Aero 50´s vs 30´s Halfbelt?

[IndianaGeo]

Hi Everyone,
I´ve got my sights on an Aero Halfbelt and Amanda is sending me one to try on for fit (a 42). I should have it tomorrow. But after thinking about it, I realize I wasn´t too explicit as to which jacket I wanted to try on, the 50´s Halfbelt or the 30´s Halfbelt. With that said, can someone here in the Fedora Lounge tell me in some detail the differences between these two great jackets? Do both have the "American storm cuffs"? Does one taper to the front while one doesn´t? Does one have a yolk at the upper back and one doesn´t? I understand the 30´s fits a slimmer body, but does that mean the 50´s version doesn´t? I´m 5´11 around 183 pounds. Would one suit me over the other based on these dimensions?

Ultimately I would like to pull the trigger on the Halfbelt Deluxe as I like the pockets. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Regards,
IndianaGeo

 

[JanSolo]

From my understanding the main difference between the two jackets is basically the slimmer fitting pattern and narrow sleeves of the 1930s version. It's also quite high and tight in the armpit area. Both jackets should feature American styled cuffs plus knitted storm cuffs inside the sleeves. Both jackets are slim fitting and in no way oversized like the stuff you can buy from some American companies these days. The 1950s HB leans more towards the fit of the Highwayman. The 1930s HB is a very slim jacket and can to a certain extend be compared to Aero's Cafe Racer in terms of size vs. fit ratio. Judging from the rough measurements you provided I would say a 1950s HB in size 42 should be a dead fit whereas the 1930s HB might be a tad too tight if you plan to wear a sweater underneath.
Maybe the jacket that's on its way to you is already THE jacket....

Hope this helps.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I have several '30s style Aero HalfBelts. The '30s style has no knit inner wool cuffs like the regular HalfBelt. In fact....it has tab button cuffs. The sleeves are slimmer with higher set arm openings. There is more of a "V" taper to the body and the waist angles toward the front. It has a scalloped back yoke.
The '30s style Halfbelt that I am wearing in the photo is a size 42. I am 6'2"..185 lbs....Kinda on the slim side....

Aero '30s HalfBelt

*****************************************************
The regular '50s HalfBelt has inner wool cuffs with no button tabs on the outer cuffs. Larger arm opening..lower set wider sleeves. Straight cut across bottom of jacket(no forward taper). No back yoke...and slimmer body compared to the boxier pattern of the Highwayman...but not quite as slim as the '30s HB.
HD

 

[IndianaGeo]

~thanks

HD and Jansolo,
Thanks very much for your insights. The jacket was delayed by one day to me so I should get it tomorrow to try on . I do hope the 42 fits although I will prefer it in brown, so this one will go back as it's black.

Jan, you've got one heck of a collection of Aero jackets. I saw your recent post with the photos! thanks again to both of you.

Rgds,
IndianaGeo

 

[JanSolo]

Great looking jacket HoosierDaddy. The jacket that you are wearing, is that made from oilpull HH? It looks so light in colour and the surface texture reminds me of suede. I remember receiving a leather sample from Aero where the leather was of a similar colour and had a slightly brushed surface. Or is the photo just slightly overexposured?

BTW: Thanks for the kind words concerning my jackets, IndianaGeo.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Great looking jacket HoosierDaddy. The jacket that you are wearing, is that made from oilpull HH? It looks so light in colour and the surface texture reminds me of suede. I remember receiving a leather sample from Aero where the leather was of a similar colour and had a slightly brushed surface. Or is the photo just slightly overexposured?

BTW: Thanks for the kind words concerning my jackets, IndianaGeo.

Thank You...

Actually..it's kind of "a one of". A short run of antiqued steer...and the finish is slightly nappy...but more like the oil pull finish rather than true suede. Probably like your sample. The lining is made from very heavy blanket lining that Ken Calder rescued from a Woolen mill that was closing down. I picked it up several years ago from the Aero sale page. It turned out to be one of my favorite jackets.

Heres a few more pics...

