Advice needed on (Caban) Peacoat made of heavy cotton twill

[Turnip]

Next time I make it to a Manufactum shop I’ll try one of these HR, really like these coats.

Cheers

Turnip

 

[Worf]

It's not that Melton is bad, but more that Kersey is so much nicer.

I concur... I've Peacoats made of both... Kersey is like silk to the touch and much more water resistant. Melton is okay but not near as nice. I've Peacoat to thank for me scoring the "real deal". Can't thank him enough actually.

Worf

 

[MoFo]

Difficult decision but I finally decided to order the Hannes Roether double breasted coat made by thick "Deutschleder" heavy cotton as it does look more modern compared to my leather jackets and will therefore be a good contrast. If I'm not happy, I'll go for the Pike Brothers Peacoat. Thanks again to all for your input!

“Elephant Skin” from Pike Brothers is "Deutschleder"

 

[Carlos840]

What's not to like about melton wool?

I bought a nice belted peacoat a few weeks ago :
https://www.kentandcurwen.com/colle...ducts/midnight-blue-wool-peacoat-k38i6er10439

Once you get somethign made from Kersey you'll know...
I have a Crombie Melton wool peacoat and a vintage Kersey 60s peacoat, you would not believe how much nicer the vintage Kersey is.
Where the Melton is open, a bit rough, not windproof or waterproof, the Kersey is woven super tightly, is smooth and silky and is windproof and water resistant.
It's really like comparing Topshop leather and Horween CXL. There is no real comparison...

 

[Marc mndt]

It's really like comparing Topshop leather and Horween CXL. There is no real comparison...

But isn't that like comparing it with cashmere or vicuña? Workhorse vs showpony. Or is Kersey considered a workhorse as well?

 

[Carlos840]

But isn't that like comparing it with cashmere or vicuña? Workhorse vs showpony. Or is Kersey considered a workhorse as well?

Kersey was the oifficial US Navy wool for most peacoats untill the 70s i think, it was definitely nothing fancy, it's super tough....
It's just a different weaving method, not really a different quality/grade. It probably takes more time to weave than melton.

To me the main difference is wind resistance.
Kersey is so tight wind doesn't cut through, wheras wind goes straight through Melton.
Because of that the modern USN Melton peacoats are lined with quilted fabric, the Kersey ones didn't need a lining.

 

[Peacoat]

@Carlos840 has an excellent understanding of the properties of Kersey and Melton. He is also correct about Kersey being the peacoat fabric during the 70s.* In 1980 the Navy changed over to Melton, and unfortunately, never looked back.

@Marc mndt to learn more about the vintage Navy peacoat, there is an article that explains all in the Guides section. See link below. It is a definite work and is written by the world's foremost expert in vintage US Navy peacoats.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...-dating-the-united-states-navy-peacoat.72058/
______
* There were a few contracts let during the mid to late 70s that called for Melton. All of the Melton shell peacoats that I have seen are clearly marked as such.

 

[Marc mndt]

@Carlos840 has an excellent understanding of the properties of Kersey and Melton. He is also correct about Kersey being the peacoat fabric during the 70s.* In 1980 the Navy changed over to Melton, and unfortunately, never looked back.

@Marc mndt to learn more about the vintage Navy peacoat, there is an article that explains all in the Guides section. See link below. It is a definite work and is written by the world's foremost expert in vintage US Navy peacoats.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...-dating-the-united-states-navy-peacoat.72058/
______
* There were a few contracts let during the mid to late 70s that called for Melton. All of the Melton shell peacoats that I have seen are clearly marked as such.

Thank you, both you and @Carlos840 for sharing your knowledge. It's nice to learn something new about fabrics. Something I didnt know even though I've worked in the clothing industry for years