A short history of Italian hatters

[Daniele Tanto]

Art becomes industry

The north of Italy which seems to enjoy nature of conditions favorable to the hatters industry birth.
First of all the availability of water, a key factor in the machining process. And then the skilled labor that is crucial to a production cycle which, at least until the nineteenth century, is mainly manual.
Towards the end of the eighteenth century a character stands out among the manufacturers of hats is Giovan Battista Gnecchi implanting in Milan the first plant "modern" of Italy. Following the example of fellow Parisian Leprevost introduced and perfected the use of silk in hats invoice. Alessandria, Intra, Biella, Monza, Montevarchi are the historical sites of the craft tradition. At the end of the nineteenth century there were also factories in Voghera and Cremona.
Meanwhile also they resisted numerous shops stubbornly attached to the handwork that some, at least at this stage of mechanization is not yet perfect, guaranteed a fancy hat to softness, durability and care in the finish.
In 1857 Giuseppe Borsalino and brother Lazzaro start producing fur hats in a workshop in Alessandria laying the foundations of art that will make their creations synonymous with Italian elegance. Borsalino became famous for its felts "feather" and the model "the diplomatic".
Numerous industries in Intra are documented in 1874.
That was a remnant of an ancient tradition of the area since at least the beginning of the eighteenth century were manufactured hats on the shores of Lake Maggiore. It had been the same Count Borromeo to fund the planting of a fine hat factory.
Hatters intresi decided to become entrepreneurs know the names: Frova, Nava, Petroleum and later at the beginning of the nineteenth century Albertini (1817), but certainly is imposed on all the figure of Giovanni Panizza whose name will become one of the most famous brands in the world .
Open in 1881 Panizza hat factory it will soon reach an undisputed prestige. His name is linked to the sporting and elegant hats at once, made with such lightweight felts Bon Voyage and mixed colored felts obtained by employing a few dozen grams of raw material.
In more recent years the lake shores have given birth to Berrettificio Verbano. Founded by a former employee of Panizza this small company is distinguished by the high quality of workmanship and quality materials.
Another popular Piedmont area for his hat factories is certainly the Biella. Laboratories often craftsmen implanted in the house existed here since the early nineteenth century, but the real transition to the industry came with the birth in 1862 of the company Milanaccio and Rolando Barbisio. The Barbisio hat owes its prodigious spread to the quality of work entrusted to the expert hands of the workers' children and grandchildren hatters ".
Specializes in producing exotic hats, its models were prized and exported to South American markets. In 1897 comes the hat factory Cervo a Sagliano Micca that links its name to the famous "Princeps" synonymous with elegance and quality. Adorno in 1885, a company formed by fifteen hatters gives life to the hat factory Grosso Valtz and C.
Tuscany, undisputed leader in the production of straw hats does not fail to make its contribution also in the hat Felt production: at Montevarchi in the first half of the nineteenth century is on the hat factory Giuseppe Rossi and later, in 1918 Nino Donati begins to produce hats for men and women after having traded braids for making straw hats.

The Tesi Company was founded in 1850 as manufacture of products for the manufacture of straw hats. By the end of the nineteenth century the company became producer of finished hats. Are famous his "Leghorn", the "Magline", the "Sailing" that the whole world knows as the "Chevalier" models, "Boater", "Sailor".

This is a short history of Italian producers of hat, if you have more to add or somenthing to ask......

 

[mayserwegener]

Informative historical overview!

Here are some links to Italian Hat Company prospectuses and catalogs. I have some others on the way.

G.B.Borsalino Fu Lazzaro & C. Prospectus / Catalog, probably early 1900s (in Italian, French, English, German, Spanish)

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/226-gbborsalino-fu-lazzaro-c-prospectus/

Albertini 1817 Intra Catalog pre WWII

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/233-albertini-1817-intra-catalog/

 

[RJR]

