My First Leather Jacket Journey

[Sree]

Hello All, this is Sree from North of Dallas, TX. Starting a new thread here.

Been lurking around here in the forum for quite some time learning all about leather jackets, and enjoying the beautiful jacket photos from fellow members. I have much more to learn. Great forum to be in, wealth of information and thank you all for sharing your thoughts and expertise.

Well, decided to take the plunge on getting myself a leather jacket. This is going to be my first one. It's mainly a business casual wear. I don't ride a bike that often. Reached out to Carrie and have requested a fit jacket, which I should be receiving today.

Thought to post my progress and contribute to the forum as well Sorry for the lengthy post.

I will post my fit jacket pictures shortly.

Here is my refinement and choice of jacket that I think I will go for:

Aero Seven with the following adjustments,
- Blackened brown color with super extra grainy FQHH vicenza - need that FQHH for sure , love that grain
- No shoulder gussets
- Four Pocket Design, angled and be original to BR style
- A subtle "V" yoke, single panel back
- Inside pocket with no zip or snap on button
- Arms stitching to line up with yoke stitching in the back ( Post 1307 page 66)
- Collar - thinking between August/highwayman. Carrie suggested August collar would be a nice option. Posting pictures below for references
- Arms - nice slim fit arms with hidden zippers in the back
- Debating between Antique Brass / Nickel hardware
- Diamond-Shaped Talon Pull on Chest Pockets
- Bell shaped Talon main zipper with horsehide toggles
- Bell shaped Talons on hand warmer pockets
- Main Zipper to start from closer to hem, don't need that high placement in my case
- Heering bone harris tweed with matching knits ( this liner choice seems to be not available anymore in the Lochcarron site.) Alternative lining, I'm eyeing on Kyle Check Tweed Light Weight Fabric with brown knits?

Here are my body measurements:
44" chest - breathed in expanded
42" relaxed - breathed out
43" Around tummy on naval
40" Waist
27.5" sleeve straight, measured to the base of my thumb
28" back( standard oxford UN-tucked shirt collar base to bottom hem)
Height = 6 feet and 2 inches (74")
Weight = 209lbs / 95 kg

August Collar


HW collar:


Liner choice: Kyle Check Tweed


Harris Tweed Liner:


The liner and knit I dig: any clues on the liner name and knit?



Bring it on folks, your thoughts and ideas!

 

[ton312]

Welcome Sree, you've certainly done your homework here with regard to what you want and I can't see any oddities in what you've proposed. I personally like the August collar very much for this pattern as well. All of those details are so personal...the fit however is where you'll probably find the most value in posting here. There's a general consensus about good fits here with tolerances for slim and relaxed fit depending on your wishes. I look forward to seeing your fit jacket and finished product!

 

[Fanch]

First of all welcome to the Lounge! You are way ahead of the game sourcing a fit jacket from Carrie. I am also 6'2" and from N Dallas but only weigh 185. I have two Aero Sheenes size 42 with 1" added to each side panel. Although the Sheene is similar to the Seven, the Sheene is based on the Cafe Racer pattern whereas the Seven is based on the Board Racer pattern. Carrie can assist you as to which pattern might best conform to your anatomy. I suppose a BR/Seven could be tweaked to fit my anatomy but maybe not?

Living in N Texas, a Harris Tweed lining will be too hot. My personal preference is olive cotton drill lining throughout that is very durable. I prefer no zippers on the hand warmer pockets that tend to abrade the back of my hands. I like antique brass hardware.

After all is said and done, proper fit is by far the most important thing, and everything else is just window dressing.

 

[OceanBreeze]

Nice jacket and you really did your homework. The lining depends on the seasons you want to wear it. Texas summer is brutal but IIRC winters in Dallas can be quite chilly. Don't you get those "Blue northers" or something that can suddenly bring on cold temps? So actually a medium weight lining might be best if you aren't going to wear it in the summer.

Also since you are so meticulous, I'll point out you can choose the label on your jacket.

 

[handymike]

Welcome to the Lounge!
If there is no kidney panel on the outside, remember to request "no kidney panel on the inside lining. Unless you want it of course.
I would also advise against adding knits to this design, it has zippered sleeves already.

 

[Sree]

Welcome Sree,

Thanks ton312, Posting my fit jacket as next post.

