Aero Barnstormer (shawl collar) customisation question

[kaizo]

Hi everyone I've recently taken an interest in leather jackets and I have set my sights on the Aero Barnstormer, the shawl collar one with the shearling body lining and corduroy sleeves and trim.

The main use is to layer over a thick sweater and on very rare occasions over a suit when the weather absolutely demands it.

My intended temperature to wear this in is 0-5C, 30-40F.

Has anybody tried having the shearling in the sleeves as well?

I saw somewhere here that they generally do not do shearling in sleeves as custom but because the barnstormer is very generously fitted I was wondering if they might make an exception.

Please let me know what you think.

Thank you very much for your help in advance.

 

[ton312]

I’d suggest nylon quilt or even corduroy for the sleeves. I think using mouton would be crazy hot and strange feeling.

 

[kaizo]

I’d suggest nylon quilt or even corduroy for the sleeves. I think using mouton would be crazy hot and strange feeling.

Hi thank you for the reply.

The quilt sounds like a great idea because it seems easier to slide my arm into.

Do you think it is warm enough for 0C (30F)?

As in is the wool backed quilt quite thick?

Thank you for your help again.

 

[ton312]

Hi thank you for the reply.

The quilt sounds like a great idea because it seems easier to slide my arm into.

Do you think it is warm enough for 0C (30F)?

As in is the wool backed quilt quite thick?

Thank you for your help again.

It’ll be more than warm enough. With those specs you can go with nothing more than a t shirt underneath. Ken sent me some samples of all three nylon quilts some time ago. Very nice. Equal to the wool backed originals in heft.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Second the quilt in the sleeves.

I would also go quilted body lining over shearling too. It makes the jacket more versatile. I am in Vancouver and it's mostly 3-12C from fall to spring, with a few weeks below zero. Quilt liner is really the best option for this temperature range. Wait, just realize this is a shawl collar one. Then forget the quilt lining, just go with the stock shearling. This is one nice coat.

 

[kaizo]

Thank you so much guys seems like the quilted sleeves are the way to go.

Have a nice weekend

 

[kaizo]

[Update]

So I spoke to Aero and there was a little bit of a hitch.

-they are waiting on a delivery of the brown FQHH from Horween that has a 6-9 month wait time. I do a bit of leather crafting as a hobby so I know that Horween makes fine leathers (especially their cordovan) so I'm probably going to wait for them to restock on the FQHH. It's a winter jacket and it is getting warmer anyway so I don't need it immediately.

They suggested Vincenzo and Badalassi as a potential alternative as well.

Based on what I have learnt from here I'll probably go with the wool backed quilt in the sleeve but I've asked for a sample anyway.

I'll try and post it here as reference material if anybody else is looking into it.

The other bit of hitch was the body length and sleeve length. I have shorter arms and longer torso than average so I asked if they could adjust for it but they didn't seem too keen on the idea. They did say they can do it by a bit but only if they agree to it.

Which is understandable, they want to produce products that sits well with their design philosophy and I shouldn't ask for something that they aren't comfortable with.

Right now they suggested a length that is just about long enough for the jacket under the barnstormer to not show from the bottom. It's basically a pea coat length.

To illustrate my use clearly I would likely be wearing it with:

-Barnstormer + thin cashmere sweater (for ~5C, 40F)

-Barnstormer + thick cable knit sweater (for ~0C, 30F)

-Barnstormer + tweed jacket with dress shirt (if I really need to when my trench coat wouldn't cut the mustard temperature wise and I have to wear a suit for work reasons)

So not suit + sweater, sorry I probably didn't explain it well enough.

Anyway thank you for your help again. It might take a while and not in a design as I initially hoped for but I am really looking forward to the jacket.

I'll try and post the samples here when it arrives.

 

[Aloysius]

I'm going to go ahead and be the bearer of bad news:

The Shawl Collar Barnstormer is far, far too warm for your weather conditions, even at their coldest with you wearing nothing underneath. On top of that, the tendency for Horween CXL to seize up in the cold will couple very badly with a jacket for cold conditions. Between the shearling and frozen CXL, your movement may well be compromised.

A similar jacket in wool, still with the shearling shawl collar, could work however. I've worn a similar one in exactly the weather range you describe (and lower still, with tailoring underneath). Schott makes a version that looks quite appealing:

So does Filson.

There's a lovely one from Buzz Rickson's, however it lacks the shearling collar as it reproduces a military design that did not have one.

My recommendation would be the Schott. The Filson, even if you get a good price on it, is now only made in loud plaids rather than the charcoal of earlier versions (which I enjoy but can cut into the versatility of it). The Rickson's is great if you are willing to forego the shearling.