Art becomes industry

The north of Italy which seems to enjoy nature of conditions favorable to the hatters industry birth.
First of all the availability of water, a key factor in the machining process. And then the skilled labor that is crucial to a production cycle which, at least until the nineteenth century, is mainly manual.
Towards the end of the eighteenth century a character stands out among the manufacturers of hats is Giovan Battista Gnecchi implanting in Milan the first plant "modern" of Italy. Following the example of fellow Parisian Leprevost introduced and perfected the use of silk in hats invoice. Alessandria, Intra, Biella, Monza, Montevarchi are the historical sites of the craft tradition. At the end of the nineteenth century there were also factories in Voghera and Cremona.
Meanwhile also they resisted numerous shops stubbornly attached to the handwork that some, at least at this stage of mechanization is not yet perfect, guaranteed a fancy hat to softness, durability and care in the finish.
In 1857 Giuseppe Borsalino and brother Lazzaro start producing fur hats in a workshop in Alessandria laying the foundations of art that will make their creations synonymous with Italian elegance. Borsalino became famous for its felts "feather" and the model "the diplomatic".
Numerous industries in Intra are documented in 1874.
That was a remnant of an ancient tradition of the area since at least the beginning of the eighteenth century were manufactured hats on the shores of Lake Maggiore. It had been the same Count Borromeo to fund the planting of a fine hat factory.
Hatters intresi decided to become entrepreneurs know the names: Frova, Nava, Petroleum and later at the beginning of the nineteenth century Albertini (1817), but certainly is imposed on all the figure of Giovanni Panizza whose name will become one of the most famous brands in the world .
Open in 1881 Panizza hat factory it will soon reach an undisputed prestige. His name is linked to the sporting and elegant hats at once, made with such lightweight felts Bon Voyage and mixed colored felts obtained by employing a few dozen grams of raw material.
In more recent years the lake shores have given birth to Berrettificio Verbano. Founded by a former employee of Panizza this small company is distinguished by the high quality of workmanship and quality materials.
Another popular Piedmont area for his hat factories is certainly the Biella. Laboratories often craftsmen implanted in the house existed here since the early nineteenth century, but the real transition to the industry came with the birth in 1862 of the company Milanaccio and Rolando Barbisio. The Barbisio hat owes its prodigious spread to the quality of work entrusted to the expert hands of the workers' children and grandchildren hatters ".
Specializes in producing exotic hats, its models were prized and exported to South American markets. In 1897 comes the hat factory Cervo a Sagliano Micca that links its name to the famous "Princeps" synonymous with elegance and quality. Adorno in 1885, a company formed by fifteen hatters gives life to the hat factory Grosso Valtz and C.
Tuscany, undisputed leader in the production of straw hats does not fail to make its contribution also in the hat Felt production: at Montevarchi in the first half of the nineteenth century is on the hat factory Giuseppe Rossi and later, in 1918 Nino Donati begins to produce hats for men and women after having traded braids for making straw hats.

The Tesi Company was founded in 1850 as manufacture of products for the manufacture of straw hats. By the end of the nineteenth century the company became producer of finished hats. Are famous his "Leghorn", the "Magline", the "Sailing" that the whole world knows as the "Chevalier" models, "Boater", "Sailor".

This is a short history of Italian producers of hat, if you have more to add or somenthing to ask......

Thanks.

 

[alanfgag]

Great summary. We would not want to omit Vanzina of Pavia... ;^)

 

[mayserwegener]

Kelly's Directory Of Merchants, Manufacturers And Shippers, 1915, Italian Hat Manufacturers

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionz...-and-shippers-1915-italian-hat-manufacturers/

Kelly's Directory Of Merchants, Manufacturers And Shippers, 1925, Italian Hat Manufacturers

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionz...-and-shippers-1925-italian-hat-manufacturers/

 

[Bob Roberts]

Thank you!

 

[moontheloon]

Great info right there.
The education I get from this place is what truly turns my passion for hats into a borderline obsession.
You guys are the best

 

[Daniele Tanto]

The hats craftsmanship in history

The statutes of the "arts" or the corporations that gathered workers of the same profession and entrepreneurs are the first documents about the hatter's trade. We are in the Comuni period (Communal era), economic life resumes after the crisis of the Middle Ages, the organization of work is perfected, flourish trade. In France they were recognized the Chapeliers de fleur, de Fautre and de paon for feathered hats. Here in Italy hatters are initially part of the guilds of wool workers. Dates back to 1280, the first document attesting the existence of an embryonic Venice Union Artisan Hatters, but it will be in the post-communal period, between the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, which will see the development of independent associations. In Bologna around 1425 we find the first official statutes of the honorable company of Bologna hatters, but other corporations are documented in Città di Castello, in Savona, in Palermo, in Mantua, Brescia, Cremona. It will be in 1742 that the same statute meet the Universitas mercatorum biretorum and pilleorum.

