now I’m fancying an Aero ANJ in russet Vicenza. I think that’d be a killer combo.

 

[Edward]

Now I’m fancying an Aero ANJ in russet Vicenza. I think that’d be a killer combo.

Yes. I think all the originals were seal, but russet would look very cool on this design. Russet with those light beige/ caramel knits.