Aero Premier 1930s Highwayman measurement advice

[sarevook]

This is my first post, so for the starts I wanted to say hello to everyone!

I'm browsing this forum anonymously for a long time looking at all the beautiful jackets. Finally I decided to pull the trigger on Aero, but I'm super intimidated by the ordering process, precisely by the measurements part. I like more slim, tailored fit, not the boxy one, so I decided to go with Highwayman premier. I've already read few threads, including recent one where you provided some great advice, so I hope you should be able to help me too.


So, I've measured myself as requested by Aero instructions:
Height: 172cm – 5ft 7.75"
Relaxed Chest: 102cm – 40"
Expanded Chest: 105cm – 41.25"
Stomach: 93cm – 36.75"
Waist Over Belt: 91cm - 36"
I weight 73kg

You've mentioned in few threads that it's always best to measure the jacket that fits ok and start from there. So I have two leather jackets, both from thin ship leather that fits somewhat OK and I measured both.

1. Black jacket (wider)
Shoulders: 49cm - 19.3"
Back: 63,5cm - 25"
Pit-to-pit: 56cm - 22.04"
Bottom hem: 50cm - 19.6"
Sleeve: 65cm (68cm following arm curve) - 25.7"

Here is the link to Google Photos album, with pictures showing exactly how I put the the tape and how the jacket fits me: https://photos.app.goo.gl/X9JxRBgBd8oML15v9

2. Camel jacket
Shoulders: 47cm - 18.5"
Back length: 65cm - 25.5"
Pit to pit: 53,5cm - 21.06"
Bottom hem: 50cm - 19.6"
Sleeve: 65 (68 following arm curve) - 25.7"

I've measured it the same way as the black one, here is the album showing how it fits me: https://photos.app.goo.gl/cbY7veRdPV7TiWWD7


Ok, so having that and asking Aero about some standard sizes of Hwy Premier I've tried to figure out which size and adjustments will be best for me. This is where things get tricky. So I'll go through all the parts one by one, starting from the easiest one:

Back length: This one seems easy, as you can see on the photos both jackets are too long. I guess the good back length for this pattern is when the jacket just covers the belt, so I measured how long the jackets go under it and decreased the length by this value. and got 58.5cm (23") that should work.

Bottom hem: This is easy as well, cause I think both jackets seems to have the correct width at the bottom, so 50cm (19-19.5") should work here.

Sleeve length: As you can see on the photos, both jackets have too long sleeves, Holly from Aero advised that we should make it no longer than 61cm (24") when we are having back length 23". So I guess this should work

Pit-to-pit: This is my first problem. Wider black jacket have 56cm - 22.04" here, and camel snug one has 53,5cm - 21.06". Black is I think maybe a centimeter too wide and camel is definitely too narrow, so perfectly would be something in the middle. This is the measurement they cannot change, so I have to pick the correct standard size for it. However, standard size 40 is 21.25-21.5” and 42 is about an inch wider and there is also half inch space for "error", so I can land here with something way too small if they make it 21.0", or something too wide if it comes out almost 23". However I'm considering CXL Steer, so pretty thick leather comparing to this almost cloth like poor quality sheep leather that my jackets are made of. That's why I'm leaning towards standard 42 but I'm not really convinced.

Shoulders: This is the second problem I have. So standard 40 is 43.8cm (17.25”), which is ridiculously narrow, and I'm not a body builder. They said I can get those widened, but I'm not sure how to measure it properly. It's impossible to measure my body, because even with help, depending where I put the tape there is a few cm's difference. I'm not sure if I measured it correctly from the jackets (please check the photos). Can you tell me which jacket fits better on the shoulders or any advice how to measure this part correctly?

Also please give me any minor tips that can be useful, like for example I've seen that I can order front a bit longer which looks cool. I want to have tartan lining, but I'm thinking about something smoother in sleeves, is it hard to put on/off woolen lined sleeves? Please share any small details that you think make a difference and are not obvious for the beginner.

Sorry for such long post, but I hope someone will be able to go through it . The perfect fit I've seen here was on @MrProper in THIS thread, would be great if I can get there as close as possible.

I'm giving all dimensions in cm and inch, please answer in whatever is more familiar, I'll recalculate. Thanks in advance for any hints.

 

[Marc mndt]

Have you asked the people at Aero?

 

[sarevook]

Yes, they advised about sleeve and back length and I asked about the rest, but I didn't get any answer for nearly 3 weeks so I thought I will ask here for customer side experiences. I pinged them but got automatic reply they have some staff problems so I might not get an answer soon.

I think it should be simple to get right measurements based on the jacket I already have, but I try avoid some mistakes asking how other Aero customers did it.