Hatter's workshop was a valuable heritage transmitted as a legacy from father to son together with the brand and banner. The master hatter '700, like all the repositories of practical knowledge that is expressed in continually being refined artifacts, masterpieces of ingenuity and dexterity, is surrounded by an aura of respect. Expert on a subject almost impalpable, iridescent, with a thousand varieties, the hair, plasma and creates the work with water and fire, mythical and symbolic elements. Familiarity with the arcane chemical names and the terrible toxic power (the Campaccio, vitriol, arsenic) make it a mysterious character. Secret is the chemical operation on the hair, without which this material is inert, unsuitable for the purposes of use in the hats processing.

The breath libertarian who travels across Europe with the French Revolution marks the end of corporatism that bound employers and employees in a same association. In Milan and in Monza in 1787 created the first chambers of commerce instead of corporations. The master hatters become more enterprising, they begin to travel, particularly in France. Born in 1873 in Turin the first laboratories capable of creating high-quality felts. Monza becomes an important center for the production and export of wool hats. In Italy as in France it is the Universal Society of hatters that brings together workers in the sector in a pact of "love and brotherhood."

Between the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries are born Pii Institutes in which religious practices are united to the teaching of the hatter profession: those of Turin, Milan, Monza alongside the University Lavoranti Cappellari started in Rome in 1757. The second mid-nineteenth century is characterized by the progressive mechanization of the hat factories and in parallel the strong defense of their professionalism on the part of master hatters threatened by automation. The Society of Mutual Aid for workers in the sector were born, while entrepreneurs create the Union of Manufacturers hats.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Alan I made an unforgivable mistake leaving my keyboard in the glorious name of the hat factory Vanzina - Pavia

I ask pardon also because my Vanzinas in boxes murmur and fret

 

[Daniele Tanto]

A Borsalino history
Over the past hundred years the history of the Borsalino is confused with that of the hat. In fact, even today in some vocabularies of Borsalino Italian language with a lowercase b is considered a synonym of hat identifying product and brand in an indissoluble marriage. So much so that the fortunes of one were those of the other. And when the male headdress began its slow but steady decline in the 'Compagnia di Alessandria” it followed him even in bad times. The great adventure had begun in the middle of last century. 1850 ran the historian of industry Guido Barberis author of several volumes on the company's affairs when a sixteen year old boy, Giuseppe Borsalino, what later would be called “u Siur Pipen”, leaves Alessandria and apprentice working in a hat workshop Sebastiano Camagna to go to France.

France had to learn the eye on the guy Borsalino. He already knew that in Provence, in Lyon and in Bordeaux could gain experience in the best companies in the industry. And so he decides to spend six years of his life in the best French shops concluding the internship in Paris in what was a kind of hat universities: from Berteil in Rue du Temple. He returned to Alessandria in 1857 founding the Giuseppe Borsalino with his brother Lazzaro. Four years later it has 130 employees, twice as high as current and produces 300 hats a day. But it’s just the beginning. Borsalino has understood that the secret is in automation. He use the profits to buy in France, Germany and England the most advanced machines. This is the birth of modern Italian hatters, an industry, within a few decades, would put in the shadow competitors from around the world. The Borsalino, in fact, have an impeccable quality, using excellent raw materials but most are produced thanks to the most advanced of era mechanization.

In the 1870 “u Siur Pipen” founded a factory to produce top hats in Genoa and a hat factory in Venice to exports in the Balkans, confiding it to Henry Robert, a French expert. In 1888, however, Giuseppe Borsalino changes strategy: dismantles establishments in Liguria and Veneto and concentrates production in newborn plant via Cento Cannoni in Alessandria. It is precisely at the turn of the century that the Borsalino tip his cards on export, invading Europe and the United States with its felts. On the death of Joseph in 1900 the company has a thousand workers and produces nearly a million hats in a year. It's up to Teresio Borsalino, the son of Joseph thirty-three bring the factory to its maximum splendor. And in fact during the roaring 20’ factory he touched the roof of the 2 million per year hats, sold in foreign countries to over 50 percent. A period, this, that sees the consolidation of the brand image in the United States and South America.

Unfortunately, the crisis of 1929 gives a first blow to the hat industry. During the following decade the production is halved settling around a million pieces. For the hat is the beginning of the swan song. As Teresio consolidated another family tradition: the charity. An impressive list of works, from the drains of Alessandria to aqueduct, to the elderly resort, to civil hospital and the sanatorium. Not to mention a social policy to cutting edge with Cassa Malattie, Cassa Infortuni, Cassa Pensioni, in addition to an Educational employee’s children. In the early decades of the century, the family Borsalino spends 50 million to charity; Barberis says actualized approaching 50 billion of Italian lire. Few business dynasties have done so much for their city. Perhaps the only possible comparison is between Olivetti and Ivrea. With the disappearance of Teresio Borsalino, in 1939, the comand passes to the great-grandson Teresio Usuelli. This last, was the son of Celestino Usuelli singular figure of aviator, mountaineer and car racer and Julia Strada, daughter of Rosa Borsalino, one of Teresio Borsalino sisters. Teresio second will be an entrepreneur of race, man, strong-willed, endowed with charisma and considerable entrepreneurial skills, unfortunately had to deal with an objective problem: the decline of the hat.

