Aero Jacket Sizing Help

[jas1598]

Hi everyone. I'm about to order a fit jacket from Thurston Bros. to start the process of custom ordering a jacket. Without trying anything on, I'm interested in the Seven, Premier Highwayman, and Sheene jackets.

I'm thinking of starting with the slimmest fit, which is the Seven jacket, and going from there. Here are my measurements:

Shoulder = 48 cm (18.9")
Chest = 99 cm (39")
Arm length = 84cm (33.1")

Based on these measurements, do you think I should start with the Seven jacket in size 42? I don't want this jacket to be uncomfortably tight and want to be able to wear a light sweater underneath and still have full range of motion. Any thoughts are much appreciated.

 

[trainspotter]

My two Aero BRs in size 42(Seven is just a collared BR) had P2P in the range lof 21.5 - 22.25", shoulders between 17.5-18.5"

I had to sell the one in normal weight(& tighter measurements) horween cxl since with the overall tight fit it was difficult to wear a heavier leather. Given my understanding now, I would go for a size 44 in heavier leather and a slightly wider 42 in a midweight one...my chest size is 41" and shoulders are 18"

I believe @Canuck Panda has gotten a board racer in a wider pattern(same size). He may be able to guide best...

 

[zebedee]

If you want to layer, a size 42 or 44 is going to be the way to go, I'd imagine. The slimmer fits need a gut measurement to be very definitely taken into account. I can take a size 38 or 40 in a Highwayman (boxier) and it's fine. A size 42 cafe racer on me is tight (to the extent that I wore it outside, got it soaked and wore it in, and it's still quite tight); a size 44 is probably a touch too loose, but far more comfortable.

 

[jas1598]

The more I read on Fedora Lounge and look at pictures, the more I'm worried the Seven is too tight and will not be comfortable for every day wear, or a jacket I'll be able to wear comfortably for 30+ years. Seems like a lot of people grow out of them or get tired of how uncomfortable they are. Do you all agree that the Premier Highwayman is the best compromise between fit and comfort? I want a jacket that isn't boxy, but not restrictive either. I'm leaning towards Badalassi leather at this point.

 

[Aloysius]

The more I read on Fedora Lounge and look at pictures, the more I'm worried the Seven is too tight and will not be comfortable for every day wear, or a jacket I'll be able to wear comfortably for 30+ years.

Pretty much. They do look cool but racing shirts are probably the least versatile leather jackets in existence.

Do you all agree that the Premier Highwayman is the best compromise between fit and comfort? I want a jacket that isn't boxy, but not restrictive either. I'm leaning towards Badalassi leather at this point.

Among the ones you listed, yes, but not the only one. You might also like the Plainsman and Speedway, among others.

 

[zebedee]

If you size up by two, the fit will be fine. The most wearable jackets tend to be on the Highwayman/LHB side. For me, cafe racer jackets need to be 'upped' by at least one size; at two sizes, a size 44 café racer jacket is as comfortable and wearable as my size 40 Highwayman and I can wear a hoodie under it. A size 42 café racer, at least for me, can only be worn with a t-shirt under it. If the hide's really thick, it isn't a first choice for wearability.

For comfortable wear, goatskin is first, followed by jerky HH and then Vicenza in my book. A Plainsman in Jerky HH or Vicenza might be ideal: long enough for colder weather, can be layered under or not and the style is simple and functional.

 

[newtojackets]

The more I read on Fedora Lounge and look at pictures, the more I'm worried the Seven is too tight and will not be comfortable for every day wear, or a jacket I'll be able to wear comfortably for 30+ years. Seems like a lot of people grow out of them or get tired of how uncomfortable they are. Do you all agree that the Premier Highwayman is the best compromise between fit and comfort? I want a jacket that isn't boxy, but not restrictive either. I'm leaning towards Badalassi leather at this point.

Exactly this happened to me. Imo the seven in CXL HH is a combination of too restrictive a design, too constrained of a pattern and too stiff a leather. I stopped wearing mine

 

[MrProper]

If you size up by two, the fit will be fine. The most wearable jackets tend to be on the Highwayman/LHB side. For me, cafe racer jackets need to be 'upped' by at least one size; at two sizes, a size 44 café racer jacket is as comfortable and wearable as my size 40 Highwayman and I can wear a hoodie under it. A size 42 café racer, at least for me, can only be worn with a t-shirt under it. If the hide's really thick, it isn't a first choice for wearability.

