A Made-in-Japan Excelled Racer: I need some context here...

[Jumper]

I just picked up this Excelled jacket online, and I could use some info and opinions. I got it because I liked the look and don't already have a jacket in quite the same style/cut.

Unfortunately, there were some issues undisclosed by the seller. I don't mind some flaws in a used jacket—they lend some character, and, after all, it's not like I paid Cal money for this one. How "okay" to be with flaws is down to personal preferences and will vary widely, but since I don't really know anything about this jacket, I feel like I don't have a context for judging. I'm aware Excelled jackets are generally considered lower-end, but I've always liked their look, and if there's something special or unusual or interesting about this one, it would make a difference to me. Also, maybe I'm just being too persnickety.

So, I guess the two main things I want to know, along with whatever else you might want to throw in, are:

1. Is there anything intrinsically special about this jacket?, and
2. On this particular jacket, how much would you be okay with letting slide?

The things I find interesting/cool about it:

First, it's made in Japan, which I didn't know was a thing with Excelled.

I like the tapered cut. Love the grain. Dig the lining. Also like the...what are they called?—vents? in the bottom hem. And the YKK zipper pulls on the cuffs are cool—interesting shape and kinda chunky. Haven't noticed these before.

Speaking of zipper pulls, the main Talon is curved (or kinked, rather). I would guess this was how it was made, but I suppose it could have been done (neatly) by an owner. I like it. It's cool, and is a great ergonomic fit for one's fingers when grabbing onto it. I have no idea how to date it, though.

The problems/issues:

Well, the sizing is off from what the seller claimed, though this isn't really a huge problem: rather than being slightly snug as I expected, it's just a bit roomy instead—not, by itself, something I'd return it for. Also, it's missing a chest zipper ring pull, but I can't imagine that's going to take much effort to source.

There's no elastic running between the shoulder gussets. Shouldn't there be? There's nothing there now, anyway, and, feeling around each gusset, I don't feel any hanging from either one, so it seems there never was any elastic? The gussets are a maybe a bit poofy, and don't stay folded in, but I wouldn't say they look like there's something wrong with them.

There's an open segment about 3/4 of an inch long in the left sleeve seam. Looks like something I might be able to close up well enough myself, but I haven't tried something like that before.

There are two small holes, each maybe 2–3 millimeters wide, in the right sleeve. (Are these repairable, and is it worthwhile to do so, or would you leave it be?)

The main zipper is pretty damned wavy, and the left side of the jacket front seems misaligned from the right, as can be seen with how the collar meets unevenly—the left side being noticeably higher than the right. (It's actually even a bit higher than in the photo, when that area above the zipper is straightened out.) I reckon both of those issues could be remedied by having the zipper removed then reattached with everything straightened out, but again, I have no idea if it would be worth the cost.

 

[Jumper]

Also there's some undone stitching in the leather along the underside of the zipper:

A few more pics...

Wavy gravy:

Good grain:

Sleeve holes:

So there you have it. I'd appreciate any insight. As my 11th grade English teacher used to ask after all her lectures: "Questions? Comments? Snide remarks?"

 

[Monitor]

Waaay too many issues. I'd personally buy it for $20 or less but if you paid more & can still return it, I strongly suggest you do so. Leather jacket with holes is a huge no in my book, plus the misaligned zipper, overall poor construction, possible relining and all the other weird stuff... I just wouldn't enjoy wearing this jacket at all, especially considering Excelled are usually great jackets and you can find them very cheap.
Bent zipper pull is the least of the issues this jacket's got.

Another major issue you should take a note of is that the sleeves have been shortened on this jacket as well. On Excelled jackets, the sleeves usually extend a 1" - 1.5" below the end of the zipper, so the cuffs wouldn't push against your hands once fully zipped (like I said, they're really good, fantastically designed jackets & the basis on which they're considered "lower end" is only their abundance and often questionable leather, but Excelled in that right horse/cow hide is as impressive as anything you can buy). Plus they're always finished, which is to say, the cuffs are stitched.

On a positive side, the Made in Japan thing is pretty interesting and something I haven't seen before, too and I like this lining but that's about it. It's still a good jacket so if you don't care for the issues, all the better but... I don't think I'd buy it, myself.

 

[Carlos840]

I agree with Monitor, the holes, the bad main zipper chainge ( there are visible holes in the underside in the 6th and 7th pics and i am pretty sure i can see two rows of stitching...)
If it was me i would return it, unless i had paid 25$ for it.
If you have to spend money on that jacket you are never going to make it back.
Only reason to keep it would be if you wanted to start doing leather work and wanted to experiment with fixing it yourself.