EDIT: The Filson is now available in olive, and their olive Mackinaw cloth is fantastic. I withdraw the plaid based caution.

 

[kaizo]

Thank you for this the olive Filson one does look really nice (probably because I like the collar's natural colour).

 

[Aloysius]

Thank you for this the olive Filson one does look really nice (probably because I like the collar's natural colour).

I have that jacket myself, in plaid wool (but otherwise identical) and it’s a delight to wear. The natural shearling feels wonderful on the skin and, when fastened, it covers the neck and sides of the face nicely.

 

[Canuck Panda]

@kaizo
Not to make it more confusing for you. But here are some pics of regular Barnstormer with regular fur collars. One is actually a SB but almost same thing.

Filson Macks are cool. But Barnstormer is next level. It's leather. LEATHER!

I also would not suggest CXL for Barnstormer. It looks and feels awesome but I hardly wear my longer CXL coats. I would suggest anything stretchy and easy to wear, like batter steer, goatskin, or Badalassi. As much as I love horsehide, I just don't think it's comfortable enough for these longer coats, especially ones with button. Unless you can get assurance from Aero that the horsehide will be thinner and softer like the steers.

Also look out for the bottom hem dimensions. These patterns tend to be straight body so the bottom will look boxed out when belt is not used. The Aero pattern is good, it has some taper. The SB is not as good, I had to tailor it smaller.

Not to side track your Barnstormer plan, but Filson Macks can be worn as mid layers (like trucker jackets), just get one in smaller sizing. They are like swiss army knives, or wool backpacks disguised as jacket. They also tend to box out at the hem too. But wool are a lot easier to tailor than leather.

But for the money I think the leather Barnstormers is easily the winner. It's LEATHER! It's about time we see a few more Barnstormers around here!

 

[kaizo]

Thank you so much for this!

Which leather is the dark brown barnstormer of yours in the first pic if you don't mind me asking?

 

[Canuck Panda]

That is Dark Brown Horween Lux from SB.
Aero's version would be either the Seal Jerky HH or Seal Goatskin. I don't have the Badalassi Tobacco yet but I think it will be almost the same shade. I do have Aero's seal Vicenza. It was from the sale page. Softest Vicenza HH I got from Aero. But it could be a fluke. You have to check with them yourself, and no go unless soft Vicenza is part of the deal. Here is how seal vicenza compares (second from right). Its a different jacket but lighting is same, so color difference is real time.
There is also a Dark Seal Vicenza which I assume would be one level darker than the seal one I have. But really by that time it's getting close to blacken brown (far right).

 

[Aloysius]

Filson Macks are cool. But Barnstormer is next level. It's leather. LEATHER!

Next level in a bad way. His weather would make wearing a shearling-lined shearling collar leather coat pretty much the most uncomfortable thing imaginable. I love the Barnstormer– but I would not get one if I lived where he does.

The shearling-collared Filson jackets have a cape at the back, so actually more layers than a normal Filson Mackinaw.

 

[Canuck Panda]

If the man wants shearling Barnstormer let the man have his shearling Barnstormer!
All we can do is provide helpful info, like quilted liner, wool liner, corduroy liner. Double Mack alternatives…etc.

But I know that feeling.
The heart wants what the heart wants. Laser locked.

 

[Aloysius]

I know the feeling too. I held off for a year then gave in to the Buzz Rickson's N-3B.

 

[MrProper]

The Shawl Collar Barnstormer is far, far too warm for your weather conditions,

I live in similar climates and have three shearling jackets, all of which I wear
I would be more worried that a jacket that goes well with a sweater won't work with tweed jacket underneath and vice versa.

CXL is not good in the cold. I would say so too.

 

[Aloysius]

I live in similar climates and have three shearling jackets, all of which I wear
I would be more worried that a jacket that goes well with a sweater won't work with tweed jacket underneath and vice versa.

CXL is not good in the cold. I would say so too.

I think the Barnstormer is warmer than your shearlings; it gives the impression of something B-7 level.

But yes the CXL introduces a problem in its own right because it would be like a stiff plate of material.

 

[kaizo]

Sorry everyone quick question about this FQHH stiffening up in cold weather.

Is it something you tend to forget about while you are wearing it?

I'm the kind of person who wears a pair of double soled full brogue cordovan shoes and I don't find that too taxing once I wear it so I was wondering if it is like that.

Or is it a completely different kettle of fish?

 

[Aloysius]

Completely different kettle of fish. Imagine having panels of shell cordovan hanging off of your body.

CXL isn’t shell, of course, but it goes completely solid in the cold.