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A Guide to dating Talon Zippers (updated and revised)

Dinerman

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How to help date your jacket and other items based on their zippers, 1910s-present. Guides for dating the pull, the stop box, the slider and the top-stops.

Separable bottomed zippers, where you can disengage the two sides of the zipper, as found on jackets, were first introduced in 1930. The changes in component styles made by Talon since then can help pin down the dating of your vintage clothing. Keep in mind that there was overlap in the changeovers in component styles, which is to say, you may have a jacket with a stop box most commonly used in the late 1930s and a slider most commonly used in the mid 1940s. Hardware like this also didn't always get used immediately, so earlier hardware may have found its way into later garments. There are variations found in all the components below, with each machine used in the Talon factory producing components with slightly different typefaces and logo sizing. There are also exceptions to the dating, like the long pull 1970s puller in the third row down on the right, which was most commonly seen on jackets in that era, but which could be found on luggage as early as the 1930s.

 
Last edited:

Seb Lucas

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7,562
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Australia
Wow. I think it's interesting how hardware from an earlier era may have found its way on later items, thus confusing dates. I certainly know of a jacket maker here who used lables that were made for the company decades earlier.
 

nick123

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This can/should be stickied. It would be a good tool (assuming the zippers weren't changed on a given jacket) to date jackets for a lot of people.
 

VintageEveryday

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Woodside, NY
20170930_231240.jpg anybody know the rough decade on this? I believe it's late 40s
 

Kyliefornia

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How to help date your jacket and other items based on their zippers, 1910s-present. Guides for dating the pull, the stop box, the slider and the top-stops.

Separable bottomed zippers, where you can disengage the two sides of the zipper, as found on jackets, were first introduced in 1930. The changes in component styles made by Talon since then can help pin down the dating of your vintage clothing. Keep in mind that there was overlap in the changeovers in component styles, which is to say, you may have a jacket with a stop box most commonly used in the late 1930s and a slider most commonly used in the mid 1940s. Hardware like this also didn't always get used immediately, so earlier hardware may have found its way into later garments. There are variations found in all the components below, with each machine used in the Talon factory producing components with slightly different typefaces and logo sizing. There are also exceptions to the dating, like the long pull 1970s puller in the third row down on the right, which was most commonly seen on jackets in that era, but which could be found on luggage as early as the 1930s.

 

Kyliefornia

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Is this picture available in better resolution? The text is almost unreadable even magnified and photo bucket link is gone. Let me know!!! Would greatly appreciate it!!
 

Peacoat

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Is this picture available in better resolution? The text is almost unreadable even magnified and photo bucket link is gone. Let me know!!! Would greatly appreciate it!!
Are you on a phone or a laptop. I'm on a laptop, and have no problem reading any of it. The superimposed PhotoBucket image is a bit distracting.
 

Will Zach

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Here is another copy of the zipper picture that didn't go through PhotoBucket. See if it works better for you, and try it on a laptop or other full screen device.

View attachment 331859
@Peacoat, this is awesome. I also had trouble reading Dinerman's original pic, I even resorted to Photoshop contrast enhancement and sharpening, lol, but did not thought of @Kyliefornia excellent idea to ask for a higher rez pic. This is VERY helpful!
 

Peacoat

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@Peacoat - on my laptop and 24" monitor this is really clear now! Thanks for sharing this new image.

@Peacoat, this is awesome. I also had trouble reading Dinerman's original pic, I even resorted to Photoshop contrast enhancement and sharpening, lol, but did not thought of @Kyliefornia excellent idea to ask for a higher rez pic. This is VERY helpful!

Glad the new image worked for you. I also posted it in the Guides' section under Dinerman's original pic. At some point I may remove the original, but am reluctant to do so right now (don't want to screw up the thread).

Now if @Kyliefornia will come back and see the updated image.
 
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Kyliefornia

New in Town
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3
Glad the new image worked for you. I also posted it in the Guides' section under Dinerman's original pic. At some point I may remove the original, but am reluctant to do so right now (don't want to screw up the thread).

Now if @Kyliefornia will come back and see the updated image.
So very helpful!!! Crystal clear on this one! I REALLY appreciate it!!
 

Juanmasubbie

New in Town
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1
This zipper is Talon but it is not in the pictoric reference document. It is a Mexican Made leather bag.
 

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jeo

Call Me a Cab
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2,082
Location
Philadelphia
The code was already cracked but here is a Talon hallmark dating guide.

You’ll need to narrow down era from the pull and stop and if you have the hallmark, this will help you nail down an exact date.

I’ll also post in the other two main zipper threads.

IMG_0042.jpeg
 

TLW '90

Practically Family
Messages
766
Anyone know the age of this one?
In the OP it says " 1910's-present " but doesn't go past the 70's so where's the " present " ?

I'm thinking 80's because it has the 80's+ woolrich logo, but am not positive.
 

tmitchell59

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7,785
Location
Illinois
This has been an informative thread. I want to add this information on finding the letter and year date code referenced above.

Two common Talon zippers found on vintage jackets are the grommet assembly and the Sunrise.

I used the Ralphs-Pugh police jacket and a Roughwear Admiral Byrd

20241214_144129.jpg



The Sunrise
20241214_142838_resized.jpg
20241214_142847_resized.jpg


The date code is on the bottom edge. D0 = April 1940

During WWII they used a pot metal stop which may have a number on the face; 1 2 3 or 4 representing the war years.

The Sunrise box is see with a variety of pulls. The one pictured is most common.

20241214_142920_resized.jpg



The oldest grommet zipper i have is dated 1932. That assembly is identical to this assembly from 1939.

The Steerhide label in this Ralphs-Pugh jacket was registered in 1938.

20241214_142706.jpg
20241214_142727.jpg
20241214_142812.jpg


The date code is here

20241214_142812_resized.jpg
 

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