I use the Dritz from Joann that comes in black and white and is only slightly thicker than my vintage cords. It's inexpensive, easy to find, and the white takes the dye well. I haven't tried any of the others so can't speak to those. https://www.joann.com/dritz-beading-elastic-5-yrds/prd2905.html
I'm waiting for the dies before I can even begin to modify the press. I just bought 100 fabric cover buttons off the bay for less than $10. I'll have to wait for them to come from China, but I'm in no rush. They are the loop back which is the same style as on my Akubra Campdraft. They should be...
Has it occurred to anyone else that the heightened awareness and popularity of men's hair styling may have also played a part? I grew up in the days of Brylcreem and Butchwax and was around for the advent of the "dry look" touted by many men's hair products of the time. No more greasy kid stuff...
I have an antique press that I use for rivet and snap setting for my leather work and I also have an arbor press from Harbor Freight that I've had my local machinist specialize for leather die stamping. I just ordered a set of the Osborne 16L button dies and they will go straight to the...
You're welcome. I don't have the right press so I've been using the Dritz buttons. Definitely can't achieve the perfect, finished results your press will give you.
My vintage wind/trolley buttons range from 9mm to 10mm. I've looked at the dies and would be comfortable with either the #16L or #18L. About 9mm and 10mm respectively. My modern Akubra button is at about 12mm with the fabric.
That hat is a thing of pure beauty my friend. What a great way to spend some quality father/daughter time. You might well have a future master hatter on yours hands. This is a killer idea for a new thread and I'm looking forward to seeing future postings from our aspiring hat makers. Judging...
Glad you got your machine fixed up. I looked for a 108w20 or 21, but the only ones I found were well north of a grand without the binding attachment. Then I realized it was still going to be a multi-step process even with the "correct" machine so the workaround made sense to me.
I haven't really timed it Brent. It's still a four part process for me even with the machine. I bind the majority of the hat on the machine leaving unsewn tails at the back which I join by hand stitching. I then baste the remaining binding to the hat and return it to the machine for finishing...
So true Terry. I tried for a long time to find a working (and cheaper) alternative to the sweatband machine, but I don't think there's anything else out there that will do the job. Just had to bite the bullet on that one. Now, the brim binding is a different story. I paid less than a $100 for a...
Nope. This dog won't hunt that bird Bowen. Singer made the 46-100 just for unreeded sweatbands. It's basically a heavy duty fur sewing machine with a special attachment.
Thanks Regan, The Singer base is my homage, of sorts, to the original Singer 107-1 sweatband machine which I would have preferred over the ASM. I'll make it work out, though. My aging hands and weakening eyes will thank me in the morning.
A brief pause in the hat making action to build a suitable table for the newest member of the PHC family, the ASM 1107-1 sweatband sewing machine. An old Singer cast iron treadle base paired with some weathered mahogany boards I had lying around the shop added up to the antique looking table I...
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