 

[Psant25]

For my 40 chest the two premier highwaymans size 42 were just way too tight in cxl hh and steer. I would need a size 44. They have like a 18 shoulder. I got 4 standard highwaymans size 38 new. These last two I specified size 38 chest and taper to size 36 torso/hem. Great call. They let me spec shoulder a little wider at 19. For the thick cxl steer chest is 23-23.5. No way i could wear a size 36. Something to consider. I actually have the black one for sale if you like black cxl heavy steer. If it did not work you could flip it lose a little compared to buying new and selling (like me) losing 300 plus

Edit: dont think this will work read you post re: sleeve and back mine is 25/25

 

[MrProper]

Can you tell me which jacket fits better on the shoulders or any advice how to measure this part correctly?

I think the shoulders are too wide in both photos. The length and sleeve length are clearly too long. But you noticed that yourself.
By the way, you should take the width of the shoulders into account when calculating the length of the sleeves. If the shoulder is wider, a sleeve will look longer than the identical measurement on a narrower shoulder.
I think a size 40 is OK if you want a T-shirt fit. Otherwise, probably a 42.

The shoulders can be increased or decreased by 0.5".
Waist/bottom hem was always given to me as max. 4" by the P2P. So P2P = 23, then the hem can be max. 19".

I had the front drop enlarged by 0.5", so the jacket can be 0.5" shorter in the back.

From Thurston Bros:
Size 40
Back length--25.25 inches
Sleeve length--25.5 inches
Pit-to-pit--21.75 inches
Shoulder--18 inches
Waist/bottom hem--19.75 inches

Back length--23.75 inches
Sleeve length--24.5 inches
Pit-to-pit--21.75 inches
Shoulder--17.75 inches
Waist/bottom hem--19.5 inches

Back length--25 inches
Sleeve length--25 inches
Pit-to-pit--21.5 inches
Shoulder--17.75 inches
Waist/bottom hem--19 inches

Back length--25.5 inches
Sleeve length--25.5 inches
Pit-to-pit--21.5 inches
Shoulder--17.75 inches
Waist/bottom hem--19.5 inches

Size 42:
Back length--26.25 inches
Sleeve length--26 inches
Pit-to-pit--22.75 inches
Shoulder--18.5 inches
Waist/bottom hem--21 inches

Back length--25.5 inches
Sleeve length--25.75 inches
Pit-to-pit--22.5 inches
Shoulder--18.5 inches
Waist/bottom hem--20.5 inches

Back length--26.25 inches
Sleeve length--26.5 inches
Pit-to-pit--22.75 inches
Shoulder--18.75 inches
Waist/bottom hem--20.75 inches

 

[sarevook]

For my 40 chest the two premier highwaymans size 42 were just way too tight in cxl hh and steer. I would need a size 44. They have like a 18 shoulder. I got 4 standard highwaymans size 38 new. These last two I specified size 38 chest and taper to size 36 torso/hem. Great call. They let me spec shoulder a little wider at 19. For the thick cxl steer chest is 23-23.5. No way i could wear a size 36. Something to consider. I actually have the black one for sale if you like black cxl heavy steer. If it did not work you could flip it lose a little compared to buying new and selling (like me) losing 300 plus

Edit: dont think this will work read you post re: sleeve and back mine is 25/25

Yes, that would be definitely too long. What do you mean by your chest to be 40?

I think the shoulders are too wide in both photos. The length and sleeve length are clearly too long. But you noticed that yourself.
By the way, you should take the width of the shoulders into account when calculating the length of the sleeves. If the shoulder is wider, a sleeve will look longer than the identical measurement on a narrower shoulder.
I think a size 40 is OK if you want a T-shirt fit. Otherwise, probably a 42.

The shoulders can be increased or decreased by 0.5".
Waist/bottom hem was always given to me as max. 4" by the P2P. So P2P = 23, then the hem can be max. 19".

I had the front drop enlarged by 0.5", so the jacket can be 0.5" shorter in the back.

From Thurston Bros:
Size 40
[...]

Thanks! You are right, I need to consider sleeve length depending on shoulders. I would like a t-shirt/thin sweater fit, so I will still consider 40 based on your judgement. I've measured both jackets few times today and indeed shoulders stick outside my body, so maybe standard 40 17.25" widened maybe by 0,5 should fit OK.

What do you mean by thos Thurston Bros measurements? Those are standards for Aero? Why there are 4 different for size 40?

 

[MrProper]

Yes, that would be definitely too long. What do you mean by your chest to be 40?


Thanks! You are right, I need to consider sleeve length depending on shoulders. I would like a t-shirt/thin sweater fit, so I will still consider 40 based on your judgement. I've measured both jackets few times today and indeed shoulders stick outside my body, so maybe standard 40 17.25" widened maybe by 0,5 should fit OK.

What do you mean by thos Thurston Bros measurements? Those are standards for Aero? Why there are 4 different for size 40?

On this page (https://www.thurston-bros.com/collections/aero-stock), the measurements of the individual pieces of certain sizes are measured. You can get a good impression of which size has which approximate measurements.
The values vary because Aero reserves a tolerance of 0.5" and everything is handmade. The different types of leather probably don't make it any easier to manufacture to the mm. And then it could be that individual modifications have been made.
I like to look there to determine my desired size. All further modifications are then based on this size.