Usuelli also will also pay his consuming love for that accessory (in the past, no one would have considered such) that fashion, changing tastes and changing social conditions withdrawing from everyday life. Mind you, the young Usuelli, which would lead the Borsalino during reconstruction, clashing with unions and reopening to the company the way of export, it was deluded. But a serious business owner who would defend in the trenches the fate of the company. After the war Usuelli rolls up his sleeves and immediately buy the hat factory Vanzina of Pavia thus covering the lower-end market. Exports, however, after the surge to nearly 410,000 units in 1946 down to less than 290,000 in 1948. But Teresio not discouraged and takes it hard.

The heyday after II WW. In the beginning of the 50s the young industrial Alexandrian can feel satisfied. On one side was able to bring back the export beyond 400,000 units regaining one by one the foreign markets energetic. While the other reached the roof of 420-430 thousand hats sold in Italy. At the same time the occupation established around 1600 units recovering in productivity and capacity utilization. Borsalino, which celebrated in 1957 the centenary of activity, appeared to be a solid company that looked at the future with confidence after reaching a point of equilibrium around the 800,000 annual hats. In fact it is just an illusion. Starting from early sixties the slow, steady, customer disaffection for lobbies, felts, top hats and caps becomes now a general habit. Usuelli reacts by expanding the offer with straw hats and cloth. In 1968, he rushes to Moscow, where there was the exhibition of Italian industry. Nothing to do with the Soviets, he did not reached any agreement to expand the activy in the East Europe, while sales continue to decline. Usuelli had this strong passion for the hat to prevent him from diversifying production in clothing as recommended by its advisers. The decline turns into a landslide. The Borsalino hats are the best in the world, the quality of its felts makes school. But people do not want to know. In 1961 Borsalino produces 603,000 pieces, ten years later it comes down to share 470 000 while in 1981 when Teresio passes the activities to Vittorio Vaccarino, descending from another daughter of former owners. From this moment, the Borsalino is no longer a myth, but a company that does what it can to survive. During the 80 we will see the sale of the historic factory in Via Cento Cannoni and a series of fast-paced changes of ownership. Giuseppe Borsalino, sales dropped to 231,000 units with 330 employees.Today Borsalino has about sixty employees and a turnover of about 9 billion. The control is in the hands of Fisi, financial Milan chaired by Viviana Lecchi Usuelli while Giovanna, wife of Teresio, retains a minority stake. The production of hats now resized was sided by the gloves and scarves. The company has also given its name to a perfume. Of the heroic times of Joseph and the two Teresi it remains only the brand appeal.

This was the situation in Borsalino at the end of 1990

This article appeared in the newspaper La Repubblica October 12, 1990

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Hatters in Monza
At Monza, small town near Milan, processing of wool felt hat has very ancient origins.
Since 1600 the Monza artisans were the most important producers of the region and hats in 1700 this activity became the driving sector of the whole economy Monza.
Monza was the sole supplier of large quantities of goods for the armies of Napoleon.
In the second half of the hat industry showed further signs of development, counting at least 20 hat factories.
At the end of the '800 the Monza industry reached such a consistency to export their hats in the world.
Development continued in the following decades, doubling the number of hat factories at the beginning of 900.
In 1911 were active 50 establishments and were employed 4412 workers.
They were also numerous factories for the production side such as shapes, linings and machinery.
The industry reached the peak of maximum expansion in the twenties with almost 12,000 employees on a working population of 30-35mila people.
The hat factories became model establishments with rational systems: raw wool entered and exited the finished hat.
Industrialists and trade unions of Monza, careful to professional training, January 7 1913, inaugurated the "hat" School but was short-lived. Their first-year pupils were 28 "of all ages from kids to grown men."
The haters were a privileged class as labor was highly specialized and master of the craft, although the working conditions were extremely difficult and unhealthy.
The sites where it carries out the work were saturated with moisture and wool dust. Working always in contact with hot steam hatters had swollen hands and covered with blisters, the palms covered with thick calluses.
In 1894, after numerous strikes erupted to salary issues, the organization was established "Workers Hatters Union".
At the end of' 900 had 90% of active workers in the hat factories.
In 1902, after strenuous struggles, it was signed the first contract of employment or, as we said at the time: a charge, a schedule, a regulation.

