1920's (and earlier) clothing/textile resources?

[pdxvintagette]

Hello ladies,

Today I brought my van back from a house clean out/sale half filled with delicate 1920's and 30's gowns, some Edwardian pieces and fragile Victorian wear.

I was over the moon. I've never touched silk as soft as the flapper wedding dress.

Problem. (Not a bad one to have, I suppose, though...) The mid 30's is far back as my knowledge of fabrics, sewing techniques and terminology goes, and these special things are going to have to be sold. Well, MOST of them.

I would prefer not to sound like a complete moron when I go to list them. I hate it when sellers say "I'm not an expert, so just go by the pictures." I'm willing to do the research, but am having a hard time finding organized, definitive sites for this topic. I want to be able to identify and describe the type of lace, style of workmanship, and for the earlier pieces, the appropriate name and circumstance for wearing the piece.

There's BEAUTIFUL things in here. Some can be worn, others display only, still others are salvage. But oh! I didn't know there were still hidden pockets like this waiting to be found.

Going back tomorrow. We did the basement and two bedrooms today. (I don't want to tell you what had to be thrown away. ) Tomorrow is the attic. Hope I can afford it!

In the meanwhile, could any of you lovely ladies suggest resources for this era of item? I will dive right in! Thanks so much,

Julie

 

[Miss 1929]

You're hurting me!

This sounds like so much fun, just to be the one who sees it all first!

I volunteer to give you any info I can if you would like to either post or send pics. I am too poor to buy anything right now, so I can live vicariously through your estate sale!

Resources are hard - but there is the net!
Here's a page of books about costuming:
http://www.gbacg.org/costume-resources/original/bookshelf.html

And here's their page of experts! Funny, the very first one is my big sister Margo.
http://www.gbacg.org/costume-resources/original/costumer-sites.html

Maybe go to the library and ask in Periodicals if they have Delineators, Vogues, Godey's Lady's Book, magazines for research? There may be bound folios of these in the fashion section of your library too.

 

[Mojito]

Oh, that sounds to *die* for! Something out of my dreams.

A few books I refer to quite often are "Art Deco Fashion" from The Pepin Press - this is 400 solid pages of fashion illustration from French periodicals covering the period 1922 - 1929 and has a CD-rom of fabric patterns of the period.

Susan Langley's two books, "Roaring 20s Fashions" ("Jazz" Vol. 1 and "Deco" Vol.2) go year by year on women's fashions and have sections on men's and children's wear.

Ellie Laubner's "Fashions of the Roaring '20s" is another good one, as are some of the reprinted catalogues like "Everyday Fashions of the Twenties as Pictured in Sears and Other Catalogs" edited by Stella Blum.

This online archive was posted here recently - I'm in love with the 20s section: http://patrimoine.jalougallery.com/lofficiel-de-la-mode-sommairepatrimoine-13.html

I'll be very interested in what people come up with for textiles and techniques - I'd love to have a good reference work, as these are a very weak point for me and something I'd like to know more about. It's fortunate that the folks here, like Miss 1929, are so knowledgeable and generous with their information!

Please let me know when you start selling them!

 

[Lauren]

Oooh. Please let me know when you list them- especially the pre-20's. If you need any help with dating, you can PM me.
What the ladies above said is true- the library is usually the best place to go- only so much can be learned online without going to books and period resources. Another thing to do is look at very tried and true (though pricey) dealers online who know their stuff- like http://antiquedress.com and http://www.antique-fashion.com/. Compare lines and fabrics to those you own and pictures in books. Most likely you will not get the prices they're asking, in fact you'd probably be lucky with a third, but it's a good resource and some have a "museum" section thats fun to look through. And keep in mind, especially with earlier items, they often look worlds different on a dress form than flat and on a hanger. You sometimes need to see it as it is worn to get the true impression of the piece and date it correctly if you're not accustomed to period cuts. Be super careful, though- if a textile is delicate, worn, or especially has shreading, don't even try it and leave it alone! Once silk especially has started to go, there's no stopping it. For the ones that look ok, I'd highly advocate a dress form, if you have it- extra stress, body heat, and movement can be fatal to some early pieces and no matter how careful, models don't always know how to move in period garments. Be extra careful when putting it on over the shoulders.