For comfortable wear, goatskin is first, followed by jerky HH and then Vicenza in my book. A Plainsman in Jerky HH or Vicenza might be ideal: long enough for colder weather, can be layered under or not and the style is simple and functional.

With me it's the other way round.
A 42 cafe racer is more on the large side and a 44 PHWM is perfect.

 

[IrishStu]

I'm a 38" chest in Aero's relaxed fits, i.e. an A2 but my PHWM is a 40". It's a great fit with just enough room to layer. It's now my go to jacket. I'm biased but I feel the PHWM can be worn with nearly anything, especially if you go with a black leather. Vicenza leather would be my choice.

 

[zebedee]

With me it's the other way round.
A 42 cafe racer is more on the large side and a 44 PHWM is perfect.

I think the Premier Highwayman is a slimmer fit; my normal Highwayman is a size 40 and is a little big on me, but a size 40 cafe racer is far too tight.

 

[Brandrea33]

You might be looking for something that doesn’t exist lol.

In all seriousness, a jacket that fits tight, but has room to layer with a sweater and a good range of motion is asking for a lot in one jacket.

I finally found something close, but realized after about 6 attempts, that I needed to buy one size up and go with a pattern that suits my body.

That’s me anyway.

 

[handymike]

My Seven was a size up.

My PMHWYMN was in my tagged size.

Both were CXL HH, and I wouldn't do it again.

 

[Brandrea33]

My Seven was a size up.

My PMHWYMN was in my tagged size.

Both were CXL HH, and I wouldn't do it again.

What makes you say that Mike?

 

[handymike]

The CXL was too restrictive in the arms for me, and too much for my climate. Wearing less weighty hides has made a real difference in my comfort- plus I also experienced the neck issue. They were beautiful to look at though...both from the same batch of CXL with a thin black topcoat...really pretty!

 

[Brandrea33]

The CXL was too restrictive in the arms for me, and too much for my climate. Wearing less weighty hides has made a real difference in my comfort- plus I also experienced the neck issue. They were beautiful to look at though...both from the same batch of CXL with a thin black topcoat...really pretty!

Good to know.

I sort of figured out this out as well in my very limited experience. I love the look of Shinki (especially whatever hide TFH uses). Himels is a great too. I don’t like the way they feel when wearing.

 

[handymike]

I think it is very important to get the shoulder width to be correct and comfortable with these slim cuts. The Aero pattern ratio gets thrown off if you don't. The Seven had shoulders too wide for me (1 size up). The PMHWYMN was right on for a CR, but a little slim which had the CXL digging into my pits. I prefer the collar on the PMHWYMN to the larger neck-hole of the Seven. @Mr proper got his tapered at the waist which might help in mediating some of the balooning.

 

[Canuck Panda]

If you want to use CXL, the premier/STF jackets are not the best for it. Even the thinner ones because there is no guarantee how thin as they just pick the thinnest from the batch, but that could still mean 3oz+ in some batches which is still too thick for premier / STF jackets. FQHH can range from 2.25oz all the way up to 3.75oz, depending on batch. Big difference the thickness will make.

The premier / STF jackets really work better in lighter hides, 2.75oz (1.1mm and under). Save the heavyweight stuff for the other patterns.

 

[TartuWolf]

All this talk about avoiding CXL on slim patterns is making me nervous about my incoming Hooch Hauler in 1.3mm CXFQHH.
Hope it turns out to be comfortable enough for me and I turn out to be stubborn enough for it.

 

[trainspotter]

I would suggest instead of Seven go for the 1930s HB(not premier) or the Speedway. They are comfortable and not too boxy like the HWM, but definitely not as slim as the premier patters

A size 42 1930s HB may work very well for you with some scope of layering. I have started accounting for the eventual weight gain in all my jacket purchases

 

[MrProper]

If you want to use CXL, the premier/STF jackets are not the best for it.

I do not necessarily want to agree with this.
At least the PHWM works very well for me with CXSH and the Badalassi, from which I have wished for thick hides.
But maybe I got very thin CXSH (or very thick Badalassi), because both jackets wear similarly well.
But surely it's also a matter of taste and preference.