HD

 

[JanSolo]

That is one fine looking jacket you have! Especially considering the now unobtainable materials that went into its construction. I guess that the heavy steerhide and the thick blanket lining make your HB quite warm.
All my previous jackets where equipped with a heavy cotton drill lining but each time I order a new one I want to go for something warmer for the body than that. Have you ever considered a Harris or Donegal Tweed lining? I really like the look of Tweed though it might not be as warm as Alpaca or the blanket stuff.
It's quite amusing to see that each batch of oil-pull horse has a different colour and surface texture. I have samples where the OP HH looks really dark and has a smooth and waxy surface with a nice pull-up effect and other samples almost look like suede or nubuck leather and are much lighter in colour. This is obviously something Aero can't do anything about but can only be controlled by Horween. But I like the fact that the current batch of brown FQ horse is of a darker brown than earlier batches.
I wonder what Ken is doing these days...probably fly fishing in the north of Scotland .

BTW: How do I insert photos into a post? So far I only managed to cut and paste the direct link to my Flickr stream. Do I have to use the "attach"-function? What is the maximum pixel width?
Many thanks in advance!!!

 

[sammy]

Since I recently ordered an Aero 30s half belt, I can tell you that Aero will customize any jacket details to whatever you like. The only thing that does not change is the stock body pattern. When I ordered my 30s half-belt, I ordered it with the following modifications:
-without the throat button closure
-one piece back without the stitching across the shoulder
-straight hem along bottom front
-no chest pockets
-zippered inside breast pocket
-bi-swing back.
-My initials on the inside bottom hem

That's the great thing about Aero- they are very flexible with details. My recommendation is to first choose the basic pattern that you like best and then pick the details you want.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

JanSolo
Yes..I know what you mean about the different appearances of Aero's oil pull. However this Antiqued steer is even more unusual. It doesn't have the waxy or(oily)...or even nubuck type finish...rather a rustic buckskin with dark antiquing with a uniform slight nap that looks more of quality..in my view. I was quite pleased.
One of my HalfBelts does have the Donegal...or Harris tweed(I forget which!)..while my Highwayman has the Alpaca. I must say that the tweed lining is the warmest of the two,IMO. I had an Aero MC jacket and Highwayman with the heavy twill lining...but sold them on simply because they weren't warm enough for me. Seems the Alcapa and tweed insulate much better in my experience.
It's my understanding that after retirement Ken became involved in restoring..or remodling houses in the area...after finishing a house for himself. I do miss him at Aero..although Will and Amanda handle things in the same tradition. I just hope Edith stays around...!
I use Photobucket...and cut&paste the img code link to the forum.
Here's a photo of my vintage brown HH halfBelt that has the tweed lining....

 

[JanSolo]

HoosierDaddy,

thanks for posting the photo of the tweed lining. Judging from the colour I would say it's Donegal. I am quite surprised that you state that tweed is actually that warm...that's very nice! Without doubt I would have thought that Alpaca and woven wool would be significantly warmer.
Thanks for your advice concerning uploading pictures. I will give Photobucket a try later this week.

BTW: Do you own a Hercules or Long Halfbelt? Photos of those being worn would be very much appreciated.

Thanks a lot,

Jan

 

[Max Flash]

How does the Route 66 compare in terms of fit? I am considering one of these, but without the slanting breast pocket.

I'd probably get the inside pocket added, with no storm cuffs, as the 66 has adjustable cuffs.