 

[Psant25]

Yes, that would be definitely too long. What do you mean by your chest to be 40?


Thanks! You are right, I need to consider sleeve length depending on shoulders. I would like a t-shirt/thin sweater fit, so I will still consider 40 based on your judgement. I've measured both jackets few times today and indeed shoulders stick outside my body, so maybe standard 40 17.25" widened maybe by 0,5 should fit OK.

What do you mean by thos Thurston Bros measurements? Those are standards for Aero? Why there are 4 different for size 40?

I have about a 40 inch chest relaxed

 

[dudewuttheheck]

The length seems to be the big issue. I know Aero will shorten sleeves, but will they shorten body length? If not, you might just need to go with a different maker.

 

[MrProper]

The length seems to be the big issue. I know Aero will shorten sleeves, but will they shorten body length? If not, you might just need to go with a different maker.

I think I have read this before, that they do it. The question is, what is the maximum they cut so that the proportions are not destroyed?
The best thing is to ask Aero directly.

 

[sarevook]

On this page (https://www.thurston-bros.com/collections/aero-stock), the measurements of the individual pieces of certain sizes are measured. You can get a good impression of which size has which approximate measurements.
The values vary because Aero reserves a tolerance of 0.5" and everything is handmade. The different types of leather probably don't make it any easier to manufacture to the mm. And then it could be that individual modifications have been made.
I like to look there to determine my desired size. All further modifications are then based on this size.

Cool, I get it, that's helpful to see how big the final jacket might be. Seeing that, the standard 40 with shortened back and sleeves should work fine for me, but having 40" chest the @Psant25 post worries me. At least I have a whole new perspective thanks to you guys. I'll write everything to Aero and see what they think.

I have about a 40 inch chest relaxed

Oh, sorry that was stupid question, I thought you have standard 40 size or something . 42 size was way too tight for you at around 22.75" pit-to-pit? This is making me even more confused :/.

The length seems to be the big issue. I know Aero will shorten sleeves, but will they shorten body length? If not, you might just need to go with a different maker.

We've already discussed back length with them and they can shorten it without any problem.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

I think I have read this before, that they do it. The question is, what is the maximum they cut so that the proportions are not destroyed?
The best thing is to ask Aero directly.

Very good to know. Then maybe it could work for the OP. Now I need to ask them how much they'd take off a Hooch Hauler for myself

 

[Psant25]

Cool, I get it, that's helpful to see how big the final jacket might be. Seeing that, the standard 40 with shortened back and sleeves should work fine for me, but having 40" chest the @Psant25 post worries me. At least I have a whole new perspective thanks to you guys. I'll write everything to Aero and see what they think.


Oh, sorry that was stupid question, I thought you have standard 40 size or something . 42 size was way too tight for you at around 22.75" pit-to-pit? This is making me even more confused :/.

We've already discussed back length with them and they can shorten it without any problem.

It was more due to the shoulder and upper back being too tight for me a vanson model b with a 22 chest fits me fine. Shoulders are like 18.5 on those for size 40 but just cut different and has some gussets.

 

[sarevook]

Ok I get it, I'll ask Aero as they finally answered today. How wide are the shoulders on this Vanson that fits you well?

 

[sarevook]

Ok, so it arrived. Please share your opinions/thoughts about the fit, brutally honest. Especially please share your feelings about the body length.

 

[MrProper]

Basically, I would say it's not bad at all. The jacket lies at the back and therefore bunched up at the lower back. That's one reason why I made mine a little shorter at the back and added a bigger front drop.
But it will probably get a little better when the jacket is broken in.
But definitely wearable to my taste.

 

[sarevook]

Cool, so you think it's not too short? When you see my first post it's clear I was used to too long jackets so maybe I have bad habits and I'm freaking out for no reason. I'm attaching 2 more photos from the side.

 

[handymike]

I would loosen the side straps a bit, but it seems like a decent fit. The general rule is that if the belt is covered- you’re good.

 

[Brandrea33]

Shoulders , chest, arms and length look perfect to my eye.

Do you have the lower side adjusters pulled in or are they loose?

The only issue I see is that the hem maybe looks a bit tight.

 

[sarevook]

I would loosen the side straps a bit, but it seems like a decent fit. The general rule is that if the belt is covered- you’re good.

Yes, you are right, straps are fastened quite a bit, I'm still figuring out the best setup when it comes to those side straps, I think I need to fasten them ~30% to take about an inch from the bottom width. I ordered 19" bottom hem but the jacket turned out to be 20" that's why I'm trying to adjust it.

Shoulders , chest, arms and length look perfect to my eye.

Do you have the lower side adjusters pulled in or are they loose?

The only issue I see is that the hem maybe looks a bit tight.

They are pulled like 70% at the photos, I need to figure out the adjustments, I can make it easily looser at hem when I loosen the straps a little.