AMAZING Vintage Photos of Suits

[Marc Chevalier]

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A Fedora Lounge exclusive – you won’t see these anywhere else (until now).


The photos below were taken from 1916 to 1921 by Clement Kieffer, Jr., a pioneer in the store window display field. Mr. Kieffer played a very active part in professionalizing a type of work that never been taken seriously in America. He was a co-founder and Executive Committee chairman of the “International Association of Display Men.”


Clement Kieffer designed the window displays for WEED, arguably the most prestigious men’s haberdasher in Buffalo, New York. Mr. Kieffer took photos of nearly every one of his displays from 1916 to 1921. He pasted these photos in a book, which is now in my hands.


Take a look at the variety of suits. On some jackets, the breast pocket has a flap. Lots of VERY early double-breasteds, including a few with notch lapels. Some belted backs, too – a nod to WWI uniform designs. Note the rounded shoulder (what today is called a “Neapolitan shoulder”) and the rolled lapels. There are even a few Palm Beach Cloth suits! And check out the so-called “odd waistcoats.”


For photos of hats and overcoats, click on these links:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?p=365559

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?p=365557

 

[Marc Chevalier]

 

[Marc Chevalier]

 

[CharlieH.]

Yes! Right when I was in need window display inspiration. Thanks for posting these!
(Ditto for the coats and hats)

 

[RondoHatton]

Very, very nice window dressing displays and a wonderful book. The WWI uniform being tailored - wow - I recently got to handle one and was surprised to find it constructed like a suit inside (but what do I know). You are quite the vintage detective. Thanks again, Mr. Chevalier.

 

[Fletch]

What was an appleknocker?

And when did double breasters become double breasted?

The sport clothing looks the most modern and comfortable - all those close-buttoning long-skirted suits just look awkward.

Buffalo knew from style back when - I have a suit or so from Kleinhans', the family who built that remarkable concert hall. They sold some fine stuff.

Thanks awful Marc. What a trip back. Now if something from, say, 10 years later would turn up...well!

BTW Marc - Mr. Kieffer seems to bear a passing resemblance to you. Are you, perhaps, family?

 

[Maj.Nick Danger]

What was an appleknocker?

"Apple Knocker" ---> http://www.m-w.com/dictionary/apple-knocker
A rustic.
In other words, a hayseed. This just in:
The N.Y. State Museum used to put out a magazine called "The Conservationist," which had some interesting tales. It sometimes mentioned apple-knockers, and in one issue the editor noted that apple-knockers was a sort of nickname for upstate New Yorkers. Last year I wrote to the State Museum to ask if that was really true. They replied that they had never heard of apple-knockers. A year later they e-mailed again and said that they had Googled apple-knockers and found a reference from Michigan (which also has apples). But the man from the Museum vigorously denied knowing of any actual apple-knocking ever having gone on in New York State. Apple-knocking is a method of harvesting apples by knocking them to the ground with long sticks.

 

[Maj.Nick Danger]

That cardboard cut out of the apple knocker looks an awful lot like Stan Laurel.

 

[Fletch]

I'd've thought it was army slang, sort of like dogface or doughboy.

 

[Dagwood]

Thank you very much for posting these fabulous pictures.

I notice that many of the shirt collars sit well above the jacket. Was this the suggested way to wear the shirt?

You can definitely see the military influence.

 

[Matt Deckard]

Back when the chest of the jacket fit on the chest and didn't hang away.

 

[BJBAmerica]

Another set of remarkable set of photos.....And all those swanky canes again....Love 'em!!

 

[PADDY]

Outstanding reference resource here.

I tend to learn 'visually,' so this is a great photographic resource for getting more of a feel of the styles and variety of clothing. Marvellous Marc, thankyou.:eusa_clap

 

[Shaul-Ike Cohen]

Great thing, caadyero!

Two quick observations:

- In the second window pic (5th pic from above), I found it interesting that the back shows a(n idealised) suit of a generation or two before, while the window naturally features contemporary suits. Exactly like you see it today, when a haberdasher or even a department store sells today's suits, but in the window's back a giant 1940s photography fools us into entering.

- In the third picture from below, the angled pockets look very British, even specifically for horseriding or hunting. They seem to be "regular" suits, though, or am I mistaken?

 

[cookie]

I'd've thought it was army slang, sort of like dogface or doughboy.

That's a doughboy getting outfitted with his new (demob) civvy suit I'd imagine....

The Norfolk style jackets are very nice.

 

[Micawber]

Very nice. I like the equestrian jackets.

 

[herringbonekid]

Mr, Chevalier is in da house !

i prefer the rounded shoulder to anything overtly square and padded.

 

[dhermann1]

Very, very nice window dressing displays and a wonderful book. The WWI uniform being tailored - wow - I recently got to handle one and was surprised to find it constructed like a suit inside (but what do I know). You are quite the vintage detective. Thanks again, Mr. Chevalier.

This is my grandfather in his WWI uniform. He was an enlisted man, but since he was in the Quartermasters Corps, he got himself a uniform made of officer's material and tailoring. He was a little guy (5'5") so he looks like quite a little pistol in this shot.

Buffalo in its heyday was one of the leading cities of the nation. Someone said that Buffalo never came out of the 1958 recession. Too bad. These are fascinating pix. I see a definite Beaux Arts and Art Nouveau influence in the general style of the display. Deco wasn't thought of yet.
BTW, the old Kleinhan's Department Store building is still sitting around waiting to be recycled, as far as I know, as is much of Buffalo's magnificent architectural heritage.

 

[cookie]

FLW

This is my grandfather in his WWI uniform. He was an enlisted man, but since he was in the Quartermasters Corps, he got himself a uniform made of officer's material and tailoring. He was a little guy (5'5") so he looks like quite a little pistol in this shot.

Buffalo in its heyday was one of the leading cities of the nation. Someone said that Buffalo never came out of the 1958 recession. Too bad. These are fascinating pix. I see a definite Beaux Arts and Art Nouveau influence in the general style of the display. Deco wasn't thought of yet.
BTW, the old Kleinhan's Department Store building is still sitting around waiting to be recycled, as far as I know, as is much of Buffalo's magnificent architectural heritage.

And of course there was the beautiful Frank Lloyd Wright building that you lost for a car park wasn't it?

 

[dhermann1]

fftopic:
You must mean the Larkin Building. My understanding is that the structure was built in a way that made modification impossible. It had a big central area, with balconies looking down, and they tries to fill them in to make more floor space, but it didn't work out well. As beautiful as it was, it was also a monument to Frank Lloyd Wright's egotism.