 

[JanSolo]

From the description, photos, and what I've heard about the jacket it is basically the stock pattern of the Cafe Racer with bits and pieces added, i.e. collar, pockets, adjustable cuffs etc.
I've added some pictures of me wearing the jacket. I'm 6 foot tall, weigh 155 lbs. and the jacket shown is a size 40 with 1 inch added to the sleeves.
I know, it's not the 66, it's not brown but it still might give some impression of how the jacket in question would fit. Please note the action back which really makes sense on such a tight fitting jacket.
Hope this helps,
Jan

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2171/2966043587_41d4757c0b.jpg?v=0
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3149/2966893490_ec2096eefc.jpg?v=0
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3287/2966049295_18750e7110.jpg?v=0

 

[Max Flash]

From the description, photos, and what I've heard about the jacket it is basically the stock pattern of the Cafe Racer with bits and pieces added, i.e. collar, pockets, adjustable cuffs etc.
I've added some pictures of me wearing the jacket. I'm 6 foot tall, weigh 155 lbs. and the jacket shown is a size 40 with 1 inch added to the sleeves.
I know, it's not the 66, it's not brown but it still might give some impression of how the jacket in question would fit. Please note the action back which really makes sense on such a tight fitting jacket.
Hope this helps,
Jan

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2171/2966043587_41d4757c0b.jpg?v=0
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3149/2966893490_ec2096eefc.jpg?v=0
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3287/2966049295_18750e7110.jpg?v=0

Thanks Jan

I agree - the action back is ideal, especially I would mainly wear it when driving in my sportscar, hence I don't want a long jacket.

It looks like a good close fit without being "biking jacket tight".

 

[Mark P]

Route 66

I think the Route 66 varies quite a bit from the cafe racer design - see below my Route 66 that I bought this year. Both have the bi-swing back, but each is constructed differently. The cut and sizing makes it quite roomy in the chest and shoulders, and a little snug round the waist. I normally take a 38 chest, which this jacket is, and I would say the fits is good, but slightly on the generous side. I had the windflap specially reduced in size as the original was quite wide.

 

[IndianaGeo]

Update

Hi All,
I received a black 50´s Halfbelt Deluxe yesterday, tried it on, found it fit well in a 42 and returned it as it´s not quite what I´m looking for. I found the front pockets set in a way I felt were difficult to access and made my waist look a bit bigger than I wanted. With that said, it´s still a fine jacket and would recommend it to anyone looking for that style.

So I´ve got plans to just go and visit the shop, get properly measured and enjoy the Scottish countryside and Edinburgh while I´m at it in the next few weeks. I´ll likely go with a 30´s Halfbelt with the following options:

color: Brown
Black Stewart lining
Cotton drill sleeves
No yoke on the back shoulder
Snap cuffs instead of the button cuffs
two inside pockets (one snap and one zip)
antique brass zipper
front chest zip pocket (not sure whether to go with horizontal or slanted pocket style...ideas welcome)


Now, I´m wondering about the idea of the bi-swing back? Anyone have any thoughts on this? On the 30´s Halfbelt do you think it´s a good idea? Does it look good? Does it add a bit of functionality for movement? Just trying to get a sense of people´s experience with this feature. Thanks for listening!
Regards,
IndianaGeo

 

[HoosierDaddy]

HoosierDaddy,

thanks for posting the photo of the tweed lining. Judging from the colour I would say it's Donegal. I am quite surprised that you state that tweed is actually that warm...that's very nice! Without doubt I would have thought that Alpaca and woven wool would be significantly warmer.
Thanks for your advice concerning uploading pictures. I will give Photobucket a try later this week.

BTW: Do you own a Hercules or Long Halfbelt? Photos of those being worn would be very much appreciated.

Thanks a lot,

Jan

Jan
The Donegal tweed lining in my '30s HB...seems slightly thicker than the Alpaca in my Highwayman. I think both are a type of wool. Definately the Donegal is warmer between my two jackets.
For me...the heavy twill always allowed for a chill. I'd wear the Aero MC jacket lined with it on the Harley...and never actually feel warm on a cold brisk day. Even my Aero Levi style jacket with satin lining felt warmer...and I actually prefered that over the hvy twill lining. Here's a pic....

