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  1. S

    Five Star Leather Jackets

    Here's a question that just occurred to me... Has anyone ever come across vintage sewing patterns for men's leather (or even non-leather) jackets?
  2. S

    Five Star Leather Jackets

    I've explored the vintage route thoroughly. I don't fit modern off-the-rack, and I REALLY don't fit the much more limited options of vintage off-the-rack. I used to be shaped like a squatty triangle, but have become a bit more square in middle age. Very short with very broad shoulders and a...
  3. S

    Five Star Leather Jackets

    Maybe. Maybe not. It's a fun project. I also spent an awful lot of time and effort building a 100% tube analog phono preamp from scratch. I spent a lot of time making a number of guitars from scratch. I spend a lot of time restoring old watches. I spent a lot of time making my 100 year old house...
  4. S

    Five Star Leather Jackets

    Well... My 4yo spent the night with grandparents last night, and needs a serious nap and some deprogramming. Simultaneously, my wife is very pregnant, and that combination has pretty much halted all forward progress as this is not something I can do solo as both engineer and subject. 4yo needs...
  5. S

    Five Star Leather Jackets

    Brilliant! Thank you! Could you give me an idea for the typical width of the side gusset panels? Is the wrapping even? As in, is the panel centered under the arm hole? @Canuck Panda My wife has resurfaced. She sews and has a theater background with the costume making chops that come with that...
  7. S

    Five Star Leather Jackets

    I'm working on my design submission, and trying to fine tune some of the details both in my head and on paper. Also now, IN paper. I noticed in Shawn's post many many pages ago re: the factory tour that the pattern makers seem to be working with large sheets of paper. I have a huge roll for my...
  8. S

    Five Star Leather Jackets

    Ah. I see.
  9. S

    Five Star Leather Jackets

    What tape manipulation are you seeing?
  10. S

    Leather under a microscope

    Glad I could make your day! It sounds like there's plenty more to come. The eyepiece phone mount showed up about an hour ago. It looks promising. I sprung for the fancy one with the multi-axis micrometer-style adjustment and remote trigger. Hopefully it ups the quality going forward. I...
  11. S

    Is this Horse Hide from 5 *?

    No promises; no hypotheses. I'm practicing radical ignorance on this one. All I can promise is that I'll do my best. I suggested/soft requested to Shawn this morning that he send me a complete set of all available leathers (rather than just the browns I initially requested), and pointed him to...
  13. S

    Leather under a microscope

    Beautiful! That looks like quite a selection! Whatever is easiest while still getting the idea across. All that matters is the communication.
  14. S

    Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

    Info about shrinking leather via heat/water: https://www.leather-dictionary.com/index.php/Shrunken_leather_-_leather_shrinkage Personally, I'd try to avoid it. It'll reduce the overall lifespan. Messes with the protein structure in ways that aren't reversible.
  15. S

    Leather under a microscope

    I knew what you meant, but even IF I'm able to see some sort of definitive difference in the fibers within the hide, that's not really going to help anyone that a) doesn't have a microscope, and b) doesn't want to cut a slice out of a jacket to try to figure out how it looks inside. Hair...
  16. S

    Leather under a microscope

    That’s my understanding. I’m trying to think back to the living horses and cows I’ve interacted with to try to remember if/how their coats differ. I don’t think I have enough experience to know one way or another though. Additionally, unless I have several samples of each, it may be difficult to...
  17. S

    Leather under a microscope

    Oh really? Gauntlet thrown, I guess. No promises, but I'll see what there is to see and share what I find! The only horse I have is shell cordovan, which I've already shared, but that's a pretty special case.
  19. S

    Leather under a microscope

    Interesting indeed! I've done a lot of work with cow, some with shearling, but that's about it. I've been digging around trying to figure out the differences between the hides from various species for this jacket, but most of what I have found reads like marketing garbage. In response to your...
  20. S

    Leather under a microscope

    PM me. You are correct. The leather from the edges will almost certainly appear different due to stretching during drying. I can also imagine there might be a difference in terms of chemical action, as the edges are thinnest (they finish "cooking" earlier than the thicker back sections), have...
  21. S

    Leather under a microscope

    I'm hoping to get a pile of swatches from Fivestar soon. When I do, I'll be looking at them under the microscope for my own curiosity's sake and as a datapoint for specifying a jacket I'd like them to make for me. Cross sections will be very easily visible in that case. Additionally, they'll be...
  22. S

    Leather under a microscope

    I believe the briefcase to be undyed full grain vegetable tanned cow hide. The mahogany colored prototype Moleskine cover is the same, just heavily oiled and with lots of intentional UV damage/coloration. The difference between the two extends beyond just coloration, but it's tough to say...
  23. S

    Leather under a microscope

    The comparison to a charred vs. well cooked hot dog was intended as a relatable analogy. Might be a bit American-centric. I'll do my best on the fifth grader level... I have zero experience with that age level, so hopefully I get close. If you're cooking something, you're using heat to...

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