First of all welcome to the Lounge!

Thanks Fanch, Glad to know we are neighbors! I already tried the fit jacket and I agree with you on the need for an extra inch on the sides. Zippers on the hand warmers, thought if I put my mobile or a wallet in, it could drop down when sitting with jacket on, may be not.

Nice jacket and you really did your homework

Thanks OceanBreeze, yes occasionally we get some moderate cold temperatures, I will keep your advice on liner and label in my mind. The fit jacket came with Buco label, i liked the Rock and Roll label, and the stock Aero label is awesome too

Welcome to the Lounge!

Thanks handymike, I will add no kidney panel to the list.

 

[Sree]

Yay, the fit jacket arrived!!!



and the BR, looks like dark seal, cant tell yet, too late in the night and inside light is fooling my eyes



Here are the fit pictures:

Urgh my computer is asking for a restart...brb

 

[Sree]

so here we go, for sure the jacket is an armor!

Front:


Back:


Left Side:


Right side:


unzipped front:


Here is a model I looked up from internet, i like the way his jacket drapes

 

[Sree]

Whew, almost lost my breath! The jacket was very tight and snug fit.

What do you all think?

 

[BobJ]

Hi Sree - For my tastes, the jacket looks too small and tight on you, and the sleeves too short.

What I've learned from this forum, though, is that there are those who will tell you it is too big and that you should go down a size or two! Really!

How is it to move around in? Would it be a struggle to eat a meal, talk on a cellphone, tie your shoes?

The last picture in your first post confuses me. If you are asking about the name of that type of liner, I think it might be alpaca, which is heavier, warmer and itchier than even Harris Tweed. And speaking of Harris Tweed... I have three Harris Tweed jackets and two Harris Tweed caps. I love the stuff, but I can't imagine why ANYONE would want it for a jacket liner. It needs a liner itself. It is warm, coarse and itchy. It would stick to flannel or sweaters like velcro.

What confuses me about your question, though, is: what do you mean about the "name of the knit"? You're not talking about knit cuffs, waistband or collar... are you asking about the "weave" of the liner fabric? Sweaters are knit, tweeds, and other fabrics, are woven.

Pocket zips do scratch your hands, watches, and cell phone, if you're putting it in and taking it out a lot. I don't have zips on my handwarmer pockets, and I carry my phone, wallet, keys and other assorted things in them. I've never had a problem with anything falling out, even when I throw my jacket around. BUT... when I ordered the jacket, I asked for slightly larger pockets with deeper pocket bags.

Do a search here about Talon zippers. Many, including me, find them small, fussy to engage, and prone to early failure and need to be replaced. Mine lasted about six months. I had it replaced with a number 10 YKK by Johnson Leather, and have not had a problem since (3.5 years).

I agree with Ton about the August collar looking sharp. The Highwayman collar looks more practical if you're going to be turning it up against the wind a lot (which I do a lot here on the wet and windy Oregon coast), but the August definitely looks better.

It sounds like you're 95% done with designing a beautiful jacket! Isn't it nice to be able to put your own preferences into it and make it your very own, and one of a kind? I think it's half the fun - the other half is enjoying it for the rest of your life... until it becomes a comfortable old friend that has been through a lot of life with you, and has aged gracefully and gained character along with you.

Out of curiosity, what type of leather is the fit jacket made from?

And... beautiful house - I like the wrought iron!

Bob

 

[ProteinNerd]

Welcome!

I also like the August collar and specced my incoming Sheene with it as well. The stitching in the original pictures you posted looks like a rust colour to me?? I'm sure Carrie will be able to identify it.

Nice looking fit jacket but it looks a size or two too small for you in my opinion. I found out the hard (expensive) way that the Board Racer is pretty unforgiving through the shoulders. The high armholes and slim sleeves do affect your mobility if its a slim fit. I found sizing up 1 size for me didn't make a huge visual change but it is night and day with regards to wearability and comfort. The larger size for me is apleasure to wear, the smaller was always constricting. Perhaps you could size up 1 and add 0.5 to 1.0 to the waist? The fit jacket looks tight across your stomach and its pulling at the lower back, its too small.

Make sure you send carrie these pics and tell her the fit you are going for.

