A Detachable Collar Question

[volvomeister13]

I am planning to invest in a tunic shirt and some detachable collars. Given that you add 1/2 inch to the tunic shirt's neck size to determine the proper collar size (e.g. 15" tunic shirt with a 15.5" collar), which of those measurements should correspond to the wearer's neck size?

If I normally wear a 15.5" collar on a regular attached collar shirt, should I get a 15" tunic shirt and 15.5" collar, or a 15.5" tunic shirt and 16" collar? If anyone knows this it would be really helpful since I'm planning on ordering from England and can't try the goods on beforehand.

Thanks!

 

[Nick D]

Typically, the band on the shirt is your actual neck size, and the collar is a half size up from that.

 

[dhermann1]

I ordered a detachable collar from Darcy (which I've gotten a number of great things from) and added that half inch to the measurement. The collar that I received is just a little too big. I was pretty disappointed. So that's just one person's experience.

 

[Nick D]

There's no real standard to the things, unfortunately. I've had some collars that were a full inch bigger than the stated size. The only way to really know is to try it on, which is a concern with overseas shipping. You could always sell it if it doesn't fit.

 

[BR Gordon]

Most of my collars are from Darcy, and I follow their guidelines, add 1/2" to neck size. All of my stiff wing and spearpoint collars fit, but some of my others are a little large, but probably no more than 1/4" to 3/8". I think that the size differences vary by collar style rather than random differences.

 

[Hap Hapablap]

I ordered a detachable collar from Darcy (which I've gotten a number of great things from) and added that half inch to the measurement. The collar that I received is just a little too big. I was pretty disappointed. So that's just one person's experience.

I totally agree. I never understood why one would want a collar that's one size too large. I think a slightly crimped tunic neck (at your actual size) concealed by a detachable collar (at your actual size) is probably the best compromise. I have the benefit of having my tunic shirts and collars custom-made, so I am not sure what math is done by the maker, but everything works out perfectly, as well as buying stiff collars from Darcy at my actual neck size.

 

[Nick D]

If the collar and neckband are exactly the same, the crumpling of the band tends to make it work its way out from under the collar. It's only attached at front and back, and I've noticed this on a couple of my shirts. Could be less of a problem with custom-made, where the shirtmaker is able to adjust things just so.

 

[BR Gordon]

I would think that the crumpling neckband would get rather uncomfortable after a short time.

 

[Cobden]

I'd usually go half an inch larger, though it varies by manufacturer (some include the additional half inch in their measurements, so you buy in you actual size. IIRC Van Heusan did this). Part of the problem is, of course, that very few of us have necks in exact half size measurements, that can cause some problems - if you are actually a 15 and a quarter, for example, your shirt neckband is going to be quarter of an inch too big or small and thus your collar potentially three quarters of an inch too big. Even with attach collared shirts, I find my size can vary from 14 and a half and 15 and a half depending on manufacturer due to what I presume is vanity sizing, fear of shrinkage or just elastic tape-measures...

 

[Nick D]

(some include the additional half inch in their measurements, so you buy in you actual size. IIRC Van Heusan did this)

Yes, their wax paper envelopes had a recommendation to buy their collars a half size smaller than you would other collars.

 

[Dreamofgilgamesh]

I'm planning on ordering from England and can't try the goods on beforehand.

Thanks!

Where are you planning to get your shirt from? Irecently bought one from TM Lewin, who include a day collar with the shirt. I take a 15.5" collar and I recently bought half a dozen Van Heusen collars in 16" to wear with my new shirt and they all fit a treat. It's generaly accepted that you need to order the shirt to your true collar size and the collars a 1/2" larger.

 

[GHT]

I seem to be swimming against the current. All my detachables are equal size, never had a problem, they are though, all fastened with a collar stud. Perhaps the extra half size might be needed if they were button fastened.
The button holes on both shirt and collar can be repositioned, as can the buttons (if you use them.)
I am about to make my first spearpoint, detachable, I had no plan to increase the collar size. Be interesting to see if the result fits.

 

[Sir RBH]

There is always confusion with collars and shirt size.. As you know I sell tunis shirts and collars and some clients buy a collar 1/2" larger than the neckband shirt size.. as is the tradition.. but in reality its quite possible to accommodate hat 1/2" in the sizing.. So my rule of thumb is choose the collar size that is perfect for you and then but a couple shirts , one the same size as the collar and one 1/2" smaller and then you should be ok with both....

Of course, to complicate the issue further.. each shirt manufacturer may have a slightly different opinion on this and the actual size of the shirt may be slightly larger than it states.. just to accommodate the size up on the collar... oh.. its a minefield Gentlemen!!!

 

[Anthony Jordan]

Indeed. I follow the 1/2" rule but I find that collar sizes 1/4" up (not many of these about, of course) do equally well. As Sir RBH says, it also depends very much on the maker, with some makers' shirts coming up true, some small and some large. Personally I favour T. M. Lewin, even though they come up slightly small on me and their tunic shirt range has sadly contracted of late.

 

[cookie]

Detachable 20s collars

Some interesting stuff here from styleforum.net

http://www.styleforum.net/t/328632/...thing-and-accessories-thread/540#post_6485716

 

[zeppe]

agree!

 

[Evan Everhart]

Talk to their sales representative, they should have some idea of how to address and answer your question if you have a true measurement of your neck handy, anyway. Write them, I'm sure they'd be more than happy to answer your questions. Aside from that, I generally just go by the manufacturer's or distributor's recommendations with regard to the interplay of collar and shirt, and of course, having your tunic shirts custom made really does answer a great many of the problems.