A question about vintage (/repro) denim...

[BigBrother]

Hey all! Vintage denim is certainly something I’ve seen from afar but never really got into until potentially just now. Here is the reason I’m interested and wanted to ask you guys about it: I have for years and years and years tried to find jeans that fit the way I want. I’m basically looking for relatively snug jeans that fit somewhere between a modern straight and boot cut– not too much flaring but not tight around the ankle either. Sounds like something very easy to find, but trust me when I say I’ve looked at scores and scores of brands and cuts and nothing quite does it! I’ve all but given up on “the current”, as seems to now be the growing case for me with so many products today (sound familiar, hmm? )

I know that a lot of vintage denim is sort of “pipe” cut and so I began to wonder if maybe my solution lies there!

My concern is that most of it might be too open/loose/baggy for what I’m after.

I was wondering if you could A) chime in with any references/suggestions, B) let me know if there is/are any standard reproduction maker(s) so I don’t have to go deep hunting for this (and I prefer new in this case for a few other reasons), and C) I guess just, as usual, any interesting tidbits, information, wisdom, experience, etc.!

Thanks so much!!

 

[bn1966]

I’ve found Pike Brothers to be excellent value with an extensive range

https://pikebrothers-shop.com/ItemList_filter.action?filter=1&menuMainGrp=00001100&menuGrp=00001012

 

[Blackadder]

Don't know how many brands you have looked at. If you can find a RRL store, give their slim straight model a try. No need to buy them there, just try them and if you like them you can find plenty on ebay. Another brand is Tellason, you can find both slim straight and regular straight. They are not repros rather they are a more modern fit.
https://www.tellason.com/raw-selvedge-denim-jeans-pants/?sort=featured&page=2

 

[mullitt]

Where do you live? There is usually a good vintage store in basically every city in the US, the best thing to do is find something you like and then if you want a new repro version the internet and this forum can be a good resource in finding a match.

 

[BigBrother]

Where do you live? There is usually a good vintage store in basically every city in the US, the best thing to do is find something you like and then if you want a new repro version the internet and this forum can be a good resource in finding a match.

I’m in Southern California.

 

[mullitt]

I’m in Southern California.

Dude, you have so many options. First place you should check out is the Mister Freedom store in Los Angeles. They have a ton of stuff. Also like Blackadder said, the RRL store is great.

edit: I will just add, I would always recommend just trying stuff on. Especially at the higher end places like Mister Freedom the guys will know how to help you find what you're looking for. I personally am not a fan of online shopping for stuff you haven't worn before.

 

[BigBrother]

Dude, you have so many options. First place you should check out is the Mister Freedom store in Los Angeles. They have a ton of stuff. Also like Blackadder said, the RRL store is great.

edit: I will just add, I would always recommend just trying stuff on. Especially at the higher end places like Mister Freedom the guys will know how to help you find what you're looking for. I personally am not a fan of online shopping for stuff you haven't worn before.

Yeah I vastly prefer in person. I was basically hoping, after the responses started coming in here, to find some sort of denim palace where someone could listen, look, and advise me on exactly what I’m after. It’s been literally decades in malls, dept stores, and online hell trying to solve this. I also saw Self Edge and Denim Revival, no clue if good.

 

[mullitt]

Yeah I vastly prefer in person. I was basically hoping, after the responses started coming in here, to find some sort of denim palace where someone could listen, look, and advise me on exactly what I’m after. It’s been literally decades in malls, dept stores, and online hell trying to solve this. I also saw Self Edge and Denim Revival, no clue if good.

Self Edge is great. Never been to Denim Revival.

 

[handymike]

Self Edge is the way to go to try out all sorts of brands!
Another fantastic place is Freenote Cloth. They have 2 stores: San Juan Capistrano and Highland Park. They make their own, and have a good variety of cuts in great denims. I’ve found the staff patient and helpful. They remind me of the old Rising Sun Jeans when you could go to Eagle Rock and get them custom made.
Santa Barbara has Ace Rivington who also makes his own, and the owner is friendly.

 

[Blackadder]

RRL also has a slim boot cut. Cuffs work with cowboy or harness boots but not so much with engineer boots.
For cheaper options, there are the Wrangler 936 and Levi's 527.
I am not sure the "vintage" cuts would suit you. However do try them on because it depends on your body. For example, LVC 1890 to 1944 are in general relaxed cut unless you have huge legs. 1947 and 1954 are slim but 1954 is tapered. 1955 relaxed again. 1966 and onward are tapered and would not fit well over tall boots. Most selvedge rigid jeans do shrink so best ask if they do shrink and if yes then any washed/soaked samples that you can try on.

 

[BigBrother]

Thanks so much, all! I will certainly have a hit list once I finish my vaccinations. Keep ‘em coming!

 

[CatsCan]

To define the vintage cut is difficult. Sounds like you are more after a late 60s to late 70s cut but on the less extreme side: tight with a bit of flare to the cuffs. Many of us watched "Magnum" or other TV-series. I guess the jeans worn by the actors are pretty close to what you want? Or more Bon Scott like ball squeezers (late 70s)? Like Blackadder said, it depends on your stature. If my considerations are close, a typical jeans would have: stretch, zipper instead of buttons, a flare (you can get a too wide flare altered to your liking at the seamstress), a mid high to high waist. This would definitely be Dirty Deeds.

 

[CatsCan]

 

[CatsCan]

Less extreme: Levis 527 bootcut.

Or if Bon Scott:
Comycom Star Blue 72

 

[BigBrother]

I actually was working with 527s for weeks and weeks with my tailor. We took in the calf and opening and just tried everything to make them work. Unfortunately they’re just cut very strangely from the waist down to the knee (she said it, and then I really saw it) so they were a no-go. Pity.

 

[CatsCan]

Unfortunately they’re just cut very strangely from the waist down to the knee

That was what I thought could be the case with their today's proportions. The 527 cut has changed quite a lot to make them fit the modern average figure better. You could try to get an older pair in unused condition, but to find one in your size from the 80s will be a challenge. Maybe the Comycom shown above is a better (truer) cut and with altered leg openings will fit you well. Don't know if you can get them where you are, though..

 

[CatsCan]

You can do a quick search for atomretro and Madcap England Rock Flare Bell Bottom Jeans. I think those are basically the same. They are cheap enough to try even with the additional costs of altering the flare to your liking.

 

[handymike]

Have you tried Old Navy Boot-cut?
Also, I think Wrangler makes a “slim boot-cut”.
https://www.amazon.com/Wrangler-Vin...r+vintage+bootcut+jeans&qid=1620138918&sr=8-3

 

[BigBrother]

Have you tried Old Navy Boot-cut?
Also, I think Wrangler makes a “slim boot-cut”.

I haven’t tried Old Navy in forever but that’s a great idea. American Eagle, with their Original Straight, was actually my go-to for awhile (did need to widen the openings just a tad) but wouldn’t ya know it? Bought a whole new batch and they upped and changed the fit. Awesome. Guess “Original” doesn’t mean what it used to anymore .

Wrangler I tried and were too “cowboy” for me .

 

[CatsCan]

Old Navy - yep, good suggestion!
If this also is a zero, what about bespoke denim pants? If I were you and desperate enough, I would definitely consider this, too.