Sorry...I don't own a Hercules or Long HalfBelt. However there are pics of a very nice long Halfbelt somewhere here on the forum.
The only thing now on my "wish list" is an Aero antique brown Bootlegger with a bi-swing back...zippered sleeves...lined with Alcapa. A member on another forum had one made a couple years ago that was just the ticket for me. I think there is a pic of it on Mark Moye's pic album. I'll look for it.
HD
Here's the Bootlegger that I have in mind...
http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/7487901

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Now, I´m wondering about the idea of the bi-swing back? Anyone have any thoughts on this? On the 30´s Halfbelt do you think it´s a good idea? Does it look good? Does it add a bit of functionality for movement? Just trying to get a sense of people´s experience with this feature. Thanks for listening!
Regards,
IndianaGeo

Hi IndianGeo
As far as appearance...I don't think the bi-swing adds much to the '30s style HB...in fact the '30 style is a bit larger in the shoulders tapering in a V (athletic type shape). However..if you happen to ride a motorcycle..a bi-swing is a must IMO. Either way,tho..I'm sure you'll enjoy it. I have two zip inner pockets (Talons)in my vintage brown '30s HB. It came that way from Aero's sale page..and I was delighted.
Whatever you decide for sure on the little details..sounds like a nice jacket will be on the way!
HD

 

[JanSolo]

HD, thanks a lot for the profound information you supply with each post. Your Levi/Aero Hybrid looks actually quite nice, especially the shape of the collar is very convincing.
I know that tweed, blanket cloth, and Alpaca are all made from wool (the latter being a nasty animal...I got bitten by one in a zoo when I was a child!!!). But I somehow thought that the "fluffy" surface of the Alpaca fleece and the blanket lining would offer better insulation than a hard spun and tightly woven tweed...but there you go, lesson learned
My next Aero Cheyenne that should be delivered on Monday or Tuesday will be made from seal goatskin, therefore it should be a tad lighter than FQ HH without any compromises in durability. I went for the double lining option: Smooth, thick satin for ease of wear ontop of the standard cotton drill. Will said it wouldn't make the jacket bulkier in any way, in fact I shoudn't notice that the jacket features a sandwich lining.
The Bootlegger is also a very nice jacket. It should work well as a MC jacket but then the overall design is versatile and good looking enough to wear the jacket on many occasions. I like it, but I cannot say which colour I would prefer on that one.

IndianaGeo, glad to hear that the 42 Halfbelt was a good fit. You are right, don't buy a jacket that you're not totally satisfied with. Visiting Aero to talk to them might be the best option to get what you really want. Good luck with your quest for the perfect HB!

Jan

 

[daizawaguy]

Custom 42 with 1" off the sleeves and length (82kgs, 177cm, 36 jeans)

 

[Adam in Canada]

HD, more details about your Aero Levi style jacket please...

Jan
The Donegal tweed lining in my '30s HB...seems slightly thicker than the Alpaca in my Highwayman. I think both are a type of wool. Definately the Donegal is warmer between my two jackets.
For me...the heavy twill always allowed for a chill. I'd wear the Aero MC jacket lined with it on the Harley...and never actually feel warm on a cold brisk day. Even my Aero Levi style jacket with satin lining felt warmer...and I actually prefered that over the hvy twill lining. Here's a pic....

Sorry...I don't own a Hercules or Long HalfBelt. However there are pics of a very nice long Halfbelt somewhere here on the forum.
The only thing now on my "wish list" is an Aero antique brown Bootlegger with a bi-swing back...zippered sleeves...lined with Alcapa. A member on another forum had one made a couple years ago that was just the ticket for me. I think there is a pic of it on Mark Moye's pic album. I'll look for it.
HD
Here's the Bootlegger that I have in mind...
http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/7487901

HD, I've been putting together a Frankenbelt for Aero to construct, much like Rufus' jacket, being: a 1930s halfbelt slimfit with bootlegger front, extra length, and button cuffs. The jacket you have pictured above, which you describe as the "Aero Levi style", looks very much like what I'm after. Can you tell me how yours differs from what I'm trying to build? I ask because you have a 1930s HB slimfit, and you're familiar with the bootlegger. To my untrained eye, the back on your Aero Levi style jacket doesn't have the double-peak yolk, and the lapels are a bit different than the bootlegger. Can you elaborate?

Thanks, HD,
Adam