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  1. Mathematicus

    Freedom of Arm Movement

    Ahah, that's a good explanation! In your opinion, is there a way to fix an issue like that?
  2. Mathematicus

    Freedom of Arm Movement

    To show that collar gap is often impredictable, even in vintage and likely bespoke garments: This is Adolphe Menjou, recognized as one of well-dessed actor of golden era. Although, in this pic we can see a bad behaviour in the collar! I'm curious to know if this issue can be succesfully fixed in...
  3. Mathematicus

    1930's German suit "C&A" grey DB with blue stripes Sz. 36/38

    Did you have chances to get measurements? :)
  4. Mathematicus

    What are you wearing today??

    @Retro Spectator I know what you mean: the side carrying the buttonhole is stiffer than the other. I don't know if it's an original feature or (more probably) is the result of some slack dry-cleaner. Anyway, great look!
  5. Mathematicus

    What are you wearing today??

    Although I'm not a fan of bowties, I must say that you look very good in this outfit! May I only suggest to undo the top button? That coat seems to have a soft lapel and would look more relaxed with only center button done.
  7. Mathematicus

    Mapledoram Suits on Etsy...any experiences?

    I have a jacket made of wool and cachemire and has a very soft hand. Has a very good drape but definitely doesn't resemble vintage suiting, which is thicker and rougher.
  8. Mathematicus

    Freedom of Arm Movement

    I'm not a tailor, but in my experience the only high-cut armscye isn't always sufficient to guarantee a well fitting collar. I've seen coats with good armholes but gaping collar; also, I have a modern RTW coat bought I thing 10-11 years ago that has absolutely not high armholes (but, to be...
  9. Mathematicus

    Freedom of Arm Movement

    Another related question is the appearance of the jacket when you move. If you're able do to any movement but this causes the coat to lose its shape, it's pointless. The greatest part of issues caused by moving arms could be resolved with a correctly cut armhole; more difficult is, however...
  10. Mathematicus

    Double Breast button second row alteration

    It's a style feature that was very popular during 80s and 90s. People sometimes used to button the last row in a 6x2 double breasted suit also in mid 40s, but note that in those cases the coat had the button hole on the second row. Coats with the so called 6x1 disposition, I think, are only seen...
  11. Mathematicus

    Double Breast button second row alteration

    In most cases, I think it would be a mess. The roll of the lapel (i.e. the point in which the lapel turns and straightens) depends from the cut of the collar. If you want to alter the roll you'll likely need to alter also the collar, or it will be probably too long. I've never seen a coat after...
  13. Mathematicus

    The Difference From A 40s DB Suit Between A 30s DB

    I think the appearance of very extended and padded shoulders (typical of 40s and early 50s style) can look very good if the coat is made at the best. The couple strong shoulders - low(ish) armhole is the worst you can have, indeed. Besides, in the past often the wadding was placed only at the...
  14. Mathematicus

    FS: Vintage 1930s black lounge suit in size 36L

    Bump.
  15. Mathematicus

    1930's German suit "C&A" grey DB with blue stripes Sz. 36/38

    God, my post was swallowed by the huge amount of classified!
  16. Mathematicus

    1930's German suit "C&A" grey DB with blue stripes Sz. 36/38

    Well, I may be interested! How are measurements? What about chest/shoulder padding?
  17. Mathematicus

    FS: Vintage 1930s black lounge suit in size 36L

    New auction due to change of mind of buyer: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231724739725?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
  19. Mathematicus

    The Thread to Display Your 1940s Suits

    Very nice cloth and proportions. I think the conditions are quite bad, being not an expert I don't know if there are chances to return it to wearable status, but definitely not worth 160 $. You can even get examples in better conditions for less.
  20. Mathematicus

    Trouser break on shoes

    I too can't stand short pants with minimal or zero break. I hate especially pants that are too short in the back. I like my pants to always touch the heel or just above. To achieve this and a clean front with suitable break the only way is to make a slanted hem: shorter in front than in the back.
  21. Mathematicus

    FS: Vintage 1930s black lounge suit in size 36L

    It drapes very well, either. The fabric is also very heavy, more than most modern overcoats, too. The thickness of the cloth makes, howewer, the coat to be very fitted, slightly off for me.
  22. Mathematicus

    FS: Vintage 1930s black lounge suit in size 36L

    Bump.
  23. Mathematicus

    FS: Vintage 1930s black lounge suit in size 36L

    Bump. New auction with lowest price is up now: http://www.ebay.it/itm/-/231717650529?

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