Just a quick note on the model you like the drape of. That is obviously much lighter and thinner leather also have a look at where the shoulders end on the model. The shoulder seem is past his actual shoulder. Its a very different cut to the Board Racer.

 

[ton312]

I agree with the above sentiments about the fit. I'd think at least one size up but more than likely two for a better fit. Body length looks good but the sleeves need 2" of additional length.
As PN suggested definately share these pics with Carrie and discuss what type of fit you want. I think one size up will still be a nice slim fit while two sizes will keep it relatively trim with a bit of room to layer.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Welcome. This can be hard to get right. First jackets can be like first girlfriends, you'll never forget them but they generally aren't the one you'll stay with.

The model in your photo is wearing a lambskin, soft as butter, fashion, mall-type jacket that is longer and looser. You will never get a 3oz Aero to drape that way. The jackets by Aero are for a whole different type of aesthetic. Not to mention the fact that that model in your photo probably weighs 155 pounds.

Yes, as others say you need a longer less tight version at the very least. I would recommend you buy your first jacket in goatskin or light horse hide just to have an easier fitting lighter style jacket. If you're not on a motorbike with it, you don't need all that leather. And isn't pretty warm? Can you wear thick leather there?

Over 30 years I have tried to wear 3 oz leather here often and can never really do it - to warm, too heavy, too stiff, too impractical.

 

[Sree]

what do you mean about the "name of the knit"? You're not talking about knit cuffs, waistband or collar... are you asking about the "weave" of the liner fabric? Sweaters are knit, tweeds, and other fabrics, are woven.

I meant the thread color used in the liner, now understood the differences.

Out of curiosity, what type of leather is the fit jacket made from?

Vicenza leather

And... beautiful house - I like the wrought iron!

Thank you BobJ

I will check with Carrie to see if Aero offers YKK #10 zipper instead of Talon and switch it. Noted down to remove zipper option from hand warmers and made it larger and deeper like you suggested.

Welcome!

Hey Protein, Thanks!

I found sizing up 1 size for me didn't make a huge visual change but it is night and day with regards to wearability and comfort. The larger size for me is a pleasure to wear, the smaller was always constricting

Agreed, I was thinking in the same lines too. Definitely need a size up with that added 1" on the side panels would be sufficient.

I think one size up will still be a nice slim fit while two sizes will keep it relatively trim with a bit of room to layer.

You got me thinking here ton312. Let me wear the fit jacket around the home for a while to get a better idea

 

[Sree]

I would recommend you buy your first jacket in goatskin or light horse hide

Thanks Seb Lucas, I was opting for Vicenza type leather, thought that was the light to medium weight horse hide you could get. It is indeed stiff and warm, i was sweating by the time i got done taking those fit pictures in 10 mins.

 

[ton312]

I think you were sweating due to the fit, not the weight of the hide! If you wrapped yourself up tight in a thin piece of plastic that weighs just a few ounces you'd be sweating just as hard. A little better fit with some ease will take care of that.
Aero won't swap your zip for a YKK or anything. You won't need anything heftier on Vicenza. The CXL is another story but you aren't going that route anyway.

 

[Fanch]

I concur with what others have said regarding the fit jacket being a size too small and sleeves ~2" too short. Maybe touch base to see if a size 46 BR is available. Looking at your anatomical configuration, I think maybe the Board Racer pattern for you would be preferable over the Cafe Racer. For a second jacket down the line, maybe consider a 1950's Half Belt. Anyhow you're on the right track.

 

[Fanch]

I think you were sweating due to the fit, not the weight of the hide! If you wrapped yourself up tight in a thin piece of plastic that weighs just a few ounces you'd be sweating just as hard. A little better fit with some ease will take care of that.
Aero won't swap your zip for a YKK or anything. You won't need anything heftier on Vicenza. The CXL is another story but you aren't going that route anyway.

I second what @ton312 just said. Order Vicenza rather than CXL FQHH. And everything else he said too!

 

[Sree]

I second what @ton312 just said. Order Vicenza rather than CXL FQHH

Surely Vicenza it is that I decided to order. Now, do I get an option of FQHH on Vicenza?

 

[handymike]

Vicenza is a thinner more lightweight version of FQHH from Italy. The standard Aero FQHH is from Horween in Chicago, and it is thicker.