That seam is flat and it looks "uncut" .
Maybe soak it in water and bend it /work it back and forth to bend a curve into it .
Wear it and grap the inner side of the sleeve and tug it down and forward .
Soak the whole shoulder area and work it.
I would not write it off. The CHL / Crazy Hide...
That's not a u boat jacket(wested)
It's a reefer coat and Shawn has a exact replica of a vintage original on his site .Ask him for pictures of the real one .
Someone messed up while copying the pattern of the original. The neck area has no inward curve to it .
The collar is sometimes pre stitched and then get slits cut into it while sewing the neck curve (3 layers of leather ).However the old original jacket was probably stretched and heavily worn ...
Can you post a fit pic with the collar flipped up ? And one with the jacket laying flat with the collar flipped up .I think I know what the "patternmaker" did in order to "archive" this interesting result .
To be honest the jacket rising up with the sleeves looks a lot like a wine cork remover.
If the chance of the sleeve "axis" changes that then I am baffled because that Idea was mentioned like 300 pages ago and was completely disregarded
I would put some oil on it and then spray it down with water .Put on a few sweaters or zip it up with a pillow of your back .Try to mold the shoulders in order to get the jacket to sit lower .The curve of the shoulders is too high .
I wouldn't write it off to quick .
The jacket rising when doing...
I just ordered a second cossack in black with more leeway for their pattern makers and will see if it changes anything.
My all weather halfbelt has perfect mobility . Full range of motion and the jacket doesn't rise up .
My cossack however is the complete opposite. I think the lining in my...
The thing about messing up measurements comes from rushing or misinterpreted body shapes .
They try to match the most important measurement to a existing size and pattern and then modify accordingly.
My all weather halfbelt has a 43-44 shoulder and my cossack has a 47-47 shoulder even though I...
I mean I do understand Tonys view on five star after "burning" a lot of money on them .
Five star is a bit of a roller coaster of emotions.You get excited because you have the creative freedom of replicating a very expensive jacket or inventing your own without questioning yourself about price...
Now off two try finding a another Pakistani company that can make my shirts.
Second try
New company.
More professional
Able to send samples .
Horrible pricing for prototypes ...
Gsm and fabric quality was met a bit better .
Pattern was better one way and worse in others .The gussets worked...
Overall a ok experience.I met them personally in Germany when they were here to meet existing customers while going to a trade show shortly after .
I wanted to order work shirts for the company I work for and made a special pattern with them with hidden side entry pockets and a single underarm...
Random Pakistani leather jacket company
Specs requested :
Lightweight everyday Irvin winter jacket.
Colour like aeros black sheep or darker like my old noble house/historical picture if you Google black sheep Irvin.
Maybe thin cowhide.
Artificial Fur
Copy pattern with my pictures and...
The lining tearing is pretty normal after 9 years of continues use .The leather seams rub on the lining.
The leather on the back looks weird.Can you post more pictures form further away?
I don't mean that they restrict movement.I mean that the sleeves hug more the back of your arms .
I want to understand the principals of different patterns .
I think low and high arm holes have a certain "formula" that should not be mixed together if that makes sense .
Also one more thing I noticed is the sleeve attachment to the body .Five star angles them very low like on a fabric suit jacket and other make them almost in line with the shoulder "slope" .
Doesn't that also prohibit movement?
Low armholes create space for your bicep and elbow but the low...
The curves are more elegant and the leather drapes much better .That is also one downside of their leathers they are kind of rubbery in a sense that they spring back to their original form . They also make the cuffs way too thick which flares them out .
At the end of the day their patterns and...
So I have a feeling that you set yourself up for failure if you don't let their pattern makers do their job. Don't require measurements between the arm opening and cuff . Otherwise they will just connect the dots you gave them under the premise of made to customers specifications.
Arm opening...
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