Aero Veste de Rallye - Opinions on fit please

[Lear]

I would appreciate opinions on the fit of this cordovan Veste de Rallye coat from Aero.

I love it to bits, yet can't help thinking that it might be too big. Or maybe I'm becoming obsessive (like the rest of you)

This is the first ever posting of myself wearing stuff. I can take it; lay in and give me a damn good critical slapping.

It's a size 48. Should my next Veste de Rallye be a size 46?

Cheers

Lear

 

[univibe88]

I think it looks perfect. Seriously. Don't fret and enjoy it!

 

[bobjones]

I know you are awaiting my opinion because of my recent Stockman acquisition...and the Winner of Best Supporting Actor...




















It Fits As It Should.

You are wearing it with sweats, which makes it a little harder to judge (as I shouldn't have done so either last year in my pics but it was so damn hot when I took the pictures) but when buttoned it closes as it should without being too loose or tight. The excess that appears at your sides, which is what threw me originally when I was analyzing mine in the mirror, is needed to be able to move when the coat is closed.

Review that photo I sent you in the PM of the black car coat, if that jacket was made of FQHH the model would not have been able to move for about 10 years, and even then once the HH softened a great deal, would have been constricted. For the others, here is the pic I sent Lear:

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll104/bobjones_aero/89637_BK0001_s_SP08.jpg

The coat style is to be big, and have room underneath. If you are of mind to go with the very current trend of more form-fitting clothing, then the big 3 car coat styles won't work for you.

As for the Veste/Cheyenne/Stockman, yours and mine fit as they should, but one needs to embrace the oversized look/fit as it won't look right if bought in a smaller size. This is what happened to JanSolo; he tried to "downsize" to a smaller size, and it didn't work well as they are not meant to be form-fitting and will look odd, as well as being uncomfortable.

You have the right size for the style, its the style itself that might be giving you the uncertainty...

 

[Splitcoil]

That's the proper fit

As others say, it looks like it's supposed to, I think. The VDR is supposed to be looser like that. And as far as the silhouette goes, don't forget that this jacket is a 60s style design, much different intent than with the 30s-50s styles Aero makes. I think if you went smaller, it wouldn't look right. It's not cut to be form fitting.

 

[Gijoe]

Looks good for a 60s Style Jacket. You have enough room for a thick sweater.
As comparison, my Aero 1930s Stockman. Ordered one Size down.
This Coats are oversized, one Size down is no problem.

 

[Ace Rimmer]

Lear,

Good to see you here from SF. Your PMs on the Aero VdR have been very helpful.

As an Aero newbie I don't have as much experience as the veterans here but here are my off the cuff thoughts on your jacket:

- Length and sleeves look great

- Chest fit looks great, especially for a size 48 like yourself

- Harder to judge is the fit around your hips and waist. Upon reviewing your first few photos, I thought the fit was good.

Then I saw the second to last photo, which seems to show that the jacket's circumference around the hips is significantly larger than the chest (???). I can tell that you don't have a beer gut so this is not a function of the wearer. I would have expected that Aero would have either tapered the jacket or provided a straight up and down fit. It seems like there is a bit too much room at the bottom of the jacket.

To be clear, if the hip circumference is too small then you will not have enough room to move about. As such, Aero is forced to build in some room in that part of the jacket. But unless I am missing something, I don't see the need to make that part larger than the chest area.

I also went back and took a harder look at your first photo. While your jacket is closed in that photo, it also shows a decent bit of room at the hip area that could be closed up a bit.

As other TFL veterans have noted, this may be a design feature of the stock pattern of the Veste de Rallye. Be that as it may, I wonder whether the stock design could be tweaked to fit a body type like yours a bit better, which is to say a slight taper to provide a better fit at the hip but not too tight as to restrict your movements. It's supposed to be a custom jacket, after all.

In sum, I don't know if a size 46 would fit you any better if Aero uses the same cut as your size 48. The same jacket in size 46 would just give you a tighter fit in your chest area but still have too much room in the hip area.

As you know I have a Veste de Rallye paid for at Aero USA. I have not submitted specs yet, as I'm still mucking around trying to figure out how to configure it. I think you and I both want the same thing, which is a leather car coat that fits our body types (chest > waist) very well. How to accomplish this task, is the big question.

For the record, I just got my Highwayman from Aero this week. My measured chest size is 42 but I sized down to a size 40 for my Highwayman, and the fit turned out very well. When I bought off the rack suits I would often have to go with a size 40 or 38 to get the right fit. Now the Highwayman is a significantly different cut than the VdR so I can't say that sizing down one or two sizes will do the trick, but I'm willing to give it a go.