The hat industry also felt the need to join in partnership, as had happened to their workers in the very earliest times, and obviously completely different purposes: The oldest was "Union manufacturers hatters Monza", built in 1892 .
In 1897 it was founded in Milan the first "Hat Makers Italian Association". The new association, despite having national character, significantly had its headquarters in Monza.
It is mythologized figure of the entrepreneur-hatter: pioneers such as Carlo Ricci, the Cambiaghi, Paleari, Villa and the Carozzi.

The expansion of the working class and union pressure eventually create in 1902 the Federation between Monza industry, first entrepreneurial association in Italy.

It is no coincidence that, again in 1902, just the '' Union workers hatters " Monza gets the first collective agreement, agreed with the newly formed Federation of Industrialists, the first built in the Italian employers association, chaired by Carlo Ricci hatter.
After the period of greatest expansion in the 30's began the decline: the fashion of women's hat is exhausted, the car and the bike more and more reduced the use of the man's hat.
Many businesses closed their doors.
Japan became from importer to exporter, invading with its products the Middle East.
In South Africa they arose factories felt and hats, so also in Europe and in Central America.
In Monza, in the '80s they survived entrepreneurs artisans devoted to the processing of third parties and the finishing of the hats (linings, trimmings and sweatbands).
Today only one survives hatter in Monza, the small company Fratelli Vimercati.
Trivia: The only evidence that remains in Monza is the home of the former Cappellificio Monzese, now serving as the central offices of the Italian Post

 

[TheDane]

This is an awesome thread, loaded with historical information. Thank you, Danielle - I really appreciate your great effort

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Today opens a new chapter in my knowledge of Italian hats manufacturers.
Finally I managed to find on the market the social and economic history with the fundamentals of the Italian hatters from birth until the Second World War.

"L'arte dei cappellai" di Giuseppe Maria Longoni.
Labor, business and organizations of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries.
The book consists of 360 pages dedicated to the birth and growth of Italian businesses about the production of hats with data on the number of workers and the export data.

Also follow the stories of geographic centers where the production of the hat was the major source of income.
The iconography is poor, but bear with me and we will also have some illustrations.

I found many answers to my questions, so if you have any curiosity data available are many and allow you to read the economic and social history of the Italian hatters.

Why G.B. Borsalino fu Lazzaro was bought by Giuseppe Borsalino?

 

[Chepstow]

Really fantastic Book Daniele, congrats to this find!


Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk

 

[mayserwegener]

Daniele, Super! Looks a wealth of information. Definitely interested in details regarding G.B. Borsalino fu Lazzaro. Also any other information you can present. The second photo with the hats is from "La Gazzeta dei Capellai" which was the Italian Hat Industry Newspaper.

 

[Iwearabowtie]

I have a question, but am unsure if this is the right thread for it. I recently purchased a Borsalino top hat and was wondering if anyone had any information on top hats from Borsalino. This is the first top hat I've seen from Borsalino, but it seems to be an older one. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your time!

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Iwearabowtie, for your question, the best thread is Borsalino Brotherhood http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/the-borsalino-brotherhood.13133/page-236
The best is to have some pictures of the top hat Borsalino produced.
Yes they made top hats and bowler.....

 

[Daniele Tanto]

This monthly magazine "Il Cappello" dated March 1929 is the substitute during the fascist regime of "La Gazzetta dei Cappellai" jounal of the hatters corporation

The compendium has a really interesting first contribution "The Customs tightening measures on the hats in the US"

For all the lovers of hats producers history see carefully the tabula with the numbers of imported hats in the USA in the 1928 and the correspondent amount in US dollars

In those numbers there are also the ruin of G.B. Borsalino fu Lazzaro that had as main client the United States of America

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Here there are the advertising pages published in "Il Cappello" March 1929

There are famous and still in activity hats producers

Ribbon producers and machines vendors

The Monza hatters production and commercial power, particularly for wool hats

Medium and small hatters that no one today know

Those were the heyday of the Italian hatters....see the numbers of exportation in the USA in the above thread

 

[mayserwegener]

Daniele, Fantastic! These are very important documents. I can't see the text clearly in the third photo. Can you give a brief overview of what is on this page?