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3 Questions about waistcoats, shirts, suit sizing

vxt22

New in Town
Messages
6
Location
Chicago, IL
I've a few questions for all of you gentlemen.

First, how does one go about dating a waistcoat? I like the three piece suit, but sometimes a suit is a two piece and one would like to find a waistcoat to go along with the other two pieces. I'm learning how to date suits, but I don't know where to start on a waistcoat. They don't seem to have union tags as often, the material is much thinner and thus harder to tell between new and old, and I don't know what to look for in terms of style.

Also, what is the difference between an old dress shirt and a new one? I know the collar was sometimes wider, and perhaps the shirt was more likely to be silk, but other than that I'm sort of at a loss about what I should be looking for to wear with 30s and 40s suits and sportcoats.

Finally, I'm a tad confused about suit sizing. That is, I bought a suit measuring 19 along the shoulders and approx a size 42, but my tailor measured my dimensions to be 17 shoulders and 34 chest (I'm a smaller chap). However, the suit feels perfect along the shoulders and arms. I suppose I'm wondering since the chest has got to be around 44 inches, or 10 larger than mine, why it doesn't feel weird. Is chest size really an important measurement if shoulders seem to fit? What is the deal breaker in terms of size -- what is most important?

Thank you for any and all answers.
 

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