 

[Ace Rimmer]

Review that photo I sent you in the PM of the black car coat, if that jacket was made of FQHH the model would not have been able to move for about 10 years, and even then once the HH softened a great deal, would have been constricted. For the others, here is the pic I sent Lear:

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll104/bobjones_aero/89637_BK0001_s_SP08.jpg

Hm, is there no hope for us who want a more form fitting leather car coat?

As noted above I currently have a VdR on order from Aero but am still figuring out the specs. I'm looking to get a better fit by (1) sizing down one size from 42 to 40; and (2) asking Aero to build in a taper so that the hip circumference is a bit narrower than the chest.

For the record, my drop is 10-12". My chest is a 42 and I wear size 30 pants. Wearing a boxy jacket looks horrible on me; the effect is like wearing a big pillowcase. lol Thus, my preference to have a tapered jacket, even in overcoats.

I think Aero have done tapered Veste de Rallyes before. This is a link I sent to Lear via PM on SF. Second pic down shows a pronounced taper in this jacket:

http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/8136530

My current plan is to take my hip measurement and build in a few inches of room to permit free movement, then ask Aero to taper the jacket to that measurement. From my Thick As Thieves MTM suit measurements, my hips are at 36.25". If Aero builds a "straight" size 40 jacket, that would leave almost 4" at the hip when the jacket is closed. I may ask them to split the difference and taper it to 38" or 39" at the hip.

If Lear is looking to get another VdR, perhaps he could ask Aero to do the same thing ... taper the jacket so that he gets a better fit at the bottom, while leaving his chest measurement as is?

Lear, I'm happy to be the guinea pig in this instance so I'll keep you (and anyone else who is interested) posted in my endeavor.

This is what happened to JanSolo; he tried to "downsize" to a smaller size, and it didn't work well as they are not meant to be form-fitting and will look odd, as well as being uncomfortable.

I've seen Jan around here but not pics of his VdR. I'll have to dig around and find them.

 

[bobjones]

As noted above I currently have a VdR on order from Aero but am still figuring out the specs. I'm looking to get a better fit by (1) sizing down one size from 42 to 40; and (2) asking Aero to build in a taper so that the hip circumference is a bit narrower than the chest.

I am sure Aero can modify their basic stock set to fit your measurements, the only issue is how will it look when worn?

I think Aero have done tapered Veste de Rallyes before. This is a link I sent to Lear via PM on SF. Second pic down shows a pronounced taper in this jacket:

http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/8136530

To my humble, untrained eye the picture of the tapered Veste at Mark's site looks a bit odd, almost like a mix of a Veste and a Cafe racer. Maybe if it were worn as opposed to sitting on a pole it might look better... [huh]

For the record, my drop is 10-12". My chest is a 42 and I wear size 30 pants. Wearing a boxy jacket looks horrible on me; the effect is like wearing a big pillowcase. lol Thus, my preference to have a tapered jacket, even in overcoats.

Wow, and I was about to ask you about your other measurements since I also have a 42" inch chest, and have a Hwyman on order - EXCEPT - my pudgy waist is the same as my chest - 42".

I also have spent alot of time analyzing whether I needed a size 44 or a 42, and have told Will to go with the 42". My big concern was that it was going to be large like the Veste, which would not work, as a shorter jacket the fit has be be closer to correct than a carcoat - which provides more flexibility if the fit is a little off.

Given your waist though, and that you went with a size 40, tells me that the 42 would make more sense.

For the record, I just got my Highwayman from Aero this week. My measured chest size is 42 but I sized down to a size 40 for my Highwayman, and the fit turned out very well. When I bought off the rack suits I would often have to go with a size 40 or 38 to get the right fit. Now the Highwayman is a significantly different cut than the VdR so I can't say that sizing down one or two sizes will do the trick, but I'm willing to give it a go.

How does it fit at first glance?

I've seen Jan around here but not pics of his VdR. I'll have to dig around and find them.

Here's the link where his cheyenne worked in a form fitted piece:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=40966

And where it didn't:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showpost.php?p=667399&postcount=1

(see from the 3rd picture down from the top)

 

[Lear]

Thanks to all for the opinions.

Bobjones - point taken about wearing sweats. It throws the whole look off. I've included in this post, three photos taken with chinos. You're also right about the excess being in the sides. I don't know if all the coats have side panels, but the VdR does. Interesting links as well, thanks.

Ace Rimmer - Your being the guinea pig sounds ideal, except that I'd have to get the order in sometime this month to guarantee its use come Sept/Oct 09. I'd be interested to hear what Aero have to say about tapering. Do let us know if it's doable, as well as the possible drawbacks. You are also right about the voluminous skirt/lower half. The jacket hangs like a bell when buttoned (if that makes sense), and because it's so stiff, the circular rim retains its shape (slight exaggeration).

