denim & trousers (some NWT): Mr. Freedom, Buzz, TCB, vtg (Levi's & Big Smith), Old Town, Jelado, MHL

[antoine p]

Hi there all, I hope you are well. I've been buying and collecting various items for a while now and woke up today feeling like it was time to pare my wardrobe and reserve down. This thread is for denim and trousers. I've got another thread for jackets, shoes and belts (link).

Hearing offers the next few days. If you're interested and want to make an offer, or have any questions or requests, please don't be shy, contact me. I've listed what I've paid, not what I expect to get back for each item. No returns. Please note these aren't tailor precise measurements, expect minor variation. If you want me to measure twice, take photos, let me know (I just ask that you respect my time)

Listing a lot of items at once, already in overload territory, so went easy on the image count and descriptions. If you're looking for more let me know.

If items aren't moving, I may list them on eBay quite soon.

I live in Chicago. Happy to ship wherever. If you live outside the US please understand shipping costs will be higher. High price items may need to be insured and have their value declared, but let's have a conversation if you want to make an offer and there's something you're worried about.

Tag sizes can be misleading, but the size range here is from W27 to W32 (measurements are posted for each item farther down in the post). Waist measurements are taken with the waistband lined up horizontally.

First off, images:
https://imgur.com/a/gcs30Fr

This is what's in stock, let's start with the newer stuff:
TCB jeans "50's jeans black," 2 sizes, new and worn once, made in Japan, limited sold out run
Buzz Rickson's "1942 chino- black William Gibson edition", 2 sizes, multiple pairs, NWT and once washed, made in Japan
Buzz Rickson's "1942 chino- beige", once washed, made in Japan
Mister Freedom "Lot 54BB", worn, made in California from new old stock cone mills denim
MHL (Margaret Howell) "Worker Jean", worn, made in Japan for the popular British designer, "creative heritage"
Old Town "High Rise Trousers- black canvas", new, made in England, "creative heritage"
Jelado "301XX", one week's wear, early 1950's 501 reproduction made in Japan

Vintage collector's corner, all made in US:
Big Smith "Buckaroo" jeans, worn, true 1950s- 1960s vintage, selvedge
Levi's 517s (bootcut), orange tab and red tab, multiple pairs in sizes 30 & 31, sizes, NWT and once washed, late 70s and early 1980s vintage
Levi's Big E Type 3 jacket, size 38, true 1960s- 1970s vintage, very dark with light wear, rare in this condition, will be expensive
*Levi's 501, tag size W31 L36, early 1980s selvedge (end of the selvedge era for the brand), light wear with visible storage marks, rare, will be somewhat expensive
*Levi's 505, tag size W30 L36, deadstock, mid 1970s "single stitch", very rare, will be very expensive
*not pictured. contact if interested

 

[antoine p]

Descriptions:
TCB jeans "50's jeans black"
Sizes W29, W30
Beloved Japanese denim brand, very much followed by global denim enthusiasts, with respected stockists around the world. The 50s jean is one of their flagship cuts, inspired by early 1950s 501s. The black 50s jean was released in the summer of last year and sold out in days, there was one more small release in the fall which also sold out. I don't believe the black 50s will go back into production.
All TCB jeans come with a factory one wash.
The waist on these begins a good amount smaller than tag size. This is common with TCB jeans, but fans of the brand maintain that they stretch to tag size. I washed the W29 pair cold and then wore them while damp to set the creases and stretch the waist (explains discrepancies in waist measurement between sizes). I didn't see either pair through but do know that TCB fans have had luck stretching the jeans out to tag size with time by just wearing. Still, if you are really a W31 who can sometimes fit a W30, I would pass on these, as you may find them uncomfortable, though YMMV. If you'd like to discuss sizing further, contact me. No returns, so let me help you get it right if you're hesitant.
These were priced at around $185 each. Not easy to find the right pair of black jeans. Make an offer.
Tagged 29: waist 14.5"/ front rise 10.75"/ back rise 14.5"/ hem 8"/ inseam 34.5"
Tagged 30: waist 13.5"/ front rise 11"/ back rise 14.5"/ hem 8.25"/ inseam 34.75"

Buzz Rickson's 1942 chinos
Beige- W30 L33
Black (William Gibson edition)- W30 L33 (one wash), W31 L34 (NWT, multiple pairs)
No introduction necessary for trusty Buzz. In the imgur folder I have included a fit photograph, I have been wearing a pair of these very regularly over the last year, these are absolutely my most worn trousers and what I grab first on my way out. I can confidently report they are holding up well, the cotton remains both attractive and pleasant to wear. Cut with a high rise and somewhat wide leg, all within reason. Excellent option for both those who are looking for a little more versatility in their trousers and are used to more contemporary, tapered cuts, and for those who are die-hard high rise wearers. Tons of great details, from the buttons to the stitching to the tags- if you're interested, let me know and I will take more photographs.
Black pairs are available from Self Edge for $255. I paid about $160 per pair using a proxy service, but had to pay fees and high shipping costs too. Make an offer.
Beige pair tagged W30 L33 (machine washed cold once): w 14.25"/ fr 13.5"/ br 16.5"/ h 9.25"/ is 32.75"
Black pair tagged W30 L33(machine washed cold once): w 14"/ fr 12.75"/ br 16"/ h 9"/ is 32"
Black pair tagged W31 L34: w 15.25"/ fr 13.25"/ br 16.5"/ h 9/25
My black pair, tagged W31 L34, one year of regular cold washing and hang drying: w 14.75"/ fr 12.75"/ br 16.25"/ h: 9"/ inseam: had these hemmed
Note: If you intend to iron these (I didn't), I'd size down from the washed measurements. Contact me if you have questions.