 

[Yamahana]

What an interesting coincidence for you to post this jacket. I just purchased this “Excelled made in Japan” myself last night, hasn’t even shipped yet. To my eye this is obviously a Sears Oakbrook D-pocket or one built to imitate it. I assumed someone just put the label on. Bartered back and forth with the seller for a month or so, when the price got low enough I decided to take a chance on it. I already have an Oakbrook D-pocket so I’ll be able to compare them side by side when it arrives.

 

[Jumper]

Very cool. I saw that and had been thinking about it, but the measurements were just all wrong for me. Glad you got it!

 

[Jumper]

Waaay too many issues. I'd personally buy it for $20 or less but if you paid more & can still return it, I strongly suggest you do so. Leather jacket with holes is a huge no in my book, plus the misaligned zipper, overall poor construction, possible relining and all the other weird stuff... I just wouldn't enjoy wearing this jacket at all, especially considering Excelled are usually great jackets and you can find them very cheap.
Bent zipper pull is the least of the issues this jacket's got.

Another major issue you should take a note of is that the sleeves have been shortened on this jacket as well. On Excelled jackets, the sleeves usually extend a 1" - 1.5" below the end of the zipper, so the cuffs wouldn't push against your hands once fully zipped (like I said, they're really good, fantastically designed jackets & the basis on which they're considered "lower end" is only their abundance and often questionable leather, but Excelled in that right horse/cow hide is as impressive as anything you can buy). Plus they're always finished, which is to say, the cuffs are stitched.

On a positive side, the Made in Japan thing is pretty interesting and something I haven't seen before, too and I like this lining but that's about it. It's still a good jacket so if you don't care for the issues, all the better but... I don't think I'd buy it, myself.

I agree with Monitor, the holes, the bad main zipper chainge ( there are visible holes in the underside in the 6th and 7th pics and i am pretty sure i can see two rows of stitching...)
If it was me i would return it, unless i had paid 25$ for it.
If you have to spend money on that jacket you are never going to make it back.
Only reason to keep it would be if you wanted to start doing leather work and wanted to experiment with fixing it yourself.

This is super helpful guys! Just what I was looking for. I guess the main reason I saw for keeping it was that I wondered if an Excelled made in Japan was, like, super rare or something, and worth having as a collector's item. In any case, I'll be returning it. Thanks for the insights, and for pointing out the stuff I hadn't even noticed. I really appreciate it!

 

[Monitor]

This is super helpful guys! Just what I was looking for. I guess the main reason I saw for keeping it was that I wondered if an Excelled made in Japan was, like, super rare or something, and worth having as a collector's item. In any case, I'll be returning it. Thanks for the insights, and for pointing out the stuff I hadn't even noticed. I really appreciate it!

Early horsehide Excelled jackets are somewhat valuable but you'd still have tough time selling it for a decent amount of $. And they're better known for their cross zips, which are truly outstanding & had they used better leather and put some more effort into workmanship, their jackets could've easily been among the best cross zips on the market.

But anyway, this jacket definitely isn't considered very valuable on the vintage market and in all honesty, you'd have a tough time selling it as it is.
When it comes to vintage jackets, Made in USA is what it's all about (or UK, if you're looking at a British brand). Back then, Made in Japan only meant cutting costs and (usually) low(er) quality. Lots of US makers first moved production to Japan first to save up and it was only after that China and subsequently Pakistan / India took over.

 

[Jumper]

When it comes to vintage jackets, Made in USA is what it's all about (or UK, if you're looking at a British brand). Back then, Made in Japan only meant cutting costs and (usually) low(er) quality. Lots of US makers first moved production to Japan first to save up and it was only after that China and subsequently Pakistan / India took over.

This is really good to know; I would have guessed the opposite, that "Made in Japan" denoted something special. Thanks. I've just arranged the return.

 

[Yamahana]

I'm probably the least knowledgeable person I know. I have owned a few vintage Excelled jackets and seen listings for dozens if not hundreds of others but these are the only made in Japan labels I've seen and I've never seen an Excelled D-pocket before. I'm not suggesting them to be rare or valuable just an oddity I've not seen before. I'm curious to know the origin of the label and how it all came to be. I’ll be very surprised if it’s not a Sears Oakbrook masquerading as an Excelled. It even has the black corduroy trimmed inside breast pocket.