Anyway, with the intention of making this a useful resource for anyone considering the beautiful VdR - here are three more pics without the sweats:

 

[JLStorm]

I think it looks just fine. It has enough extra room to be used as a 3 season jacket. I personally allow a few inches on all of my jackets that I plan to have last many years. Chances are in the next 10 to 20 years you will have a few of them where you have gained 5 or 10 pounds...that extra room will come in handy. Plus the longer boxier cuts like that look better with some extra room in my opinion.

 

[Lear]

Thanks again to all for your thoughts.

For anyone considering the VdR, here is the probable reason for its boxy look:

Do all Aero coats have the same strips of HH running down each side? On a size 48 VdR, the strip is a little under 5 inches wide.

Lear

 

[bobjones]

Hi Lear, no mine does not have that extra strip. Maybe Aero could not find 2 pieces of FQHH large enough to reach from the back to the front panels in your size?

Mine is marked as a 44, but I can measure the jacket if you want to compare the 44 vs. a 48...

 

[Lear]

Hi Lear, no mine does not have that extra strip. Maybe Aero could not find 2 pieces of FQHH large enough to reach from the back to the front panels in your size?

Mine is marked as a 44, but I can measure the jacket if you want to compare the 44 vs. a 48...

No need, but thanks for the kind offer.

So that's it then. Those two panels are what provide the extra volume. It's all becoming clearer now.

So, maybe the VdR is not for the slightly built chap; Just as the Long Half-Belt is not for the larger bloke. But maybe I'm wrong, in that with correct sizing and customization, it'll do for all.

Edit: Bobjones, someone else might find those measurements helpful. Apologies - a little selfish of me.

Lear

 

[skippymchaggis]

for what it's worth, Lear, the second batch of pics makes it look like the fit is just fine.

i wouldn't worry, as that style of jacket is supposed to be more of an overcoat than the other shorter styles.

i can't decide if my next Aero (number 2) will be brown in a car coat style, a highwayman, or a bootlegger.

 

[Lear]

for what it's worth, Lear, the second batch of pics makes it look like the fit is just fine.

i wouldn't worry, as that style of jacket is supposed to be more of an overcoat than the other shorter styles.

i can't decide if my next Aero (number 2) will be brown in a car coat style, a highwayman, or a bootlegger.

Thanks skippymchaggis. That's a fair selection of styles to choose from. I'm already formulating my next dastardly move. Now I'm simply trying to provide pics and info, not provided via the Aero website, that might be of interest to anyone considering the VdR.

Aero should provide more photographs of people wearing their amazing jackets and coats.

Lear

 

[Cooperson]

Hi Lear - Looks fine to me. Yes you probably could get away with the size down, but isn't this coat supposed to be worn over a jacket? I'm sure you will appreciate the extra room in the winter when you can wear stuff under it - enjoy!

Cheers

 

[JLStorm]

Hi Lear - Looks fine to me. Yes you probably could get away with the size down, but isn't this coat supposed to be worn over a jacket? I'm sure you will appreciate the extra room in the winter when you can wear stuff under it - enjoy!

Cheers

I think so yes. And its supposed to be a boxy cut. Im telling you...one year in the future when he has eaten to much over the holidays he will appreciate that boxy cut until spring comes

The coat looks good. Enjoy it and dont worry so much. Its one thing if you have a loose cut jacket that is supposed to be conforming, but this is not the case here...wear it well.

 

[Ace Rimmer]

Hey Lear, the guinea pig reporting in ...

I finally submitted my specs to Aero. Took me long enough; I paid for the jacket on May 11 but just sent in specs to Mark tonight.

In sum, I asked for:

• Black Veste de Rallye
• Medium weight horsehide
• Black alpaca wool lining
• Bi-swing back
• No storm cuffs
• Jetted handwarmer pockets (i.e. no flaps on exterior pockets)
• Interior gun pockets

Fit notes:

• I did not specify size but I expect they will give me a size 40 like my Highwayman. This is sizing one down from my measured chest size of 42.

• Taper: Tapered per the sample on Mark's Picture Trail website.

I measured some of my other sportsjackets and overcoats and came up with a guesstimate of 42-44" for an interior circumference of the bottom of the jacket. I gave them this measurement to hopefully address the skirt issue you describe above.

This was a tricky one because if you make it too tight, you can't really move around. I measured a few of my overcoats and gave Aero an average, but I also said in my note that I would appreciate Aero's expertise and thoughts on this issue. I'm sure they know far more about this than me!

