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    Oversized Fits

    The Highwayman looks bad when people do the TFL/Thurston downsize (frankly Aero needs to call out Thurston for the whole "40 fits like a 44" labeling on their listings of the jacket). It's a boxy pattern by design; downsizing makes the proportions look off in every instance. If you want the...
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    RMC Buco J100 Fitcheck

    This design is made by plenty of makers which are less tricky fits, like Vanson or Bates. IMO one of those would serve you better. Japanese jackets always feel like a major gamble on anyone over 40" in chest (and sometimes even that is pushing it). Like if you wear an "L" in jackets in the...
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    Sizing advice/fit check. Versatile or not

    This looks like it fits perfectly, even if there isn't a hoodie underneath. I'd cancel the order in progress–SB is a gamble anyway–and make the most of this great jacket you have. IMO if they're responsive at communication but terrible at actually making the product (QC is part of this)...
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    Aero Highwayman Alternatives / How to get deals on used Aeros?

    The A-2 (and its naval equivalents) were designed as windbreakers for summer flights.
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    Patterning question

    This is almost never achieved in the leather jacket space. Even the guys here who have a 10/10 fitting jacket have another 10 that don't fit for each one of those. There are a few reasons for this. For one thing, leather is inherently a different material from cloth. It is both the shell and...
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    Patterning question

    Yeah after seeing OP's follow up this jacket could be quite poorly cut. I think I misunderstood as referring to a big around the shoulders sort of shape with a trimmer midsection.
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    Patterning question

    Shoulders can never be narrower than your actual shoulders (see: physics) but can be wider.
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    Patterning question

    What you're calling 'excess material across the back' is back drape. A 'clean' back without some sort of bi-swing or other construction to hide extra material will never be easy to move around in, all the more so with leather. Padding out and extending the shoulders a bit is often a way to make...
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    My New JL

    I’ve owned and sold a lot of jackets but my Johnson jacket feels spot-on when I wear it, unlike anything else. (It helps, I’m sure, that I was there with Alan measuring me up.)
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    My New JL

    I think most newer platforms strip that material (and downsize images) but our server software does neither. If there was an update that fixed that it would probably help with the bandwidth troubles as well because we have a lot of extremely big image files here.
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    Flattering trousers to go with jackets

    I used to walk by Frank’s shop all the time without realizing that’s where it was… he was still alive then too! Damn shame. Apparently his daughter and wife are amazing too and next time I’m in London I want to stop by but apparently Frank was a natural storyteller when anyone was in his shop...
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    Flattering trousers to go with jackets

    I agree with basically everything you’re saying, though I think wide hems work on Chelseas too, as long as they’re long enough to fully break so at that point they look like shoes. I think there’s a range that usually best suits a specific person’s body, so the versions of ‘low’, ‘mid’, and...
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    Schott and Coronado casual belts?

    I’m quite excited for them to come in! This particular vintage shop seemed to get a whole bunch of stuff by this tailor in roughly my size (they must have received one particular guy’s clothes); he seemed to own so much stuff that a good half of it is like new.
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    Schott and Coronado casual belts?

    Good to know. I guess this one I’ll have to buy.
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    Flattering trousers to go with jackets

    Safi is my favourite as well. Really flattering line and it’s nice to see hefty side adjusters on readymade trousers. I recently learned what is probably the real trick. Chris Despos, considered by many to be among the top living tailors today, frequently provides people fit feedback on...
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    Flattering trousers to go with jackets

    The maker Casatlantic recently came on my radar. They make quite beautiful trousers in Golden Age style, with excellent silhouettes that ought to complement workwear jackets and tailoring alike. I've gotten quite bored of denim so it's nice to see other options that can fill that space while...
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    Schott and Coronado casual belts?

    Reminds me I’ve been meaning to do that. (Relatively low priority because I usually prefer suspenders or buckles on dressy pants and I have more than enough wide ones for jeans.) But I just scored vintage pants from the 60s tailor who made Roger Moore’s clothes in The Saint, The Persuaders, and...
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    The ultimate badass jacket - what’s your pick?

    This. It's about how, not the jacket in question.
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    "Affordable" brands offering Americano / Western style?

    Check out Pike Brothers. Germany based, made in Turkey, so quite high quality but not as expensive as some of the Asian based options. Actually I'm curious to see if there are some Turkey-based options because the country produces excellent textiles so that would be a good market for someone...
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    Footwear to go with our jackets

    Most fun thing about Panerais is how they work with every kind of strap you can imagine.

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