 

[Monitor]

I'm probably the least knowledgeable person I know. I have owned a few vintage Excelled jackets and seen listings for dozens if not hundreds of others but these are the only made in Japan labels I've seen and I've never seen an Excelled D-pocket before. I'm not suggesting them to be rare or valuable just an oddity I've not seen before. I'm curious to know the origin of the label and how it all came to be. I’ll be very surprised if it’s not a Sears Oakbrook masquerading as an Excelled. It even has the black corduroy trimmed inside breast pocket.
View attachment 346104

Agreed. Can't recall ever spotting an Excelled D-pocket either and it's sure not tryna hide it's later Sears D-pocket inspiration. Could be it was Japan exclusive as this too used to be a thing and still is with some brands (Schott, for instance, each year comes up with something you can't buy in the US, even though that's where it's made).

But you've sort of touched the core issue I'm having with this hobby - Or actually rather what it turned out to be instead of how it started off. Seems to me that nowadays near nobody really cares anymore about oddities like this which ought have been a major part of the scene. Vintage goes as far as Buco and ends at whatever Japan slaps together with pretty much everything else in between being basically irrelevant. Brands that are better known just keep whatever price they got stuck with by 2010 and anything less known is worthless, regardless of quality. You've got people who've been thru tons of jackets still being unable to make a call what's good and what's not. I'll again refer to Annex Apparel which you'll often see pop up at something ridiculous while they're literally Langlitz quality, only more unique and better fitting.

Some collector would sure find this Japan made Excelled very interesting and worthy of attention but. . .

 

[JMax]

^^^ agreed about AA. Unique for sure.

 

[Yamahana]

After awhile it did become one of those itches I just had to scratch. Plus at such a reasonable price “I couldn’t afford not to buy it”. I’ve never got my wife to fall for that line. but I know you Brethren of Vintage Outerwear know exactly what I’m talking about.

 

[lina]

For a minority report, I have to say that I like the OP's cafe racer jacket. Admitting the problems detailed above, if it fit me and looked good I would wear the heck out of it. I like the lines of the jacket, and it's an unusual (to me) lining for a CR.

With regard to elastic in the shoulder gussets, I think a lot of the lower end/thinner weight jackets did not have that. My cheap Beau Breed CR does not, which is really the only thing I don't like about it, so that the gussets are permanently "blown out."

@Jumper Any pics of you wearing the jacket?

 

[Jumper]

For a minority report, I have to say that I like the OP's cafe racer jacket. Admitting the problems detailed above, if it fit me and looked good I would wear the heck out of it. I like the lines of the jacket, and it's an unusual (to me) lining for a CR.

With regard to elastic in the shoulder gussets, I think a lot of the lower end/thinner weight jackets did not have that. My cheap Beau Breed CR does not, which is really the only thing I don't like about it, so that the gussets are permanently "blown out."

@Jumper Any pics of you wearing the jacket?

Thanks for the feedback, and the info on gusset elastic! Yeah, I like the cut and shape, and of course I looked awesome in it, but no fit pics, unfortunately, and it's boxed and ready to go back tomorrow.

I haven't had great luck lately with jackets, as the last couple I've bought have turned out to be quite a bit different from how they were listed and depicted. It's getting tiresome, depending on sellers to be honest / pay attention / inspect thoroughly / measure correctly, etc. Honestly, I think if I had a Star Trek transporter, 90% of its use would be me trying on ebay jackets before buying. I should be quite content with what I have already, which is way more than one man needs. Among the various jackets in my closet is a black J-100-style gold label Brooks, and I don't know why I look for anything else ... warts and all, with all its imperfections, it's friggin' perfect.

 

[Yamahana]

My assumption of a Sears Oakbrook D-pocket in disguise was definitely incorrect. It seems to have styling cues influenced by the Sears Oakbrook design right down to the black corduroy trim. The D-Pocket its self is completely different.

I did find another exact same build of jacket but with a Luxury Leather made in Japan label.

…so the mystery continues as to who made these.

 

[JMax]

My assumption of a Sears Oakbrook D-pocket in disguise was definitely incorrect. It seems to have styling cues influenced by the Sears Oakbrook design right down to the black corduroy trim. The D-Pocket its self is completely different.
View attachment 349581 View attachment 349582 View attachment 349583 View attachment 349584 View attachment 349585

I did find another exact same build of jacket but with a Luxury Leather made in Japan label.
View attachment 349587 View attachment 349588
…so the mystery continues as to who made these.

That is the coolest and best looking Excelled I have seen. I’d proudly own and wear that. Very nice.

 

[Flying Monkey]

The apparent differences in quality of Excelled is really amazing. I'd take any of the above jackets in my size. I've had one older "made in usa" Excelled and it was garbage. I sold it at a loss immediately.