• Length: I don't know the length of the "stock" jacket but from most pics I've seen it is either a mid-thigh length or a longer blazer type length. I'm not a tall guy like you so I need a shorter jacket to avoid looking like a pillowcase swallowed me. lol

To that end, I sent them some stats based on the length of my Highwayman. My Highwayman is around 24" from the bottom of the collar down to the bottom edge. I asked for my VdR to be around 32" long, which would put it about 2" below the end of my backside. I think that will do it, but again we'll have to see how it works out.

I'll report back when I get the jacket ... hopefully it's not another 25 week wait like my Highwayman!

How does it fit at first glance?

Sorry, forgot to respond to your query. I think my Highwayman fits very well. I've been traveling for business so no chance to post pics but I hope to do that soon.

I've still got some room in the chest, although movement when I reach forward is a bit restricted so that's why I went with the bi-swing back with my Veste de Rallye. At first I thought the right shoulder was off but on second thought it looks fine.

The waist is spot-on as well; I noticed the good folks at Aero made sure the jacket was shipped with the side buckles taken all the way in. That means if I happen to grow my girth (c.f. the "Big Mac" thread) then I can just let out the buckles and still wear my Highwayman. There is a slight taper visible in the lower back panel but most of the taper is effected by pulling in the side buckles. It gives the jacket a bit of a weird appearance from the side in that there is a deep "fold", but it's not a big deal.

Length is also perfect, for a guy who normally wears a 40 Short jacket. My size 40 Vanson Comet is a bit short in that it is only long enough to cover my belt. I think Vanson designs their jackets to be this way because you don't want a jacket that is too long when you're riding a motorcycle, as that would cause the jacket to push itself up when you sit on the bike. In contrast, my Highwayman is about 1-2" longer and I think this is perfect for a street (non-cycling) jacket. I'm between bikes anyway but I won't wear a jacket without armor on a motorcycle so the Aero will be street use only.

Here's the link where his cheyenne worked in a form fitted piece:

Thanks for the pics of Jan in that Cheyenne. Maybe he will chime in, but I think he may have been after kind of the same fit as me on his jacket. I think my effort is slightly different in that I'm specifying a length that is a bit longer than his (his jacket seems to be more of a waist-length coat, instead of blazer length). In any event, if he's happy with that jacket that is all that matters. I hope I'm happy with mine! lol

 

[Lear]

Ace Rimmer

A great detailed post there. Interesting stuff.

It'll be interesting to see how yours turns out. It was stressful enough wandering if I'd got my initial order right, without going down the road of 'extreme' customization. You've put a LOT of thought and planning into it though. I'm sure it'll be fine.

Tell me, what is a gun pocket? First time I've heard it mentioned. I can't imagine it's for genuine concealed weapons carrying. Mind you, I am typing this from the UK, where possession of pepper spray will get you sent to jail. I know somebody who experienced this.

I am surprised at no roll-over stitching throughout. What about personalized name tag (although I regularly get hell from friends for that)?

I'll submit my order tomorrow, keeping FL posted.


JLStorm

Good point regarding the excess pies However, part of this whole sartorial splurge, was to match it with a change in lifestyle/diet. Weight/size has been lost in various places, to be added elsewhere. Overall though, less of me now than there was a year ago.

 

[Ace Rimmer]

Tell me, what is a gun pocket? First time I've heard it mentioned. I can't imagine it's for genuine concealed weapons carrying. Mind you, I am typing this from the UK, where possession of pepper spray will get you sent to jail. I know somebody who experienced this.

Actually Mark Moye suggested it. I told him I wanted an interior pocket for my cell phone so he said he'd throw in a gun pocket at no extra charge.

It's an interior pocket with a vertical opening and a snap closure. Here's a pic of one (there are two on my Highwayman):

My Vanson Force jackets also have this feature, although the Vanson gun pockets are fully leather lined (and you only get one). The Highwayman pocket is cotton drill lined, and they gave me two pockets.

I agree with you that it's not ideal for carrying a concealed firearm. A gun pocket doesn't keep a handgun properly oriented, although I suspect one could make do with a rather small flat auto and a pocket holster to keep the gun oriented correctly.

I am surprised at no roll-over stitching throughout. What about personalized name tag (although I regularly get hell from friends for that)?

I'm not familiar with roll-over stitching. I think you said you got it on your jacket? I also didn't know Aero offered personalized name tags, although if I ever sell the jacket I guess it's best that I didn't get one. lol

I'll submit my order tomorrow, keeping FL posted.

Cool, keep us posted. Interested to see how it goes for both of us!