Mister Freedom Lot 54BB jeans
Tagged W28 (vanity sized, see measurements)
Excellent pair of 1950s inspired jeans made in California with new old stock selvedge denim from the now closed Cone Mills White Oak plant. Worn for 3 months, washed a few times, have a lot of life left. Lots of cool details, and the denim is really something special, a very attractive blue with a lot of character, there's some tasteful loom chatter etc. I would be happy to post more photographs of. I was able to get sized at the Mister Freedom store in Los Angeles, which I recommend visiting if you get the chance. Was hesitant about buying a pair of jeans tagged W28, but the sales assistant had me sizing down after trying on a few pairs. He was correct, these are vanity sized and the cone denim really does stretch. I love the cut on these, perfect balance between slim and straight.
The jeans originally came with arcs, a leather patch, and a cinchback (you can check this all out on the Mr. Freedom site here). At the time I was looking for something with a lower profile, so removed these things before the first wash. I still have the printed parts, patch, hangtag and cinch, if you'd like me to ship these with the jeans I'd be happy to. These retail at $330, I was able to buy them at $260 when Mr. Freedom ran a covid-19 promotion (otherwise these don't go on sale). Make an offer.
W 14.5"/ fr 12"/ br 15" h 8 - 8.25"/ is 32.75"

MHL Worker Jean
Tagged S
Very cool pair of high rise, wider legged denim with sewn in pockets. Flattering cut and a very appealing blue tone. Margaret Howell is difficult to find in the US but has a large following in the UK, Japan and Europe for their well made and tasteful men and women's clothing. They run lots of interesting collaborations, many with heritage brands (Barbour, Alden, Trickers, etc.). These were made in Japan with a brand called Canton Overalls who was one of the first to make jeans in the country. I wore these for about a year but have since moved on. Well loved and they show it, I find the wear attractive. These come with a cinchback, I removed it, the outline is faintly visible. I had these altered in the seat slightly, so the back rise thread color is not an exact match... don't think either of these things would be noticeable unless you were looking. If you're interested I'm happy to tell you more/ snap some photos. Product page here. Purchased for £245 (just shy of $350) in a London boutique. Make an offer.
W 14"/ fr 12.5"/ br 16.25"/ h 8.85"/ is 30.25"

Old Town High Rise trouser in black canvas
Tagged W28 (fit larger, see measurements), brand new unworn
English-made vintage inspired trousers with a super high rise in a really heavy duty black cotton canvas. Cinchback & suspender buttons. Check out the product page on the Old Town website. Ordered directly from the store, these are made to order and the wait times can be longer, I paid £138 plus shipping to the US. Make an offer.
W 15.5"/ fr 13.5"/ br 16.75"/ h 9"/ is 35.25"

Jelado 301XX
W29, worn 1 week, washed twice
A mid 1950's Levi's 501 reproduction. Very little wear, but not brand new. Shows just the beginning of wear in the top block and around the hem. Happy to go into more detail on these, if you're interested, contact me. Expensive jeans- purchased recently from Clutch Cafe in London for $355, shipping costs were $35. Make an offer, let's talk.
W 14.5"/ fr 12"/ br 16"/ h 7.75"/ is 32/5"

Big Smith Buckaroos
No tagged size. 1950s- 1960s american made selvedge denim. Paid $165 for these. Make an offer.
W 15.5"/ fr 11.75"/ br 16.5"/ h 7.6"/ is 31.75"

Levi's 517s
Orange tab: W30 L36 one wash, W31 L34 nwt
Red tab: W30 L34 one wash
Paid different prices for these. Probably averaged out to $150 per pair. Make an offer.

Levi's big E 70505 Type 3
Really special. Shows wear in the collar and just a bit in the arms, seams. Denim feels very stiff, I don't think this touched much if any water. This is more of an interest check for me, will not be parting with this for a low bid. There are big E type 3s floating around but not in this condition. Happy to send more photos and details to those contemplating serious offers.
P2P 19.5"/ sleeve 24"/ length from base of collar stand 22.9"

Thank you!

 

[antoine p]

Imgur folder updated.

 

[antoine p]

Bump!

 

[antoine p]

Bump- Buzz Rickson’s NWT black and beige chinos, Jelado 301XX size 30, some Levi’s still available. Will go into long term storage at the end of the week. Make an offer, let me know if you’re interested