 

[pdxvintagette]

WOW! Thank you all, that is a great start. (Miss 1929 and Mojito,) somehow I knew you'd both chime in. I'm very glad. I can't start my official research until Monday (I am working at this place the whole weekend to create goodwill and get a deal that I can actually afford.)

I've got a few pics here, any feedback is appreciate - I will supply the information I can, and then see if you ladies can help fill in the blanks! I'll post each as a separate reply, give each the attention they deserve. These are some of my favorites from yesterday.

Then, I have to get ready to face the day.

THANK YOU LADIES!

 

[pdxvintagette]

1920's Wedding Dress

This silk is SOOO soft. I think if you click on a pic, it will take you to the Album -there is a total seven pics of this dress on Photobucket.

 

[pdxvintagette]

Beautiful, but I can't figure it out...

Not sure... lace throws me off, 'cause it sure looks like 20s/30s silk chiffon to me, but the lace looks quite older. What is that technique they used in front, twisting the ends of the lace for it to dangle? Again, more pics on photobucket.

 

[pdxvintagette]

Teens 2 pc Set - Exquisite!

Black is silk taffeta. Built-in silk camisole is basically destroyed, would need to be replaced to be wearable - supports the net sleeves. Flowers have gold thread in the leaves. Fastens on the RIGHT side with snaps and hooks. There's a dozen more pics in the photobucket album.

P.S. Despite the damage to the lining, I managed to get it on there with no additional harm, due to the way it opens. It isn't going on there again, though, and I am thinking I need to store it in a box. That's it for this morning. If you want, more will come tonight.

 

[Lauren]

WOW!!!! Those are just gorgeous! What fabulous finds! I'm by no means an expert in the 20's, but I think the 2nd one is late 20's/early 30s- maybe 29-31? And the last is very late teens to early 20's (I'd say no earlier than 1919 and no later than 1922). The other gals probably know more. Really lovely pieces- the textiles back then were just to die for!

 

[pdxvintagette]

Edwardian? I presume... practically fairy princess wear.

Okay, I got excited and got takin' pics, so here is a taste of just one more. The lace needs a good deal of repair, but the dress is actually structurally sound - no shredding, and all the blood snaps (and there are a LOT) are still in tact. Lots of hooks, too. Complicated to fasten - definitely would require help -- or WAIT! Is it on the mannequin backwards. Should it fasten in front??

Have to run! Wish me luck for more goodies.
Cheers!
Julie

 

[ShortClara]

The eBay Vintage Clothing Board is amazing! A huge gaggle of knowledge there, and super nice people. Read the sticky at the top for info on how to post pictures, as most peeps will not click on links. The one thing they do not discuss is pricing, so if you're planning on putting them on eBay, search completeds in your category to get an idea of what's going for what. Your stuff is AMAZING and you should do very well. Consider reserve pricing.

http://forums.ebay.com/db1/forum.jspa?forumID=92

 

[Mojito]

Oh, those are absolutely to die for! I love the ribbon detail in particular - it's one of my favourite elements to the period.

I'd say the wedding dress probably dates to c. 1922. I probably won't be able to do it until next week, but I can scan you an image from a Butterick Quarterly from that year that shows a very similar treatment of that sort of pannier effect with the lace side panels.

 

[pdxvintagette]

Mojito, I would love to see that scan! But I will let you know if I get ahead of myself and just go ahead and list it. There is the broken lace, and there is the smudge on the front - but these aren't things I can fix, so it is one of the few items basically ready to go, once I figure out how to describe it properly!

A LITTLE more turned up today. That is the last of it - and thankfully, there was finally a good deal of 40's rayon, which I both adore, and have more knowledge with.

But I got a few last minute older things, too. You ladies will be the first to see them, and of course, the first to know when they are listed, if you wish. (You can PM me if you want to know my user name)

I'm back, so back to sorting and photographs. I'll put up some more eye candy for you ladies soon.

THANK YOU! For your help.

Cheers,
Julie